Hypermax 500 Hg./ Arp Studs
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Hypermax 500 Hg./ Arp Studs
Got My Truck Back From The Shop After Having The Hypermax 500 Head Gaskets, AND The Arp Head Studs Done. Towed My 25ft Warrior Toy Haulerback From The Lake (2500ft Elev) To Home(6500ft Elev). Towed In Tow Mode On My Sct Excal. Truck Ran Absolutely Great, And No Coolant Loss! Can't Wait To Put My Water/meth Inj. Back On.
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
You'll either have to take the cab off or the motor out the front to do studs. you MIGHT be able to do it with factory bolts but it's a major pain and torquing is almost impossible to do correctly, but the factory bolts can be done this way.
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Sorry for not replying sooner. Havent been on in a couple days. But yes they did pull the cab. The work was done by an independent shop, that specializes in diesels, although this was the first hg job on a 6.0L for them. They charged 30 hours of labor which was about 2k. Overall very satisfied with the job!
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From: fresno, oh
why do some people say you can do it with the cab on and others say you cant?
how hard is it to take the cab off to fix the gaskets? what all has to be removed to pull the cab and how high do you have to lift the cab to do it?
i'd like to konw also if anyone has any instructions on how to go about doing this because i need to fix my gaskets because everytime i pull the gooseneck it spits almost a quart of water out!!!
if you replace everything with stock parts (i.e. stock bolts and gaskets) is that as good as studs?
thanks
how hard is it to take the cab off to fix the gaskets? what all has to be removed to pull the cab and how high do you have to lift the cab to do it?
i'd like to konw also if anyone has any instructions on how to go about doing this because i need to fix my gaskets because everytime i pull the gooseneck it spits almost a quart of water out!!!
if you replace everything with stock parts (i.e. stock bolts and gaskets) is that as good as studs?
thanks
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From: Alberta
I have the arp studs and the hypermax 500 head gasket as well. Works great together and no problems so far.
New problem is that i have a surging problem but i found the cause to that. Oil leak under the turbo. The oil is leaking out and that is where im losing my pressure. WIll be fixed on monday!
New problem is that i have a surging problem but i found the cause to that. Oil leak under the turbo. The oil is leaking out and that is where im losing my pressure. WIll be fixed on monday!
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
Lariat Stroker---I think it's possible to do the stock head bolts with the cab on--it's just extremely difficult. Tech's please correct me if I'm wrong. It's just a lot easier to lift the cab and I would think a dealership would all the correct tools to do this. Studs are, I think, slightly longer, and clearance to get them in isn't there. It is possible to get the motor out without lifting the cab, but you have to disassemble the front of the motor and it takes longer. I have done this and it is quite time consuming and you have lots of details to take care of. I can't say for sure if the new bolts are as good as studs, but I know a few people running the stock gaskets/bolts with nitrous and have no problems puking. Ford, I think, recently changed the specification for what they consider maximum head warpage from .004 to .002. They also say don't mill the heads, but we do it anyway with great success....as long as it's not over .010. Any more and we look for a new head. They don't seem to warp again after the first time and remachining.
Last edited by npccpartsman; Oct 22, 2006 at 09:47 PM.
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From: Alberta
From the experience that I know of so far, the heads cannot be machiened more than .005. Thats about the thickness of a piece of paper. The ARP head studs are a little longer but that dosent matter when putting them in. The problem is tightening the studs. Expecially on the passenger side. They can do it with the cab on its just a pain to get to those studs with a wrench. They lifted my cab off a little for clerance. Not completely off. Its all you need.
Also, its a pain to install those H500 head gaskets from what they said but worth it.
Also, its a pain to install those H500 head gaskets from what they said but worth it.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Hendersonville, NC
Originally Posted by npccpartsman
Lariat Stroker---I think it's possible to do the stock head bolts with the cab on--it's just extremely difficult. Tech's please correct me if I'm wrong. It's just a lot easier to lift the cab and I would think a dealership would all the correct tools to do this. Studs are, I think, slightly longer, and clearance to get them in isn't there. It is possible to get the motor out without lifting the cab, but you have to disassemble the front of the motor and it takes longer. I have done this and it is quite time consuming and you have lots of details to take care of. I can't say for sure if the new bolts are as good as studs, but I know a few people running the stock gaskets/bolts with nitrous and have no problems puking. Ford, I think, recently changed the specification for what they consider maximum head warpage from .004 to .002. They also say don't mill the heads, but we do it anyway with great success....as long as it's not over .010. Any more and we look for a new head. They don't seem to warp again after the first time and remachining.
More than about .010 as Tim describes gets too close to the maximum allowed valve lash tolerance on the lifters, and runs the risk of valves not shutting totally. The actual amount of material that can be safely removed depends upon the actual thickness of the head....Ford specifies 3.740 min thickness....anything below 3.66-3.65 is getting a little too close.
Last edited by PSD 60L Fx4; Oct 23, 2006 at 06:32 PM.
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PSD 60L Fx4
HEY MATT. DROP ME AN IM ABOUT YOUR CUSTOM TUNING. I'M ON YIM RIGHT NOW. THE SHOP THAT DID MY WORK HAS A DYNO, I'M INTEREST IN TALKING TO YOU ABOUT THE TUNES. i WOULD LIKE TO DO A DYNO RUN AFTER I PUT MY WATER/METH SYSTEM BACK ON. LATER.....MARK
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