TFI Troubleshooting Help
Not getting spark to the distributor. Get solid lite on (+) terminal of coil when key on. Get nothing on (-) terminal of coil when cranking.
Is there any other tests I can do the narrow the problem down to the TFI ?
What else should I test before I swap out the TFI?
What type of screws are used to hold the TFI onto the side of the distributor ?
Is Heat Sink Compound the same as Silicone or Gasket material ?
Is there any other tests I can do the narrow the problem down to the TFI ?
What else should I test before I swap out the TFI?
What type of screws are used to hold the TFI onto the side of the distributor ?
Is Heat Sink Compound the same as Silicone or Gasket material ?
Gerold,
It sounds like your chasing your tail. I went back and read your previous posts on the subject.
First: Even though you've cleared the computers memory of codes by disconnecting the battery for an extented period, you still need to run the key on test to pull any active codes. Hopefully you have a Hanes, Chiltons, or equivilent manual. They both should have in the engine electrical troubleshooting a procedure for jumping the test connectors so that you can use the CEL to pull the active codes.
Second: Get some dielectric cleaner and dielectric gel. Clean the TFI and coil harness connecters completely, as well as the terminals that they plug into. Let then dry for serveral minutes. Then apply the gel prior to reconnecting.
Third: I know you've already done this, but doing it again never hurts with fresh eyes. Inspect the wiring harness, coil, TFI module, knock sensor, and anthing else electrical in the area around the water pump you replaced for damage. A condtinuity test of the harness between the coil and the TFI would be a good idea as well.
Last: Before replacing the TFI module, remove it and take it to a shop that can test it. Most chain parts stores have the equipment for this these days.
Currently I'm not sure what head type the mounting screws are. Probably either a Torx or Allen. Possibly the security sub-type(pin in center).
Heat sink compound is not standard silicone or gasket material. You'll have a better chance of finding it at an electronics parts store then an auto parts store. It's commonly used with mounting things like transformers in head sensetive applications.
It sounds like your chasing your tail. I went back and read your previous posts on the subject.
First: Even though you've cleared the computers memory of codes by disconnecting the battery for an extented period, you still need to run the key on test to pull any active codes. Hopefully you have a Hanes, Chiltons, or equivilent manual. They both should have in the engine electrical troubleshooting a procedure for jumping the test connectors so that you can use the CEL to pull the active codes.
Second: Get some dielectric cleaner and dielectric gel. Clean the TFI and coil harness connecters completely, as well as the terminals that they plug into. Let then dry for serveral minutes. Then apply the gel prior to reconnecting.
Third: I know you've already done this, but doing it again never hurts with fresh eyes. Inspect the wiring harness, coil, TFI module, knock sensor, and anthing else electrical in the area around the water pump you replaced for damage. A condtinuity test of the harness between the coil and the TFI would be a good idea as well.
Last: Before replacing the TFI module, remove it and take it to a shop that can test it. Most chain parts stores have the equipment for this these days.
Currently I'm not sure what head type the mounting screws are. Probably either a Torx or Allen. Possibly the security sub-type(pin in center).
Heat sink compound is not standard silicone or gasket material. You'll have a better chance of finding it at an electronics parts store then an auto parts store. It's commonly used with mounting things like transformers in head sensetive applications.
I bought a small handheld socket made specially for removing the two screws that secure the module to the side of the distributor. Cant remember exactly where but pretty sure it was from a chain parts store. It has a plastic ****/handle on it .
You said in one post that the truck ran fine until you changed the water pump. You said that you used a butane torch around the TFI module.
The butane torch most likely overheated the TFI Module and it needs be replaced.
The butane torch most likely overheated the TFI Module and it needs be replaced.
TFI Screws
Originally Posted by mississauga
I bought a small handheld socket made specially for removing the two screws that secure the module to the side of the distributor. Cant remember exactly where but pretty sure it was from a chain parts store. It has a plastic ****/handle on it .
The weather here in Edmonton finnaly cleared so I'm going to try and get this fixed today.
Thanks,
Gerold.
Welding on your car without disconnecting your battery cam definitlely damage your ignition components.
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UPDATE: I was able to locate the correct TFI tool to remove the screws. I installed the new TFI and she fired up right away. Except there was a loud squealling coming from under the hood. I took a quick look and found the Air Supply Pump not turning. I shut her down, removed the belt and tried to turn the pump by hand. It turned but it was making evil noises.
I'll be starting a new thread so be on the lookout.
Thanks to "subford", "SR_Crewchief" and "mississauga", for the help. It turned out to be the TFI after all.
Gerold
Edmonton, Alberta
I'll be starting a new thread so be on the lookout.
Thanks to "subford", "SR_Crewchief" and "mississauga", for the help. It turned out to be the TFI after all.
Gerold
Edmonton, Alberta
I have always had to remove the distributor to get at the back screw for ignition module that is mounted on the distributor . If that is your case replace the o-ring on the distributor before re installing and check the timing. No matter how well I have marked it is has always needed a slight adjustment . Removing the module requires a slight wiggle and pull down motion to get it off. Nothing really special there. If the distributor has been in there for a long time the existing o-ring can cause removal to be a little stubborn.
I just made my post and saw yours. Glad you got it sorted out . LMC truck sells air pumps if you need one. Thanks for posting the results. I always , and I am sure the other members like to know the end result.
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