Any one out there using a Fairlane one piece glass nose on an F1? I'm just getting started on the fit of mine and find the fit to be less than perfect. I built the hinge for it already but find the fit in the cowl area to be poor. If any of you have encountered the same problem I'd like to hear how you solved it.

 

There is an article covering this very subject in the August 2002 issue of Custom Classic trucks. It covers in great detail what they did to correct the problem. Hope this helps, and good luck with your problem!

 

I'm the guy that wrote the article in CCT in August. My truck is a '53 but the fit was much less than perfect on my cowl also... Fairlane was very little help... you can see what we've started to do on my hood... all that's on hold right now... I'm cutting out the volare front clip and putting in a M-II unit.. so the hood in sitting in the corner on it's nose... if you have any specific questions let me know and I'll try to help

john

BTW if you have any good ideas let me know also...

 

Thanks John for the offer. I know what you mean about Fairlane being of little help. I had expected the front end to fit better in the cowl area than it does. I guess that we're pretty much on our own in making it fit nicely. I know I can make it fit but just thought that maybe someone might have a few ideas to share to make it an easier job. For what they charge for these you would think that it would be an almost bolt on installation.

 

I've also been looking at the 1 piece tilts. Another "problem" I've noticed is inner fenders. What are you guys planning on doing with these? The mid-fifty says you need a special type, and they don't sell them. I can't imagine running down the road with all of the dirt & water splashing all over my new motor....

Thanks,
Mike

 

I don't plan on running any "now". I probably won't drive in the weather unless it sneeks up on me... then I'll just clean it off I guess... I've seen some at the shows that are permanently attached to the frame rails and firewall.. but I didn't like them very much.

they certainly hamper your access to the engine, unless you take them off everytime and that's a pain... guess you could use some Dzuz fasteners, but I still don't like the look.. I plan to finish the inside of my hood as slick as the outside and I can see the paint getting pretty messed up by the inner fenders scraping... so it's none for me !!!

john

 

I am considering making a set of inner fenders to glass into the tilt nose. This way they will tilt out of the way when the nose is opened. I am not that far along yet so no set plan has been made yet. I may be able to use the original inner fenders for some type of pattern but it will take some real planning to come up with a working solution.

 

I have a 53 with a one piece tilt, power frontend. There are no
inner fenders and it rains a lot here in sunny FL. There is not much of a mess with mud and the like and it is easy to wash off.

The 351 has a few chrome parts and is detailed. What I use is the windex spray wash bottle for outside windows. I add about 50% car wash soap - attach to the garden hose (like when you do the windows, spray - rinse and wipe off the chrome.

Any rate back to road spray, if you dont have salt on the roads it should not be all that bad. Don't forget the weight factor if you manufacture inners for the one piece. They are a fair weight all by themself.

 

JOHN, I READ YOUR ARTICLE ON VOLARIE IFS AND INSTALLED ONE ON MY 48 FI GOING BY YOUR GUIDE. WORKS WONDERFUL WITH NO PROBLEM OF ANY KIND.. NOW I SEE YOU ARE TAKING IT OUT AND I AM WONDERING WWWWWWHY YOU ARE .. IS THERE SOMETHING YOU DISCOVERED I SHOULD KNOW ABOUT? THANKS

 

Iceman,

I'm getting ready to put one under my 48 come Spring. What engine did you use in yours? Is there anything that was tricky that I should be on the lookout for?

 

Vern,
do yourself a favor. Get the video from No Limit Engineering. Even though it is for 53-56's, the knowledge supplied will apply to just about anything. Friends have borrowed mine to figure out how to put a Volare' in a 51 Studebaker coupe, a 53 Stude truck, and 60 F100. It will show you what to look for.

 

my problem with the Volare was interference... I'm using a 460 engine and between the fat big block and the steering box I couldn't get a set of headers on it... I talked to Bob at Bob's f-100 who is the volare guru of the world... he assured me he does 460/volare installs all the time and I had mine set too low... I was within 1/2 " of the firewall and any raise of engine would make me do some serious firewall surgery... so I opted for the Mustang unit... lots of work but with the tilt front end it will look prettier than the volare and there is mucho room for headers and such now...

The volares drive fine and operate great... I've driven several and was pleased with the performance of the suspension.

One thing you should do... as soon as you install it...rebuild it... all the bushings too... it's a little pricy.. Dewayne aka fatfenders can help you with partnumbers and prices.. it will make all the difference in the unit..

hope that helps..

john

 

Farmer,

I have a video on the way and plenty of time to watch it until the snow melts...

Fenders,

What about those part numbers for a rebuild? I know mine will need some attention after 130,000 miles on salted Northeast roads...

 

Vern

The parts are not too difficult to come up with actually. You'll need to verify the following info, especially if you mail order, to ensure correct parts. Sway bar diameter, outer tie rod end size (diameter at threaded part near adjusting sleeve). Also the upper ball joint can be STD or HD. The HD have flats and actually screw out with a pipe wrench. You will need a torch to heat stuff. Otherwise you will likely screw up your control arms.

The aforementioned is easy to find. There are kits from places like Kanter that will save you lots of cash. The expensive part is the torsion bar bushings. The pivot bushings on the front of the frame might be OK. The end bushings at the lower control arm are guaranteed to be junk. They are about $160 a pair as I recall. Moog makes them. I would suggest you have $500 budgeted and don't be surprised if you go over budget if the brakes need a major restore.

The other choice is to install a worn out clip or one of those ugly MIIs (You still out there John?) Why bother? By the way, I have inches of clearance between my steering box and my shorty headers. You can install any small block you want with the Volare.

'fenders

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 28-Dec-02 AT 11:13 AM (EST)]Fenders,

Thanks for the great info as always. I have no torch, so I may have to have the control arm bushing installation farmed out. By "flats" I assume you mean places to put a wrench on to unscrew the joint, right? Does the No-LImit video cover any rebuilding aspects? Talk about ugly...this Chrysler suspension is about as ugly as they get, but that won't stop me from using it since I won't have to show it to anybody like John does with his tilt. Did you use an aftermarket motor mount or make your own. I've seen some aftermarket universal tube type mounts that can be used for Ford or Chevy, or is this suspension friendly to a tube type mount...