I don't remember who said it but I have read posts here in this forum about how quick and easy it is to totally rewire a truck. If I remember correctly, numbers like 8 hours, 12 hours, one weekend were stated. What is the secret? I think I have spent four hours just chasing the electrical tape when it rolls out from under the truck!

I have a colored wire kit that looks very comparable to everything else on the market. I have nearly 40 hours in my wiring already and have at least 10 hours until completion at this pace. I just don't understand how you can possibly route, measure, solder and heat shrink hundreds of connections. And also loom and secure in a day or so. I got a little fancy with headlight relays etc, and I have a few creature comforts, but nothing extraordinary. A little late to ask, but what's the secret? Are there some fancy tools out there I should have bought?

'fenders

 

You're still ahead of me. Took me about 3 months of spare-time work. My big problem is I kept finding stuff I needed to replace or more bits of wire and such I needed to order... :-X23

 

There is no feasable way to rewire,shrink and all that in one day or so...unless you have a gang b-ng on it . Some folks love to blow smoke up ?. You just give your best and you will get it Fenders.

 

I'm sure that I've mentioned it before, but I'm a general electrician in a large factory, so I get lots of practice on this part. One thing that I do that saves me TONS of time and results in neat, original-looking connections is use Duesch connectors wherever I can. Soldering is obviously the best possible connection, but these connectors have got to be second place. They consist of two plastic shells with male crimp-on pins in one half and female in the other. All you have to do is crimp on the pins, slide them into the shell, and push in the lock. Viola! Just like Detriot, baby! I use them wherever a separatable connection seems logical. They also have a rubber seal so they are weatherproof. The clasp is a thumb button that can easily be pushed when the connector needs separated, nothing at all like the ******* connectora Ford uses that essentially require breaking something to get them apart. They are available in everything from two up to ten (I think) pin connectors. The only drawback is that they require a special tool to climp the pins and it's kinda pricey. I got the crimper from my previous employer and I get the pins and shells from Kirby Risk here in Lafayette, IN. A web search may turn up another supplier.

 

I did only the basics at first, but of course I add stuff all the time, so it really takes me years. Planning of course is the biggest help, but with a kit, who needs planning? Just connect and go! What kind of soldering iron are you using? The "guns" are crap. I talked to the guy at raidio shack about the heat of their guns and I have come up with this, don't listen to them, they don't know. I say get the second to the most powerful stick, and if that isn't good enough, get the hottest one. Yes, the ones that are just the cord with the metal hanging out the end of it, no switches or anything. Now, I on the other hand solder wrong. I found it quicker to put the solder on the solderer itself and then let it hang off onto the wire. Of course this is the WRONG WAY, and I'm still trying to grow a third and fourth arm so that I can hold the wires ,the solder, and solderer at the same time. Someday I will get me those arms, and then I will be able to solder it in a weekend.

 

Thanks guys, just a couple quick comments. I looked at using connectors but was unable to find stuff local that was rated for anything that draws much more juice than a radio. I may still add some of them later if I end up doing things over for repair, remodel, whatever.

Regarding soldering guns/irons: there are decent guns out there but they are not cheap. Having said that, I bought a very high output one for under $10 from Harbor Freight. It works great, burns very HOT....for now, you usually get what you pay for in the end. Hopefully I'll get done before it nukes. Don't want to buy an expensive one because I will drop it like the last three at some point.

'fenders

 

Fenders,

I think most of that stuff about wiring in 8-12 hours is a bunch
of baloney...probably PR put out by the wiring manufacturers. I may be slower than most, but it takes me that much time just to figure out the routing, where to mount the fuse panel, cut holes in the firewall, etc. The main thing is not to get in a hurry. I don't have any special tools either, except for one of those combination insulation stripper and wire cutters which does save quite a bit of time.

 

> here in Lafayette, IN.

Rage? You are in Lafayette? I am a couple hours North in Valparaiso!

- JT

 

I think what most people are talking about for the one day rewire is only the rewiring. I rewired my 55 a few months ago; it took me a day to get ALL the old wire out. The only wire I left in was a piece from the wiper motor to the switch. It took me two days to decifer the instructions and decide how I want to run the wires. Once I mounted the fuse block it only took about a day but not steady work. I got a kit from EZ wire with the wires labeled with where they go to. It had a few connectors but I pigtailed all my wires and shrink wrap them (the few that needed it)

 

I think the soldering is the big time difference. I would have saved days if I just crimped. Something I would not even consider but that is just me. Stuff corrodes way too easy in the Midwest and I have no intention of doing this over and over. Modern connectors are way better than the junk you get in the department store assortments so I am probably just wasting time again.

'fenders

 

JT - Well ain't it a small world! I'll be in Valpo Thursday morning to help eat a turkey. Oh God, you don't know any Norfleet's up there do ya? If so, keep in mind that I am ADOPTED!

 

Crimping may last better if you stuff the crimp receptacle with grease first (or just dip the bared copper wires in the grease); then crimp, and finally, wrap it in good electrical tape to keep water out and the grease in. Don't settle for cheap electrical tape: use Scotch 33 or 66 or 88 (and not the #@&% Scotch "Highland" stuff).

Same with "bullet" connectors: smear 'em with grease before plugging them together. The 1960 Ford firewall connector block is bad for corrosion and intermittent connectons; grease helps.

Soldering: I like the Weller butane iron - plenty of power for soldering heavy gauge wires, and no cord to trip over. The hot air outlet on the iron can be used for shrinking heatshrink tubing.

Don't put soldered wires into crimp connectors or terminal blocks: solder flows under pressure and the connections will loosen.

Another rule of thumb: connections should always be mechanically strong before soldering: twist the wires together, don't just lay 'em side by side and try to "glue" them together.

 

just my .02

i have totally rewired my panel, and did not incurr any problems, I used Ford connectors, and because i like to recycle, I used a harness out of a crown vic. The whole harness was stripped of the sheath, and all the pins were extracted from the connectors, I bought new pins and crimped as i went. Each circuit is color coded ( I layed out my harness using a crown vic schematic)( and in the future if a problem comes along, i could trace the wires using a crown vic schematic. I used the fuse box for a crown vic ( on the fire Wall) and have 16 circuit available. I wired for power locks ( to be hooked up later), power windows, power seats, wipers ( to be hooked up later), interior lighting, exterior lighting, heating, a/c ( to be hooked up later), electric fan,a dedicated circuit for the tilt, heater. stereo system, and still got circuits free. my total cost for rewiring, under 42.00. the harnes came from one of my cabs, that was be stripped for parts. To "lay" it out in the vehicle, i made hung wire ties where i wanted the harness to sit, and started pulling the wires after the wires were all strung, i started bundling the wires up ( and this is my **** retentivnes, I bundled the wires by using a flat nylon cord and throwin a half hitch every 2 inches) and then covering with split loom. true not a conventional harness, but I know where all the wires are going, and have made a "Electrical Service Manual" for my panel. also on that note, as i have incorprated other parts in to the project, I have pulled the sevice manual pages for each item. So in the end, my heirs ( son) or whoever has the pleasure to own this piece of art, can repair it without wondering where, or what is this part from. Sorry for the long post.

Robert

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 22-Nov-02 AT 03:06 AM (EST)]Robert

Your's is an excellent method in my opinion. Especially if you got it from a vehicle not 15+ years old. You have OEM quality wiring for cheap. I especially like it because you bothered to buy new pins and do it right. If my truck had not come with a new harness (had to repair it because I had a Chevy engine before), I believe I would have chosen your way. Finding a harness not hopelessly hacked at the few U-pull-it salvage yards around here would have been my biggest challenge.

I had to make my own schematics by combining several to match my unique stock and aftermarket accessory combination. I can say my electrical and artistic skills are better than they were last month. Well maybe not my artistic skills.

regards
'fenders

 

Hmmm... It takes me forever, but it lasts.

Use OEM harnesses and connectors if possible.

I seperate each system's wiring into it's own harness in the engine compartment.

Crimp and solder every connector, if you can't, use dielectric grease on the end of the wire then crimp.

Cover with heat shrink or good tape.

Use silicone dielectric grease (SDG) on all surfaces of every connection.

All bolt/screw together connections should be assembled with lock washers and SDG.

Use mil-spec soldering procedures... -Not melt and glue!

Use the proper wattage soldering instrument for the job.

I wrap the harness with sections of the black "Spiral Cable Wrap" Radio Shack #278-1638. I wish I could find it in bulk on a spool but all I can find locally is white. Secure the ends with tape or black nylon cable ties. Turn the end of the tie away from your hands to prevent future "cussing". Trim the ends of the ties neatly.

Use the new "Lead Free" battery post terminals and crimp/solder the wires I need into the end of them. Use a couple of SAE washers under the clamp nut to make it easier to use a wrench.

Don't use wire type fusible links, use breakers and fuses.

Use grease on the battery terminals. I use the spray white lithium for convenience. Use the Red/Green corrosion preventer felt rings under the terminals.

A trip to the junkyard will turn up wonderful OEM fuse and relay panels to use. Don't turn up your nose at GM pieces either.

Document all of your wiring and parts. I can't even remember what I did if I have slept since I did it...


Thanks for using FTE!




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