hey everyone...
wondering if anyone had a the same crazy idea to put some laughing gas on a 300. does anyone make forged pistons for these things??? i want my lil truck to be a daily driver with a lil extra somethin somethin (doing head work, intake porting, etc) but im thinking this may be the ticket for the extra push when i do occasionally take the truck to the track... i was considering a 351W swap, but the dang ol six wont die, and besides, whats sleepier than telling your opponent "its just got a six in it?"

thanks,
Lee

 

When you take it to the track--bring a basket and a shovel to gather up the parts. It's a truck engine!

stractor

 

I had the same idea but i'm going with a turbo with water injection, yes you can buy forged pistons for them (351w pistons work but i am not sure which ones) any engine can use nitrous but it is all in the tune of the engine, are you runing a carb or efi

 

I've heard it said before (my have been here) that if you are going to use a bottle on this engine, even with a build for it, don't go over a 75 shot unless you want to use that bucket and shovel.

 

it would be great for pulling out treestumps.

 

I forgot to say I use to race my (300) truck at the track when I was in high school but not on the bottle, just a home made ram air kit purchased at homedepot performance the heating and ducking section LOL.She ran 17.53sec in 1/4mile. Now about how much nitrous a 300 can handle i'm not sure of the limit but it definitely should be more than a 75 shot depending on how the engine is built.The trick is to get the right air and fuel mix and timing (use a wideband O2 to make sure the engine does not lean out and cause detonation). Allso do not to let the rpm's go past the engines internel limits and do not miss a shift or you will need that bucket and shovel!!

 

Personally, I'd stay away from the nitrous. Unless you spend a lot of time and money your max safe rpm is only about 4500. Much more than that and you start to run into valve float. besides, without major programming changes your EEC-IV won't know how to react.

Forged pistons are nominally available from Sealed Power for this engine. Or you can custom order from the likes of Ross with excellent results.

For mild street enhancement you don't need forged, a fresh set of pistons and matched rods with a well balanced crank is the ticket. With a well breathing head, descent cam, freeflowing exaust and intake, larger injectors, and a custom tune in the computer so that everything plays nice... should see the performance gains your looking for.

If you looking for radical power gains you'll most likely need to convert to MAF/SFI and and a turbo or two on top of the above. I'd consider changing to forged pistons of the boost is planned for more than 8#'s.

If torque is going to exceed 350 you'll need to find a steel/forged crank from the 300HD's.

If you plan to exceed 4500rpm you have a whole host of problems to over come. Mains will need re-enforcement. Crank will need to be finely balanced. Roller cam and heavy duty valve springs to reduce float. These are just starters.

 

Good tune or not, spraying a 300 is begging for the privelege of using the bucket and shovel. A 300 is barely capable of getting into the safe operating rpm range for nitrous. Spraying it at lower rpm is a recipe for distaster. A 75 shot in the rpm range the 300 usually works at adds 150 ft-lbs torque and that's more than it will handle.

 

The 300-6 is a good motor but it is not a hot rod motor. Leave it alone. If you want a hot rod motor that bad get a V8

 

Where's Colflashman on this post?

He got his straigh six up to like 400hp and 500ftlbs or something, dynoed. He's the guy to talk to about building for high revs and monster numbers. Not sure that he would agree with throwing the bottle on there, but you never know.

 

High revs? His power peak was 300@4000 and torque peak 400@3000. Obviously stout, but not a screamer. Probably in the neighbor hood of 370 ft-lbs at 2000 rpm compared to a stocker with a 75 shot that will make around 500 ft-lbs at that rpm if it holds together long enough to make it. Cylinder pressure is very hard to control at low rpms. That's why they don't recommend using it at low rpm.

 

Only 4000? Hmm, could have swore either he mentioned that his motor hit 5k on the dyno, or maybe he was talking about his dad that used to rod out 300s back in the day...

 

I don't doubt they spun it to 5k on the dyno, but it was all done well before then. That still isn't screaming.