I know this is a dead horse, but since I can't find the forum search function....

Is it truly worth the upgrade to Pertronix ignition? I mean does anyone have any real, hard, personal numbers like I get 1-1000 more miles to the gallon...I can now tow broken down tractor trailers up a 50% grade because of the horsepower improvement....

A Pertronix system is somewhere between $80-$100. A set of points and condensor is $10. Points last me aroun 15k, 8 sets of points is 120k, probably a lot more miles than I'm ever going to really put on, and I guess unlike most people I have the 5 minutes it takes to change points.

I have a 6 volt positive ground system, it starts fine, faster than my 89 F150 EFI 4.9l, runs fine, and I have heard a lot of horror stories about the 6V + ground modules from Pertronix, which they might have fixed by now. I've read all kinds of ignition facts from the web, read about dual points, bounce, float....

How high is high rpms to induce float? I'm probably never going to get above 4000 rpm, is that high enough to have float?

Are Mallorys worth it? I've read a SB Chevy Mallory can be machined to fit? What has to be done to it? They seem to be had for cheap...

 

I suppose it wouldnt be too much to ask what its going into?

 

It's going into a Flathead V-8, although what it's going into shouldn't really make all that much difference will it? I have probably about 20 points engines (trucks, cars, farm tractors, equipment) that all use points. I'm wondering what a "real" difference it makes besides the toy factor...

 

What its going into makes a big difference IMO, not only RPM's but what the other choices are.
A stock flatty wont give you point bounce, it'll blow first. Most 8BA distributor problems are worn bushings, soft diaphram, corrosion on the plate, and weak springs, no electronics will help that.

Ive also heard about the Petronix problem and have no recent info.

I run 6V on 2 vehicles and use 60-70's style Capacitive Discharge ignitions on them. They show up fairly regularly on EBay; Ive paid $15-25 for several including 12V for some Brand X muscle cars.
Some of the better ones are adaptable to 6/12V and +/- ground, others are single purpose.
They all use your original points but at only a few milliamps switching; point life is until the rubbing block wears down too far to adjust. Add a HV coil and you will have as good a system as the latest, just less trouble prone. Ive never blown one of the oldies.
Switching your vehicle to a negative ground if necessary is simple and painless.

Also for a 8BA:
SBC, not hard to machine but looks ugly. Needs recurving.

HEI, same as above for 12V

Chrysler 70's-87? electronic, really nice unit and bullet proof. 12V and still requires machining and recurving. Ive used them on several customer flathead builds.

Mallory dual point. Use as is or adapt the Chrysler internals.


Best flatty plugs? NGK B6L