Comp 292H cam vacuum help???

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Oct 14, 2006 | 11:11 PM

#16

Putt

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From: Colville, Washington

Good news!! Remember soft brakes could be some air in the lines, so a bleeding might help... of the brakes!!!

Oct 14, 2006 | 11:14 PM

#17

pbear6969

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From: North Carolina

Quote:

Originally Posted by Putt

Good news!! Remember soft brakes could be some air in the lines, so a bleeding might help... of the brakes!!!

Yeah we used a vacuum bleeder the first time before we knew the booster was bad. Probably just need to recheck all the wheels just to be sure. They are soft but it will stop, so that's a much needed improvement!!

Oct 14, 2006 | 11:24 PM

#18

Putt

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From: Colville, Washington

I would try a little more initial timing also, around 12* to 14*, that cam should tolerate more initial as long as the total doesn't get out of line. That would help your idle vacuum also.

Oct 14, 2006 | 11:30 PM

#19

pbear6969

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From: North Carolina

Quote:

Originally Posted by Putt

I would try a little more initial timing also, around 12* to 14*, that cam should tolerate more initial as long as the total doesn't get out of line. That would help your idle vacuum also.

Yeah we were short on time today so maybe later in the week we can play with it some more. I did notice that if we took the vacuum line off the dizzy it wouldn't idle good. Is this a problem with something or just that I need more initial timing?

Oct 14, 2006 | 11:41 PM

#20

Putt

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From: Colville, Washington

It indicates that the throttle plates are open far enough to expose the ported vacuum port to manifold vacuum. That is causing some vacuum advance at idle, try more initial timing and then see if you can slow the idle speed down with the idle speed screw(not the mixture screws!) until you have no vacuum at the distributor at an acceptable idle speed. You will need to go back and forth from the speed screw to the mixture screws to keep the idle as smooth as possible. It may be that you cannot eliminate all vacuum without drilling the throttle plates, but I would try everything else before even considering that.

Oct 14, 2006 | 11:46 PM

#21

pbear6969

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From: North Carolina

Ok I will try that. I have to have it idled around 1100 rpm's to keep a good steady idle. If I go below 1000 it want's to die. I guess that is because of the big cam. Comp says it has a racy idle and I believe it now. We set the mixture screw with a tach for now, by watching the rpms for the highest and then we adjusted the idle screw.

Oct 14, 2006 | 11:56 PM

#22

Putt

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From: Colville, Washington

I would hold the engine steady at 1000 RPM and set your initial to about 16* to 18*, it could be that you are getting a small amount of mechanical advance at that RPM, then back off the idle speed and see what your timing is at(same method as mentioned before). You are going to need at least 12* and likely 16* of initial to get an acceptable idle, then you will need to limit your total mechanical with the limiter pins on the weights.

Oct 15, 2006 | 12:00 AM

#23

pbear6969

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From: North Carolina

Quote:

Originally Posted by Putt

You are going to need at least 12* and likely 16* of initial to get an acceptable idle, then you will need to limit your total mechanical with the limiter pins on the weights.

Now you are talking about stuff I don't have a clue about. Sorry never messed inside a distributor. I'm sure I can find someone who can though. Do you think I can have my dizzy set-up with the point's in it then change it to the conversion kit and it work right?