the passenger door on my 55 F100 has a gap at the top between the door seal and door of about 1/4". I have heard of bending doors to fix ailments like this but never attempted. All the other seams look good and consistant. I replaced the lower hinge but the problem was there before. What is the recommended method to bend the top of the door frame toward the cab so when the door is closed I get a proper seal. All the seals are in excellent condition.

 

Joe-

As I recall the shop manual gives an illustration on how to bend the doors.

 

Thanks Larry,
Don't have a manual yet. Thought maybe someone else may have run across the same problem and had creative way to correct without destroying the door/glass,etc.

 

Joe-
I have sat on the seat with the door open, putting my foot against the area where the window frame and door join at the rear and pulled in on the top of the door/window frame to move it inward. Not a very good method for control however and it was done with the glass removed (rolled all the way down would probably work also). The manual notes a straight edge "c" clamped with spacers for better control on bending. Not a very good explanation on my part but I have never been known for my literary skills. You probably should get a manual. It at least would give you a starting point.

 

Joe -

The Shop Manual does show a pretty good illustration with instructions for that bending operation.

Is the door flush with the cab on the outside? If it isn't, then the gap is explained and bending the door would be required. If it is already flush, you will create a step between door and cab by doing that.

I had a huge gap for the door weatherstrip to close at the upper edge of my passenger door...and the door shape was flush. I used a different kind of weatherstrip to bridge the gap and that worked for me. I found the weatherstrip at Pep Boys. Here's a pic: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=90700&width=0

Good luck.

 

Thanks guys,
The door is in line as far as the gap from standing outside looking at the door is concerned. But, when you lean in behind the cab and look along the door from the back you can see it is out a bit maybe half inch or so at the top only. Don't have a problem with some simple grunt force but wanted to through it out to see what others have done to correct the problem. Thought of taking a 2x4 and using it stuck down from the top through the window to pry the top of the frame in, thinking maybe I could control the amount of bend a little better?

 

First, what condition is the weather stripping in? Is the outside face of the door flush with the outside of the door frame at the top? If it is, then the weatherstipping is probably shot and needs replacement. If the face of the door is standing out from the frame, then make sure the hinges won't adjust it out. Loosen the bolts on the cab side of the top hinge and push in on the top of the door with the door closed. Does that close the gap and flush the face of the door? If so, then you know what's needed. If it flushes it with the front edge and not the rear edge then loosen the latch striker and tap it in slightly and recheck. After adjusting the top hinge and retightening it, loosen the bottom one and retighten to relieve any binding or twist. Only if the door face fits flush with the cab face everywhere EXCEPT above the bottom of the window opening should you adjust the door by torquing it! To torque the top in, roll the window all the way down, open the door and stand on the running board facing the inside of the door. Now simply bring your knee up against the inside of the door as high as you can get it, grab the top of the door frame with both hands and give it a good yank! Check the effect, repeat as necessary. if it gets too tight, place a 2x4 between the frame and the door at the top and push the door against it. When the face of the door fits flush all around, adjust the latch for solid latching with a firm push closed. Now check the weatherstripping by closing a sheet of writing paper in the door and try to pull it out. It should be at least difficult to pull out without ripping all the way around the door. If it pulls out easily replace the weatherstripping.

Edit: I WOULD NOT use a 2x4 as a pry as you suggested as it would likely bow the window frame in at the point of contact. Just work up to how much force is required, it's not that difficult and is reversible.

 

I had to bend mine. What i did,
place a block of wood between door and cab
heat inner door jam in v shape large end of V toward inside
push on top of door lightly and cool heated area to shrink the larger part of V
test and repeat as needed
this is how I did mine it worked very well
Don't over heat, slightly red is how I did it.

After reading your last post (while I was typing) dissregaurd my post, if the outside is flush you have a different problem

 

everything is in great shape as far as the weather stripping and the door adjustment but the top gap is still there. Will bend her over my knee when I get home, that should do the trick, and I will work on the truck too. LOL...Thanks guys...

 

Years ago when all door windows had frames it was a common adjustment method. If you can't do it with your knee, place a short 2x4 in the door at the beltline and push from the outside. Every bodyman had a stack of 2x4s along with his baseball bat at the ready by his toolbox, they were considered essential tools! I've even seen Boyd's boys adjust them this way on TV.

 

I don't recommend doing it at all. I read the manual and heard the same info from friends etc. I have the exact same gap your talking about. I did the 2X4 routine, etc. Now I have crack in the metal just at the bottom of the window about the door mechanisms. I don't know if I did something wrong or what. I didn't put much pressure on it, but the pressure from bending it and the weatherstripping pressure shutting the door created the stress crack in my door. I wish I had left it alone.

 

Well, went out and gave it a shot with my knee. Now I am not twenty anymore so needlees to say the only thing I bent was my knee and it was already out of whack. Will leave well enough alone for now.

 

I think that's good advice. However, I'm going to tell everyone your door doesn't line up. Ha ha ha ... Just kidding. Take care of that knee. Knee surgery is no joke.

 

Joe, I had the same condition. I tried the 2x4 in the door's beltline and pushing in on the top of the window frame. It worked somewhat but not enough. The new door rubber fixed it. The rubber has a big thick point at the bottom of the door directly below the latch. When I close the door, the bottom rubber hits first, then the latch, then the top corner. So the rubber causes the door to flex a little with the latch as a fulcrum like a teeter-tottor. I know that with unlimited time, effort and money, these doors can be made to fit perfectly. But, using the rubber as a short cut was alright for me. Henry produced these trucks with illfitting doors and making them perfect like cars is sometimes next to impossible. Good luck, Jag

 

Nothing is impossible as long as there is a big enough hammer (and/or gas in the tanks for the torch)!
I know the condition, I have a case of Kneesles myself. They don't get any better either, altho my Dr. seems to think they can be improved. Got my 60,000 mile checkup yesterday and everything else was up to specs, so he wants me to see an ortho/knee specialist.