Rusted engine 1 -- Kevin 0
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: east central Illinois
Rusted engine 1 -- Kevin 0
Well, we pulled the engine Saturday and took the head off tonight. Five of the six pistons had a nice little puddle of all the different fluids we soaked them in. Not a good sign. I think we'll have to remove the crankshaft and beat on the pistons from the top. We ran into a problem when we tried to remove the oil pump. The manual says to remove the distributor and then pull the oil pump. Only problem is, the distributor is stuck and stuck good. 
Apparently, aluminum reacts with steel and forms a really nice bond. Anyone have any experience removing a stuck distributor? That sucker is in there tight. We did get it to move a little but it's not coming out any time soon. I guess the best approach will be to heat it up and douse it with paraffin. Should we heat the block or the distributor?
If we want to go ahead and pull the oil pump, how do I get to the second stud that it's mounted to? Removing the studs should allow us to pull the filter shaft straight out of the splined gear on the end of the distributor shaft. The second stud is covered by the oil filter plate. Is the plate simply pressed into the block? Thanks for all the help!
Kevin Kessler
1953 Ford F-100
Apparently, aluminum reacts with steel and forms a really nice bond. Anyone have any experience removing a stuck distributor? That sucker is in there tight. We did get it to move a little but it's not coming out any time soon. I guess the best approach will be to heat it up and douse it with paraffin. Should we heat the block or the distributor?If we want to go ahead and pull the oil pump, how do I get to the second stud that it's mounted to? Removing the studs should allow us to pull the filter shaft straight out of the splined gear on the end of the distributor shaft. The second stud is covered by the oil filter plate. Is the plate simply pressed into the block? Thanks for all the help!
Kevin Kessler
1953 Ford F-100
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: in a house, near sherwood
Rusted engine 1 -- Kevin 0
DONT HEAT the distributor
if you got it too start moving,... even a little... this is good. use your favorite pentarant on it (PB Blaster). and continue to rotate it back and forth. heat and alum. just dont go togetherRobert
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From: Battle Creek USA
Rusted engine 1 -- Kevin 0
I know this isn't the problem but a neat little trick is when you put new races on a wheel hub put them in the freezer overnight. They will shrink and can be tapped in easily rather than pounded in.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
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From: Iowa
Rusted engine 1 -- Kevin 0
Kevin
What engine are we cussing at today? The straight six in your gallery? If so I am not the guy to help you. But I agree with Robert on the torch work. Use heat as a last resort on a distributor. If it moves at all, use penetrating oil and be patient.
'fenders
What engine are we cussing at today? The straight six in your gallery? If so I am not the guy to help you. But I agree with Robert on the torch work. Use heat as a last resort on a distributor. If it moves at all, use penetrating oil and be patient.
'fenders
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rusted engine 1 -- Kevin 0
Kevin, I just had a random thought (watch out!). I wonder if a fella could set up some reverse electrolysys to free stuck pistons. Put one electrode on the piston and the other on the block and put some mild acid around the edge of the piston. I'm gonna cogitate on that one.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Iowa
Rusted engine 1 -- Kevin 0
"Kevin, I just had a random thought (watch out!). I wonder if a fella could set up some reverse electrolysys to free stuck pistons. Put one electrode on the piston and the other on the block and put some mild acid around the edge of the piston. I'm gonna cogitate on that one."
That was a pretty deep thought you had there Paul. I thought you polished off the eggnog Christmas Eve.
Another high tech solution to get the pistons out might this. He already soaked them with penetrating oil. Now take a short piece of 2X4, and then pound them out with a hammer. You think maybe I should do a tech article 
'fenders
That was a pretty deep thought you had there Paul. I thought you polished off the eggnog Christmas Eve.
Another high tech solution to get the pistons out might this. He already soaked them with penetrating oil. Now take a short piece of 2X4, and then pound them out with a hammer. You think maybe I should do a tech article 'fenders
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Laughing Gas
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From: east central Illinois
Rusted engine 1 -- Kevin 0
Yep, we're doing battle with the straight six. We cracked the housing on the distributor when we gave it a good whack trying to get it out. When that happened my Dad remembered that aluminum and steel can seize up pretty good. Gee, that would have been nice to know about five seconds before I swung the hammer. 
Ah, well. I'm not worried about saving it now. Is that why you guys don't recommend heat or is there some other reason? We got it to move by putting a pipe wrench on the neck where it enters the block. I guess we'll soak the sun of a gun in PB and give it another go this weekend. Anybody have any comments about the oil filter plate?
Thanks, guys!
Kevin Kessler
1953 Ford F-100
Ah, well. I'm not worried about saving it now. Is that why you guys don't recommend heat or is there some other reason? We got it to move by putting a pipe wrench on the neck where it enters the block. I guess we'll soak the sun of a gun in PB and give it another go this weekend. Anybody have any comments about the oil filter plate?
Thanks, guys!
Kevin Kessler
1953 Ford F-100
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rusted engine 1 -- Kevin 0
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 27-Dec-02 AT 01:55 PM (EST)]Dewayne, I'm working on New Year's already.:-X12
You know, I could consult on that tech article. I used exactly that method with a 292. I was reefing on that 2x4 so hard I was almost certain that I was gonna split the cylinder walls with those swollen piston.
Turns out that those old y-blocks have some pretty thick cylinders. My machinist punched them .040 over without a second thought, and he's a careful guy.
Kevin, PB Blaster is your friend. Use it liberally and let it soak for a long time. BTW, is that a 223 you're working on?
Edit: never mind. I just visited your gallery and see that it's a 215. I will send you my old distributor for shipping charges if you want it. I am replacing my old vacuum-only distributor with a centrifugal/vacuum unit from a 60's 223.
Looks like a Ford 9N or 8N back there.
I used to live in both Champaign and Urbana many moons ago.
You know, I could consult on that tech article. I used exactly that method with a 292. I was reefing on that 2x4 so hard I was almost certain that I was gonna split the cylinder walls with those swollen piston.
Turns out that those old y-blocks have some pretty thick cylinders. My machinist punched them .040 over without a second thought, and he's a careful guy.
Kevin, PB Blaster is your friend. Use it liberally and let it soak for a long time. BTW, is that a 223 you're working on?
Edit: never mind. I just visited your gallery and see that it's a 215. I will send you my old distributor for shipping charges if you want it. I am replacing my old vacuum-only distributor with a centrifugal/vacuum unit from a 60's 223.
Looks like a Ford 9N or 8N back there.
I used to live in both Champaign and Urbana many moons ago.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Iowa
Rusted engine 1 -- Kevin 0
Kevin
Yes, putting heat to a distributor is likely to screw up any electronics or seals (which it may or may not have in this case) You are right about the aluminum/iron spontaneous weld curse. I don't know what causes it in technical terms. Maybe one the "Deep Thought" guys like Paul or George can enlighten us in three paragraphs or so.
'fenders
Yes, putting heat to a distributor is likely to screw up any electronics or seals (which it may or may not have in this case) You are right about the aluminum/iron spontaneous weld curse. I don't know what causes it in technical terms. Maybe one the "Deep Thought" guys like Paul or George can enlighten us in three paragraphs or so.
'fenders
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 305
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From: in a house, near sherwood
Rusted engine 1 -- Kevin 0
i usaully put a light coat of "ANTI SIEZE" on alumimun parts.... they can be removed later real easy... but use it sparingly, cuz it can make a mess....
Robert
Robert
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Rusted engine 1 -- Kevin 0
MARVEL MYSTERY OIL KEV! i had a 223 that was seized in hi school pulled head and dumped mystery oil on pistons and next day i tapped em with a 2x4 freedem up pretty good never did finish truck tho! hope this helps julie
Posting Guru
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From: Southern New Hampshire
Rusted engine 1 -- Kevin 0
Heat the block up a bit and then spray PB Blaster around the seam. Heat makes that stuff really soak in. As long as you dont reach the aluminum melting point youre safe.
As far as the cold treatment Ive used a spray can of AC with the hose to get into tight places like that. With the block warm, hit the dizzy with cold. Aluminum has a much faster absorbtion coeficient so it will shrink first.
Works well on stuck pistons also.
CO2 makes a mess if you arent careful.
As far as the cold treatment Ive used a spray can of AC with the hose to get into tight places like that. With the block warm, hit the dizzy with cold. Aluminum has a much faster absorbtion coeficient so it will shrink first.
Works well on stuck pistons also.
CO2 makes a mess if you arent careful.
