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Cab questions - F100

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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 08:25 AM
  #1  
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Cab questions - F100

Once you have everthing unbolted and disconnected, how do you physically remove the cab from the frame?

Once you have the cab off, how do you position it to work on the underside? Tip it onto the back? Onto the firewall?

Thanks, John
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 09:25 AM
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fatfenders56
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welcome, check my ''patch panels'' gallery, there is a drawing in there of a tumble jig that I built to work on a cab. Hope it helps
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 10:05 AM
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Invite about 4 of your friends over for beers, then say, "Oh by the way...". There was a post awhile back; a little mini-movie of a frame swap done with a forklift, anybody?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 10:40 AM
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Removing the Cab

Originally Posted by john061543
Once you have everthing unbolted and disconnected, how do you physically remove the cab from the frame?

Once you have the cab off, how do you position it to work on the underside? Tip it onto the back? Onto the firewall?

Thanks, John
Four guys can handle it. With four, you just lift it up off the frame to one side, two guys step over the frame after setting the cab down on one frame rail, and moving outward. Once the cab is off, it is easy to position it the way you need to have it.

If only two are available, you can tip it off one side. Make sure to have the front fenders and running boards completely off first. It is still pretty easy with 4 x 4 blocks, some plywood, and some patience.

Regards,

Alan
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 11:09 AM
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I've had mine tipped to the firewall and the back.You'll find your going to need both while working on the bottom. When tipped to the back I had it on some firm foam,and was careful not to step on the back wall. To the firewall it rest good on the inner fender brackets.
There are other ways such as a rotissiory and such. I found just tipping to work for me. Once all the glass and doors are removed its actually not to bad to tip.
Good Luck
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by alanco
Four guys can handle it. With four, you just lift it up off the frame to one side, two guys step over the frame after setting the cab down on one frame rail, and moving outward. Once the cab is off, it is easy to position it the way you need to have it.

If only two are available, you can tip it off one side. Make sure to have the front fenders and running boards completely off first. It is still pretty easy with 4 x 4 blocks, some plywood, and some patience.

Regards,

Alan
With the doors off I have done the tip and slide onto a dolly alone (it is a large heavy duty dolly). Two would be better. I personally have had my cab (without doors) setting on the back, front and either side to work on cab corners and floor. I used a lot of padding,carefully positioned, on the floor however.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 11:29 AM
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If you have four buddies available trick (er, ask) them to help, that way you are loose to supervise. Not being lazy either...but it's hard to see what you're clearing or more importantly NOT clearing on the frame/wheels/etc when you're lifting too.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 12:16 PM
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Thanks for all the input. Say, are you guys doing anything this weekend? I've got some extra beeer, and......

John
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 12:43 PM
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I built an upright frame from some old steel I had on hand, added two boat winches with the webbed straps to the uprights, used them to easily lift the cab. It turned it into a one man operation and made reinstalling the cab a breeze. It was also stout enough to use for a lift when I installed the engine and tranny in the truck. Total cost to me was $80 for both winches and 4 heavy duty wheels with locks.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 02:23 PM
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Steel

Originally Posted by Huntsman
I built an upright frame from some old steel I had on hand, added two boat winches with the webbed straps to the uprights, used them to easily lift the cab. It turned it into a one man operation and made reinstalling the cab a breeze. It was also stout enough to use for a lift when I installed the engine and tranny in the truck. Total cost to me was $80 for both winches and 4 heavy duty wheels with locks.
Wish I had that much steel................

Regards,

Alan
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 04:25 PM
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With the doors off, I actually slid it off by myself. Set it on its back to work on. After it was painted, used a cherry picker with rope slings to put it back on, again , by myself. To and from the body shop had someone help me lift it on a truck and same back.

Fred
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 04:42 PM
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alll good advice on removing...

here's what I built for cab work... old bread racks and stop sign posts...

john
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by alanco
Wish I had that much steel................

Regards,

Alan
I wish I had more of it, not too many years ago scrap iron wasn't worth what it would cost to haul it away, companies would give it to you just to keep from having to deal with it. It's certainly not that way today.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 05:59 PM
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you can also build one from 2/4 and 2/6 lumber and bolt it together with carriage bolts.... works the same way..only the torch will hurt it's feelings

john
 
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 06:18 PM
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This is a pic of the rotating frame I built out of some scrap that was laying around.




This thing made cab work a breeze as it rotates 360*
Jeff
 
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