Plug In
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Capac MI
Plug In
Hey, For you North People, as you can tell the temps are comin downnn. I just got my first diesel truck, and it did not come with the right owners manual. So therefore i have NOOOO clue at what temp to plug it in at. Please help its gonna get cold tonight. Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by THE KING
Hey, For you North People, as you can tell the temps are comin downnn. I just got my first diesel truck, and it did not come with the right owners manual. So therefore i have NOOOO clue at what temp to plug it in at. Please help its gonna get cold tonight. Thanks
On a side note, if everything with your GP system and your batteries are in tip top condition you should be able to start it without the block heater to well below zero.
Nut
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Elkhorn, WI
ya i have mine on a timer to come on 3 hours before school and if you use 5-40 synthetic oil it helps also. ive started mine at -5 without the block heater. the truck wasnt too happy about it but it just made some weird noises at first and then ran fine
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Capac MI
Yup my dads is at 112000, Its in great shape except for the front end rattles around alot, I brought it into my school and we did an inspection, Its hard to do on a 3/4 truck lol, So Tomorrow its goin in the dealership for that problem and when your going 55, let off the gas all the way then put preasure back on the pedal the rear end has a little clunk that you can feel. My teacher said that it could be becuase of the milage but idk. Probably should get that looked at too, and also when he bought the truck he got a extended warranty so well see how that works out for him. Thankyou
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: New Hampshire
I also recomend checking ,and if necessary, cleaning any oxidation off your three prong plug to the block heater cord as it gets very dirty and oxidized.
Some emery cloth rubbing to a nice shiny metal surface. This heater is 1000watts and pulls about 8amps nominal @ 115V AC. It CAN be a fire hazard...
trust me. The orange end at the engine block should be checked and cleaned too. Just remove the two prong retainer and pull the end out.
Hope this helps.
Nut
Some emery cloth rubbing to a nice shiny metal surface. This heater is 1000watts and pulls about 8amps nominal @ 115V AC. It CAN be a fire hazard...
trust me. The orange end at the engine block should be checked and cleaned too. Just remove the two prong retainer and pull the end out.
Hope this helps.
Nut
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Capac MI
OK thanks i will do that tomorrow, When we bought the truck it acually took us both a long time to find that dang thing lol! But when we did the cover was off and there was mud in there, SO il clean that and the part that goes into the motor.
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From: Eastern Washington
Originally Posted by THE KING
Yup my dads is at 112000, Its in great shape except for the front end rattles around alot, I brought it into my school and we did an inspection, Its hard to do on a 3/4 truck lol, So Tomorrow its goin in the dealership for that problem and when your going 55, let off the gas all the way then put preasure back on the pedal the rear end has a little clunk that you can feel. My teacher said that it could be becuase of the milage but idk. Probably should get that looked at too, and also when he bought the truck he got a extended warranty so well see how that works out for him. Thankyou
Unfortunatly, balljoints, bearings, and endlinks are pretty common issues under there.
For you coast 'clunk', put the truck in neutral (make sure you don't squish yourself) and grab the rear driveline. Try to twist it both ways, check for movement between the driveline and yokes. Put pressure against the ends of the driveline and look for walking ujoints. Make sure the slip yoke is tight (push it up and down, try to twist it.