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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

1985 F-150 Stalling Problems

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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 05:16 PM
  #16  
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Piffery1
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From: Niceville, FL.
Power valve is in Primary circuit. 4180's use a two stage version, i.e., there are 3 positions, to wit: "off" in cruise, "partially open" during light acceleration and "full open" during heavy acceleration.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 10:31 PM
  #17  
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I warmed the engine and then shut it off. I rechedcked the float bowl levels with the flashlight and they were right where they needed to be. The timing has been check and it is right where it needs to be. If i decide to check the power valve would it be a good idea to get a rebuild kit that way it would have the float bowl seal incase it rips when I take it off? I believe a power valve comes with a holly rebuild kit? Let me know what I should do............. Seth
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 11:19 PM
  #18  
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gearshift101
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From: new jersey
stalling

Yes I would get the rebuild kit, Pull the carb and rebuild it, have you ever done a rebuild before?
it's really not that complicated to do. and if you order a rebuild kit be sure to ask if the power valve is included with the kit. another thing do you have an exploded view of your carb? it is the 4180 4-bbl, yes? if not. here it is.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...5.jsp#hd1-1-12

go to figure #31 Holley 4180-c 4 bbl


I just found this, you may want to check it out! I never called, But I would give it a shot. explain to them what your problem is. They just may have the solution.

For your 1985 Ford Truck F150 1/2 ton P/U 2WD:

Carburetor Hotline

For domestic and import vehicles installation and troubleshooting. Call 1-800-850-0846 open 8am-4:30pm, monday through friday, central standard time.

This may be a good thing! let me know.

Al
 

Last edited by gearshift101; Oct 25, 2006 at 11:31 PM.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 11:40 PM
  #19  
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Piffery1
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From: Niceville, FL.
You can buy Holley float and metering block gaskets individually for a few bucks apiece. If you go that route you can check the power valve and put everything back together if its not bad or replace just the valve and gaskets if it is. You don't even have to take the carburetor off the intake manifold to replace a power valve. Many times you don't even have to replace the gaskets if they don't tear when removing. Just soak them in fuel for about 1/2 hour, dry off and reinstall. CHECK FOR LEAKS, before driving though!
 
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 12:01 AM
  #20  
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From: new jersey
Piffery1, is right! and I would also replace the 2 o-rings on the fuel line tube that connects the primary fuel bowl to the secondary fuel bowl and the 2 o-rings on the transfer tube that is between the metering block and the main body of the carb. you'll see it once you pull the metering block to replace the power valve.

Another thought crossed my mind, I know you said you checked for vacume leaks, But did you check around the base / throttle body of the carburetor?

Al
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 01:29 PM
  #21  
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Well I replaced the powervalve today and it seemed to have fixed all my problems. Well see how long this lasts and I hoped that this fixed it, thanks for all your help.

Seth
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 02:10 PM
  #22  
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That's good to hear. good luck

Al
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 03:04 PM
  #23  
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From: Niceville, FL.
IF it backfires or "spits" through carburetor when accelerating at low speeds your idle mixture (front two barrels) may be too lean. Try turning the mixture screws (base of carb.) about 1/8 to 1/4 turn CCW. Might save you damaging another power valve.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 03:23 PM
  #24  
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Add a power valve saver so it won't happen again. Without this it's way to easy for a single backfire to kill the powervalve.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...55&D=%2D120055
 
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