No Rear Heat
Trailering
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Augusta, GA
That was a very good detail article by drthornton on how to replace the Heater Blend Door Acutator, went to the local parts store and got the acutator for $33 and the torx head socket for $5.99. It took about an hour to do the job but now I'm reaping the benefit. Thank you very much!
New User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
folks, this thread has been a god send! my 03 started making this noise yesterday. my noise goes away only when I set the temp **** to the middle. either side of that and the noise comes back. per this thread that would have me think the "easy" one is defective however, heat/ac only comes from the floor vents and not the top vents. what does that mean? both are faulty?? I removed the top plastic shelf and found the "easy" acutator but I believe the clicking/thumping sound is coming from behind the main ac assembly. can I assume that is where the "difficult" accuator is? after a few attempts I don't think I can get my hand behind the assembly to remove the actuator. could any of you provide some details on how to remove the interior panel without damage or a method where I can get behind the assembly? you guys are great! thanks for the thread.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 52
From: Lawton, Oklahoma
First if it stops clicking when you move the temp control then it is the hard one not the easy one. Second if it remains on floor when you push the button and you see the green indicator lights switching from floor to roof, then it is possible that both are not working. Ive had to replace both a number of times, though both usually will make the popping noise.
To completely remove the quarter trim panel you will need to dismount both upper seat belt bolts, c pillar lower seat belt bolt, both upper pillar mouldings, rear package tray lid, rear floor finisher, tire tools, the dual floor flaps assembly that sits behind the rear seats, rear door opening scuff plate, and retaining hardware on panel.
Be carefull as it is easy to break snap in retainers along the window edge of the quarter trim panel. They are hard to relocate and if you punch it with your hands to reinstall it out of place you will snap off the retainers. Its a large panel and needs to be handled with care. If you had to replace it you are looking at almost 500.00
To completely remove the quarter trim panel you will need to dismount both upper seat belt bolts, c pillar lower seat belt bolt, both upper pillar mouldings, rear package tray lid, rear floor finisher, tire tools, the dual floor flaps assembly that sits behind the rear seats, rear door opening scuff plate, and retaining hardware on panel.
Be carefull as it is easy to break snap in retainers along the window edge of the quarter trim panel. They are hard to relocate and if you punch it with your hands to reinstall it out of place you will snap off the retainers. Its a large panel and needs to be handled with care. If you had to replace it you are looking at almost 500.00
New User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
If someone wouldn't mind with part #'s. We replaced the "easy" last last October and then we bagan hearing the "click" again. So, I ordered the same part ($18 from Bob Utter Ford) and thought it would be a simple fix when I realized that it was the "hard" one that was broken this time. So, after I got it out and went to replace it, realized that although it looked the same, the gear piece that had to be lined up was a tad different. I was able to open the box and swap out that gear (since it wasn't the broken piece) and get it to work, but wonder if there actually is a different part number for the hard one, in case (which I'm sure one day I will have to) I have to replace them both again. Thanks!
New User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I don't know if year makes a difference, mine is a 2004. The sticker on the part that I removed had YL5H-19E616-AC and then 251 B254032. The pieces were different, not just an orientation issue. The piece on the part I purchased (which was correct for the easy replacement 1L2Z19E616BA) actually had 4 notches on the shaft, 3 identical in size and the fourth about double and rounded. The "hard" replacement shaft did not have the 3 identical notches, it was bascially rectangular with one rounded side, much like the 4th rounded side on the other part. There was no way (at least that I could figure) to get the other part in, so I ended up disassembling and just replacing the broken gear on the old box with that shaft and I had no problem getting it back in.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 52
From: Lawton, Oklahoma
I don't know if year makes a difference, mine is a 2004. The sticker on the part that I removed had YL5H-19E616-AC and then 251 B254032. The pieces were different, not just an orientation issue. The piece on the part I purchased (which was correct for the easy replacement 1L2Z19E616BA) actually had 4 notches on the shaft, 3 identical in size and the fourth about double and rounded. The "hard" replacement shaft did not have the 3 identical notches, it was bascially rectangular with one rounded side, much like the 4th rounded side on the other part. There was no way (at least that I could figure) to get the other part in, so I ended up disassembling and just replacing the broken gear on the old box with that shaft and I had no problem getting it back in.
New User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Thanks to all. This is exactly whats gone south in my 03. Will have to decide if my dealer will actually do it for $250 or drag my brother-in-law over next weekend to help
Last edited by SoCalexped; Apr 21, 2008 at 11:19 PM. Reason: error
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