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its a 1999 ranger with 3.0l 5 spd 2wd.the blower motor does not turn on, the fuse and the relay are both good but still getting no power to the motor itself. the fuse on this truck is also for the airbag module, i was wondering if a bad module could cause the blower motor not to work cause the airbag light is on and the driver said the fan stopped blowing about the same time the light came on. the A/C is very important down here in San Antonio,TX especially since we're working in the sun all day and lately its been between 90-100% humidity.
Last edited by toomanyrangers; Oct 18, 2006 at 11:33 AM.
Condidering I spent a month on the exact issue you have, my solution was the following:
Replace the Blower Relay fuse in that little box just under the passenger side headlight. Just follow the wires, you will find the box. Open it up and replace it. I will say, with about 99% confidence (never say 100%) that's it. When troubleshooting, I tried the following:
Replacing the fuses
Replacing the blower motor switch
Replacing the blower resistor.
It all came down to that relay! Try it, I bet that will fix it for you.
i followed the wires i couldn't find any fuse box under the head light but i did find 2 sets of wires going to 1 flat 4 wire connector and 1 round 4 wire connector. the flat connector had cap on it but the round one was open and the driver side was the same way. i'm going to look some more for the fuse box
Ok I have a 99 & the manual lists in the cabin IP fuse panel, fuse position #2, a 7.5amp fuse, that is for the Blower Motor Relay, PAD Module & Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor.
This fuse, if bad, would prevent the blower motor relay in the underhood power distribution box, from working to supply power to your blower motor speed control switch & blower motor & cause your Air Bag trouble light to turn on, so it, or its contacts, or wiring, or electrical connectors & connections are good suspects.
If the fuse is blown, you need to find out WHY!!!!
You may have more than one probem.
A good suspect would be a bad blower motor relay coil, which this fuse protects.
I'd try pulling the blower motor relay, located in the underhood power distribution box, then replace the 7.5 amp fuse in the IP panel, power up & see if the air bag light goes off & stays off.
If so, then turn the power off & swap the Blower Motor Relay, with a like, known good relay, then power up & see if things work ok. If so, suspect the relay's operating coil & replace the relay.
If the blower still doesn't work, switch the climate mode switch to vent & fan speed control to High & try it. These settings will bypass the blower motor speed, resistor pack.
If the motor still won't work, check the 40 amp blower motor fuse, in the underhood power distribution box.
If blower works ok on high speed, but not on any lower speeds, suspect the blower motor resistor pack, located under hood, in the Heater/AC air duct, on the passenger side firewall area.
the fuse under the hood isn't blown and i can hear the relay clicking but still nothing to blower motor itself. where is the resistor located so i can check that
the long awaited update!
it still doesn't work i tried a resistor from another truck along with the switch, no change. i'm trying to figure this thing between jobs, thats why it took so long to update
Do you have 12v at the fuse holder? I am not familiar with this rig,but it may have a fusible link blown? If 12v at holder, then follow it all the way to connector. I had an Escort that had a fried connector at the motor. Inspect it carefully. The connector had been kicked or something and was melted and fried inside.
If you want to fix this,get a diagram and follow the juice from the battery+ to the battery-. Sounds easy, right? A blower motor, if still good, you tested it , right? Needs plenty of current to work at 12v. It wants clean,undamaged,uncorroded path for the amps to flow. I have seen relays that click,but have pulled apart and saw the connections burnt. Same for switches inside and connectors. I used to use meter for 12v, but use test light now. if the lite is dimmer at all, i disconnect power and test resistance from one end to other. High resistance circuit fault due to corrosion,broken strands,bad connections is the hardest to find and most common reason a low voltage system fails.... Brute force(throwing new parts at a problem) is expensive and frustrating. A good repair will find the root cause and correct it
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