Light Trouble
2. Depending on which one melted this should work really nicely. If your lucky it will plug right in. If it's the other side you'll have to lengthen the new male to OE female connector (only uses one, I've put one on my Sis' truck, but I've done a couple before and since, can't remember which side it uses to activate the relay).
3. Ditch the blue bulbs and get some Xtravisions.
http://www.gosracing.com/inc/sdetail/2267
I tried to source some OE bare sockets a while back, no luck. They may be more common now, doesn't sound like they are worth much though.
No cutting is necessary to the old system or the new harness unless it wants to use the connector which is melted. In that case you may have to lengthen the wires on the new male adaptor (part of the new harness) so that it will reach (to plug into the other/opposite side factory bulb connector, ie the good one). It comes with new connectors but you won't have to cut them at all.
Basically plug and play so long as you get lucky and it uses your 1 non-melted harness. If not, just lengthen 2 wires (on the new male adaptor) and you should be good to go.
if you are better with schematics than words, the new harness works similar to this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...r_Brights.html
The only major difference is that you won't have to do any cutting to the OE harness/plugs. The male adaptor on the new harness makes it so you don't have to.
In this picture the two outer plugs on the bottom are your new bulb connectors, the inner bottom is the male adaptor for one of your old bulb connectors. The wires at the top right are the power wires for the bulb, the top left are the 2 relays. The (kinda hiding) two short black wires coming out of the new connector are the new grounds (which are shared between the high and low beams). http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1632828/i/50-9108_ezr2.jpg
The male adaptor plugs into the old connector where the bulb did originally. Then, when you turn your headlight switch on, instead of directly powering a bulb, it sends power to the relay activating them. They new bulb connectors (socket, if you will) and bulb now get power sent to them from the relay by a completely seperate wire. One of the old healdight connectors is simply "flicking the switch" inside the relay when you turn on the headlight switch from inside and/or are changing from high to low beams.
I put a good coating of electrical tape on the unused factory bulb connector (the melted one in your case), to play it safe. It is now a dead-end as far as power is concerned.
If that didn't set you straight, feel free to ask for further clarification. It seems complicated but, once you figure it out, it's pretty simple.
Don't worry about further melting of the original connectors once this kit is installed, the amount of power running thru it at that point is very small. There are other benefits as well.
Mind answering the question I asked in my original reply (bulb type, etc.)?
edit: I did a bunch of editing, I was calling the new connector female originally in this post. Reread as necessary

Last edited by tdister; Oct 18, 2006 at 08:11 PM.
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I am positive you only need 1 good original connector to make this work.
Yes, it essentially splits it into two at the relays. One relay powers the both of the low beams, the other does both of the highs. One of each of the wires from the male adaptor/connector feeds into a relay to activate it/them.
No, you do not have to cut the melted one off. That's the one you should just wrap with elec. tape (to shield it from accidently making contact with something else). Just leave it be after that. It is now a dead-end, but no need to remove it.
I'm about 90% sure it will want to use the passenger side socket, hopefully that is the unmelted one. If not though, it's not going to be a big deal, if you feel comfortable doing it, to make it reach the other one (drivers side).
Still no answer? C'mon man, you're killing me here.
Last edited by tdister; Oct 18, 2006 at 08:40 PM.


