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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

New Paint job

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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 10:27 AM
  #16  
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From: North of Normal
Originally Posted by ctran
Soon as I can figure out how to put pictures in here.............?
It's easy you can set up your own gallery it will give you step by step instructions,that way everyone who clicks your gallery will see it.
Or you can click reply and scroll down to where you see manage attachments and you can upload from there.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 11:09 AM
  #17  
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"You may not post attachments" at the bottom of reply.

No options on My gallery.

I must not have the privileges for either.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 01:35 PM
  #18  
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The 1988 F150 4.9L

Picture Gallery [img]../user_gallery/tmp/131/131841.80.80[/img] The 1988 F150 4.9L
 
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 01:12 AM
  #19  
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I think you need at least 20-25 posts before certain options become available to you.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 06:11 PM
  #20  
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My buddy works in a body shop, painted my truck with Dupont paint, cost me about $700-$800 for materials, and he said wait a month before waxing. Not much longer.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 07:52 AM
  #21  
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That's closer to what the shop said. But you have to think.......if you are in the business of painting cars, why tell you how to increase the life of the job? Then on the other hand it would be better advertisement.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 03:36 PM
  #22  
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I decided to use a good sealant first because I don’t think they did. Doing some research on the “Net” found a bunch of controversy (Bull Crap) on what to do and some good stuff. Couple of days I tried some “Blitz acrylic sealer”. Easy to put on and easy off. Beautiful shine…smooth as clean glass.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 12:59 AM
  #23  
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dont worry about it, its paint on a TRUCK.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 09:32 PM
  #24  
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i would spend the extra.. on clear coat.. i paint cars... and clear coat gives it that.. really shiney.. pop... and clear coat.. protects the paint from scratches and such.. when clear coat gets scratched you just buff it and its gone.. scratch paint.. and you gotta repaint.. it..
 
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 09:33 PM
  #25  
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oh and another good idea is .. chip guard... you can paint it to match and its like a rhino liner but way cheaper and you put it on rockers and the bottum of your truck to keep rocks from chippin paint ... just another suggestion
 
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 09:40 PM
  #26  
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IMO, clearcoat is only really worth it if all of the time and effort that should have been put into the body work was put into the body work.

Clear coat makes a good paint job unbelievable, but makes a mediocre one horrible. All of the imperfections pop right out and there's no hiding them.

Justin
 
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 09:43 PM
  #27  
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that is true.. but i was just throwing my 2 cents in there.. guessing that the time was taken on the body work... but also .. must take into the consideration of colors... clear doesnt always make mediocre paint jobs look bad.. sometimes depends on paint.. like black shows .. everything... where.. like white... doesnt
 
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 03:46 PM
  #28  
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it also matters when you sand the clearcoat. Its always best to do it as soon as possible when the paint is still shrinking. For example, if you sand it with 600 grit early on, by the time it has totally shrank, it looks like you sanded it with 1200 grit. I Put the clearcoat on my recent paint job and I would not do it any other way. If its done right, I think it makes the paint look so much better.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 09:42 PM
  #29  
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this is true... but if your truck had body work done to it right... be better to go with like tri-zac 4000 grit.... make that sucker shine... like a diamond
 
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 08:11 AM
  #30  
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oh that is definitly true, i was just giving an example of how the paint shrinks, I actually used 2500 grit on my clear, It the shrank it looks great.
 
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