what blocks can i use
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what blocks can i use
i have a 79 ford 300 with a crack on the passanger side just below the feeze plugs in the middle of the block it is about 7 in long i just wondered what years of block can i use to replace it like can i just use a 79 or what i welcome all replys thanks all and i just want to thank you all for being out there i wouldent be able to do my engine rebuild without all the information that yall have given me
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,357
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From: S. Mississippi
Virtually any 300 block will work. If yours is a stick though i'd be sure that the block i'm getting has the casting in it for the Z bar clutch setup, as the newer blocks didn't have it.
If you have an automatic, pick whatever year block you like and go to town, they are all the same.
If you have an automatic, pick whatever year block you like and go to town, they are all the same.
Postmaster
Joined: May 2002
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
Originally Posted by desperado_18_2000
If you have an automatic, pick whatever year block you like and go to town, they are all the same.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Lathrop, MO
Originally Posted by Silver Streak
The EFI blocks don't have a hole for the fuel pump. The mounting pad is there and the holes are drilled and tapped, but he hole doesn't go through. Shouldn't be a big deal to open it up yourself, but no sense doing it if you can get a block that already has it.
If you do find an EFI block to use, you could go to a frame mounted electric fuel pump. Just make sure that that you use one rated for the carb delivery pressures and not fuel injection pressures.
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i know this may terrify some of you but like the other guy said can i just use JB weld on it or will it fail after the engine warms up because i know a guy that did that with a 350 but after it warmed up the crack opened back up and coolant was all over the place
More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Auburn, CA
The big thing with JB Weld is to clean the surfaces very well.
First drain the block well below the crack.
Second using Acetone or 92% Alcohol clean all around and in the crack (use a qtip to get inside).
Third clean up the surface with clean emery cloth.
Fourth repeat step two.
Fifth prepare JB Weld and coat the surfaces with a medium coat and use a toothpick to get inside the crack.
Sixth after six hours put a second coat over the whole mess including the freeze plug to get a good mechanical bond.
Let sit for twelve or twenty four hours.
Good luck!
Vince
First drain the block well below the crack.
Second using Acetone or 92% Alcohol clean all around and in the crack (use a qtip to get inside).
Third clean up the surface with clean emery cloth.
Fourth repeat step two.
Fifth prepare JB Weld and coat the surfaces with a medium coat and use a toothpick to get inside the crack.
Sixth after six hours put a second coat over the whole mess including the freeze plug to get a good mechanical bond.
Let sit for twelve or twenty four hours.
Good luck!
Vince
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Postmaster
Joined: May 2002
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
I wouldn't use JB weld on a crack that big. Blocks are cheap. Why risk putting a bunch of money into an engine that might have other cracks in it that can't be fixed?
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no the engine is still in the truck you know i do beleve that i am going to go to a junkyard and just find me a good block and rebuild it right that way i dont run a risk of it splitting out
Last edited by greenhornbuilder; Oct 16, 2006 at 06:10 PM.
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i'd jb weld it so you can use the truck for now, and get a good block from a junk yard and rebuild it... then once either the jb weld gives out or u are just tired of driving a ticking time bomb then u can drop in the new motor.
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
If the engine is still in the truck and running fine you have nothing to lose by trying the JB weld. I thought you had it out to build. At worst you're out a few hours time and a few bucks for the JBW.