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To make a long story short.. I end up replacing all the o-rings and two new injectors. When all said and done it now won't start. Should I have left the oil gallery plugs out until I had HPOP pressure? Coulld the pump be cavitating?
I get no smoke or signs of life. I plan on pulling the passenger side injectors tonight to check out the o-rings (they didn't pop in life the driver's side).
Any ideas?
Leaving the plugs out while cranking will only make a mess - no oil pressure to run the injectors, however.
How long have you operated the starter trying to start it? When I did my injectors it was a little less than 60 seconds total cranking time, broken up into three segments to avoid burning out the starter. You have to give the HPOP time to refill the oil galleys.
You also might try removing the fuel rail plugs at the far end of each head from where the steel lines go in. Cycle the fuel pump by turning on the ignition key until fuel runs out of the hole.
It is annoying after replacing injectors, just be patient and she will fire. She will lope and smoke until the excess is gone from the cylinders. Just watch the oil pressure guage in the dash. Troy
It took me many minutes of cranking to get mine fired after I replaced the injectors. As the guy at Hypermax told me. . . it will take ten times longer to start than the point where you already think something is wrong. Leave everything plugged just like normal driving. . . crank for 10 or so seconds at a time. . . leaving nice intervals to cool the starter, and yes, watch your oil pressure. your oil pressure should be coming up even though its not firing. Also. . when I started it, I thought I had enough oil in it. . . but it was hard to tell because I wasn't sure how much the oil galleys were going to take. . . I ended up being a little low. . . and one- only one injector didn't fire. So after its started. . . check the oil level again.
Tim
another thing you might want to do is put a 10a charger on the batteries just so you dont run them down, i have seen that happen a couple of times (me once). When i was firing my new engine for the first time it took for ever to fire, probably almost 10 min worth of cranking.
I've almost got that much time cranking on the beast. Being not so confident, I pulled injector #1 last night. She had oil.. Back to the 10 min again..
I looked for the fuel rail plug last night and couldn't find it. I found 3 indents, one of which had a larger circle around it this was on drivers side towards top of head. It felt like an allen head.. Is this the right plug?
on each head, on the front of the right head, and the rear on the left head, there is a square head 1/4 pipe plug. remove this plug if you think it is air, and switch it on a few times. is the truck starting or not after 10 minutes?
It doesn't even give the indication of wanting to start.
When I switch the key on, the fuel pump starts running and stays running for 30 seconds or so. It sounds like air in the system due to a crackling type of sound.
Still no smoke.. Here's the kicker.. I had this truck at the local diesel shop and then the local dealer. The local guy had trouble communicating with the PCM and couldn't do a contrib test. I then took to dealer and he ended up replacing the computer just to do a contribution test. Cylinder 1 & 2 bad according to them. The SOBs tore out injectors to check them and wanted $2100 to replace the 2 and all 8 o_ring sets. I had them put it back together and drove it home. They had neglected to hook up the vacuum sensor on the turbo and it made for a long drive home. I found it when I got home and the truck started great. This is when I took out all injectors and replaced the 0-rings. So my variables are: 1. o-rings not pumped up (I pulled the oil gallery plug again last night, good oil) 2. air in fuel log. (will look again for plugs tonight) 3. bad PCM from dealer 4. some stupid mistake I made (I am only human)
I feel for you. Nothing is more agravating than to have a working motor refuse to start after you work on it.
Sorry I cannot offer you any other help than that, I assume you've checked all the plugs ten times by now.
If u have the old injectors, please count all the cpper washers and make sure they r accounted 4. Baby girl in L hand, typing w/ R. Dont be like me and forget 2 trq 1 down an lock er up in chicago.
I'm still down for the count, no progress. But waiting for parts to come in for an oil pressure tester. question is: The IPR nut was laying in the gallery. It looks like from the engine side that the IPR goes on, then a shoulder spacer then the nut. Should the shoulder of the spacer be facing the IPR?
This what you are needing?
If the "tin" nut was in the valey or just loose for that matter it could be your problem. With it loose/missing the IPR cannot control pressure
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