what year ball joints
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what year ball joints
Ok so I decided to change out my balljoints. When I went to autozone they gave me some balljoints that were different. So I returned them and went to pepboys and they gave me the same thing. THe only thing I can think is for some reason my truck has a diff. front end on it. This is a pic of my balljoints. It is only one lower that goes into the spindle. Pepboys and autozone had it listed that I was suppossed to have a lower and upper. Can someone identify what kind of truck and year these came off of. Thank you
http://csulb.facebook.com/album.php?...608763&l=a4f95
I can get more pictures if needed. Please help me so hopefully I can get some new balljoints before I have to put it all back together.
http://csulb.facebook.com/album.php?...608763&l=a4f95
I can get more pictures if needed. Please help me so hopefully I can get some new balljoints before I have to put it all back together.
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If you are referring to the "black" part in the foreground of your photo, that is your tie rod end not a ball joint. There are four ball joints (2 upper and 2 lower) and the spindle rotates around them as you turn the steering. The tie rods will push and pull the spindle as you steer left and right. Hope this helps and hope I didn't insult your mechanical ability.
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Perhaps they are giving you the ball joints for a four-wheel-drive model? Or for a newer ranger that does not have the twin-I beam setup that you have...
As far as I know, ranger ball joints on the I-beams are pretty much cut and dry on the two wheel drive ones... BUT also if you don't replace the uppers and lowers at the same time, you are a fool. You have to take one out to replace the other and once you take one out you really don't want to reinstall it.
What is wrong about the ball joints they are giving you? too big? too small? wrong shape?
As far as I know, ranger ball joints on the I-beams are pretty much cut and dry on the two wheel drive ones... BUT also if you don't replace the uppers and lowers at the same time, you are a fool. You have to take one out to replace the other and once you take one out you really don't want to reinstall it.
What is wrong about the ball joints they are giving you? too big? too small? wrong shape?
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oh man im an idiot. I was confusing the ball joints with the tie rod ends. Wow i feel stupid. And I was so set on finding the right ones. Well since im already on a roll might as well ask some more stupid ques. When the balljoints go bad can you physically tell by them moving around. I cant figure out whats wrong with my truck but when Im driving it feels like something in either the susp. or the steering is loose. I feel it when going over bumps. also I just changed my clutch radiator fan to an electric fan that was just sitting in the garage from my bros mazda mx3. As of right now I have it on a switch but is there anyway to set it up to thermostat that reads off the air around or to my engine temp sensor. Thanks for all the info.
Last edited by prerunner; Oct 21, 2006 at 09:37 PM.
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Yes it can be done, but in all honesty you're better off with the old-style clutch fan.
Do this.. jack up the suspension under the I-beam... pry up on the bottom of the tire and watch for play in the ball joints (look for movement between the knuckle and the I beam). If there is play replace the ball joints.
Grab the tire at the 3 and 6 O'clock positions and check for play in the tie rods.
Also make sure there is no wheel bearing play (look for movement between the knuckle and the brake rotor).
If all that is good replace your radius arm bushings. There is a rod going from the frame to the I beam. At the rear of this rod is a bushing with a large nut (and a shield on the passenger side one). It is very difficult to tell if these are bad without removal and if you're removing them then you might as well put new ones in their place. I can almost guarantee that upon disassembly, it'll come apart in pieces. This accounts for about 90% of steering problems on these trucks.
Good luck
Do this.. jack up the suspension under the I-beam... pry up on the bottom of the tire and watch for play in the ball joints (look for movement between the knuckle and the I beam). If there is play replace the ball joints.
Grab the tire at the 3 and 6 O'clock positions and check for play in the tie rods.
Also make sure there is no wheel bearing play (look for movement between the knuckle and the brake rotor).
If all that is good replace your radius arm bushings. There is a rod going from the frame to the I beam. At the rear of this rod is a bushing with a large nut (and a shield on the passenger side one). It is very difficult to tell if these are bad without removal and if you're removing them then you might as well put new ones in their place. I can almost guarantee that upon disassembly, it'll come apart in pieces. This accounts for about 90% of steering problems on these trucks.
Good luck
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To check your ball joints have your tire mounted on the truck, leave the tire jacked up about 3 inches off the floor. get a metal pry bar or crow bar, or a 3-4 foot 2x4 and put it under the tire. Have someone pry up and down on the pry bar lifting the tire and letting it down. You watch the ball joints for ANY movement. If they move they are worn and should be replaced. Always remember.... the only stupid questions are the ones you DON'T ask. 
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the only reason I did the electric fan was because I had the problem with my truck not heating up enough. This solved that problem. I think it is the radius arm bushings. One last ques and I will stop bugging you. Sorry I have been trying for about 2 years to get my truck to just run right. The guy before me destroyed it. On my air box I have the two vacuum hose connectors coming out of it. One of the connectors has a hose on it that goes to the EGR valve hose and eventually to the intake manifold but where is the other hose suppossed to go. Would that mess up my vacuum pressure since its letting air be sucked in that connector. Should I clog the hole.
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From: Dexter, MI
The other vacuum line goes to the airbox intake heater. Those hoses connect to a air temp sensor in the airbox. When intake air is cold, the sensor allows a vacuum motor to open a door that draws heated air that comes off the exhaust manifold. If the intake air is warm enough, the door only allows ambient air to be drawn into the airbox and on into the engine.