2.9L bogging-no power when warm
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2.9L bogging-no power when warm
I really like this site-lots of good info.
Anyway I have a problem. I have 88 ranger 2.9. When it gets warmed up it will
start bogging down, smokin pretty good like its running rich. I have checked the
codes and I get KOEO 11,CM 11,KOER 41. I checked the output to the 02 sensor
and get .04 to .01. Too me this would probably be the problem if I am testing the right wires. I have a wiring diagram and pin layout for a 300 6 cyl. and I have read that the EEC is the same used in other applications. I have noticed that color codes are not the same but the pin connection should be the same. Am I in the ball park or not.
Craig
Anyway I have a problem. I have 88 ranger 2.9. When it gets warmed up it will
start bogging down, smokin pretty good like its running rich. I have checked the
codes and I get KOEO 11,CM 11,KOER 41. I checked the output to the 02 sensor
and get .04 to .01. Too me this would probably be the problem if I am testing the right wires. I have a wiring diagram and pin layout for a 300 6 cyl. and I have read that the EEC is the same used in other applications. I have noticed that color codes are not the same but the pin connection should be the same. Am I in the ball park or not.
Craig
Last edited by lefty0; Oct 24, 2006 at 09:50 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
Your in the ball park, but I'm not convinced the O2 sensor is bad.
One possible cause of a "false" KOER 41 (especially indicated when there isn't an accompanying CM 41) is to run the KOER test without preheating the O2 sensor. I think I would repeat the KOER test, being sure to run the engine well immediately before the test.
I don't know if the pin assignments for a 300 I6 would be the same as for the 2.9. The free vehicle repair guides on autozone's website contain wiring diagrams (in essence the same information as in Chiltons) which would be adequate for verifying that the pin assignment is the same or different.
Some (including some professional mechanics) are of the opinion that an O2 sensor is a maintenance item to be replaced regularly (60K miles or so). In their minds, "when in doubt, throw it out" applies to O2 sensors.
Others will diagnose until they find the problem. By the book, one of the first tests to perform with an O2 sensor code is to check the fuel pressure.
Here's what I would suggest next based on what you've given:
1) Repeat KOER test as mentioned.
2) Check for fuel in vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator (FPR gas in line=bad FPR) and check fuel pressure.
One possible cause of a "false" KOER 41 (especially indicated when there isn't an accompanying CM 41) is to run the KOER test without preheating the O2 sensor. I think I would repeat the KOER test, being sure to run the engine well immediately before the test.
I don't know if the pin assignments for a 300 I6 would be the same as for the 2.9. The free vehicle repair guides on autozone's website contain wiring diagrams (in essence the same information as in Chiltons) which would be adequate for verifying that the pin assignment is the same or different.
Some (including some professional mechanics) are of the opinion that an O2 sensor is a maintenance item to be replaced regularly (60K miles or so). In their minds, "when in doubt, throw it out" applies to O2 sensors.
Others will diagnose until they find the problem. By the book, one of the first tests to perform with an O2 sensor code is to check the fuel pressure.
Here's what I would suggest next based on what you've given:
1) Repeat KOER test as mentioned.
2) Check for fuel in vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator (FPR gas in line=bad FPR) and check fuel pressure.
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I am sure the engine was warmed up when I did the KOER test. I checked the vac line for the FPR, no gas so Thats not bleeding gas into the intake and the pressure is around 35 psi,45 psi with the vac line off.
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