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So i know this is a generalized question and that there are a wide range of variables but in your opinions what is a better running engine FE's or 385's? The reason i ask is that i have a 75 360 and i am currently building a 77 460 and didn't know whether i should hold on to the 360 when the 460 goes in or just get rid of it?
The 390 weighs less. Actually, about 100lbs less, with the stock iron intake. Get rid of that, and you're down quite a bit from 460 weight.
FE's are... easier, IMO anyway. Like I've said before, there is no bad FE head (except FT heads, but that's not FE). Equally, there is no bad FE block. There is no weak FE crank. There's just so many good stock components on an FE, for which an aftermarket alternative doesn't even need to be considered in 99% of the builds. FE's can get mileage much better than a 385 series motor ever dreamed, when properly tuned anyway.
Of course, there is no replacement for displacement, and the 385 series has that in abundance. Especially with stroker cranks. But there again, like anything good in this life, it's going to cost you.
I think the FE is a good medium for anyone wanting something more than an anemic smallblock, and some thing more sane than a 385 series.
Depends on how much other stuff you have for a conversion. I have not made a study of converting from one family to another, but just the thought keeps my FE powered truck FE powered. By the same token, if the work to mount a 460 was already done, I'd just keep that set-up. They both run great, can be built and tuned to your intended useage.
So I guess the answer is that I would find another home for the extra engine.
they're both good.
i did the 460 swap in my 76 250. a well built 390 doesn't give up much to a similarly built 460.
Well I will respectfully Disagree here ! Dont get me wrong..I love my 395"er in my 70 F250CS... BUT... Dollar for Dollar on an even build..with the same parts, The 460 is BY Far cheaper to build than the FE..and alot stronger!
The FE without block Mods will want to split in half at about 600hp level..the 460 is good for about 800hp on a stock bottom end on the block..
Your looking at about 5K min.. to get 500hp out of an FE/ and about 3K to get over 500hp out of a 460, and 2K of that is going to aluminum heads..and the 460 is just loafing to make 500+ hp.. 5400rpm and 565lbs of TQ @ 4400...JMO...
Growing up in Lima Bath school district where the 385 series were all built, I can say the only 385 that interests me is the 494 Can Am engine. in the canted valve heads, everything was poor until the aluminum CJ heads came out. At that time, it was cheaper to build a 500 HP 385 then a 500 HP 385. Since you now have 3 manufacturers of aluminum blocks and heads, stock stuff has dropped in price. I doubt you could build a true 500 HP 385 for $3,000, still a 400 HP 390 would be at least as cheap if not less, and any extra to come up with a 500 HP edelbrock headed 427 would be recouped when getting rid of it. You can blow up the 427 stuff and someone will buy it. blow a 385 and you have a big paperweight that nobody wants except for the heads. A 440 HP 390 with weight savings of aluminum heads and intake would run well against a 500 HP 385.
You can get whole 460 arounf here for about $100-$150..we have more 460's than FE's here.... And dont blow smoke up my A$$ and tell me parts are the same price for FE's..I have both and there not!
And kurt your right..I said without any block Mods...if your going to make more than 500+ hp..I suggest the 4 bolt main, and thats about $400 in Machine work and $320 for the Billit caps..and then the line bore...and then you should stud the block for the Heads etc..and the list goes on.. But its only money..
It is far cheaper to build a block that can hold the HP to begin with.. "IF" your trying to make a bunch of HP.Stock for stock,Or buy Like the Shelby, or the Genesis, Or the one I like the Pond block..But again thats money to make Big HP.. JMO..
RJ
Last edited by RapidRuss; Oct 22, 2006 at 02:58 PM.
No smoke up your butt here! Your $150 dollar block plus $400 in machine work, and $320 for your main caps and your at $870 before you line bore it. I recently saw a side oiler iron block, steel crank and lowriser heads go for $1200 on ebay. Prices are down with the aluminum aftermarket stuff that can be had for little more than cherry orriginals did 10 years ago. Put some Edelbrock medium risers, a crab intake and a pair of old 660 center squirters from a swap meet and you'll be above your 500 HP number for not much more, plus you can still resale the stuff if you gernaded both.
I checked out the Robert Pond block, and while a nice looking piece, it's not nearly as rugged and well built as the Carrol Shelby block, but what else would you expect from Arias...... They've been in the race block buiseness way longer than Genesis, Pond, or Dove. My second choice would be hard between the Genesis or the Pond, but for a supercharger high output cammer, the others aren't in the same league, but then again they cost alot less than th Shelby.... Don't know what Robert is selling his for, or even if he has done any cammer blocks yet.
Well every now and then you run across a good buy..but for a majority of us "no me" I have no luck..LOL.. I have to apy thru the nose for everything... And your right as far as the Shelby being ontop of the pecking order..But with that said.. If I remember correctly? Old Brain..the Pond block can be taken out further than the Shelby and the genesis... and Roberts getting around $3000 to $3500 for his..depending on who you deal with for the finish machining.. But there good for 1500hp "not that I would take one out that far" but its nice to have a safety margin built in..
I have been on a slow build with a D1 block.. I have at my cuz's shop.. But I think if the New furnace doesnt cost anymore than what I have put into it about 3K...I'll pick up another IDT Premier block and start again!! LOL..
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