lifter sound at startup??
Last edited by bridge; Oct 9, 2006 at 06:37 PM.
1. Run some seafoam through the system per the recommeded vacuum procedure (it's on here somewhere).
2. In conjunction with the above also add some seafoam directly into the crankcase about 100 miles before changing the oil. This will help clean things out.
3. Change the oil, you can go with syn or dino. Syn has more detergent in it for cleaning. You need to look for any leaks around the gaskets. The seafoam and synthetic oil will loosen all the "gunk", the downside here is that the "gunk" tends to plug gasket leaks. It's a risk, however i'm yet to read a post where someone ended up with an oil leak after doing this.
4. Change your plugs.
Hopefully that will address your issues. Keep in mind that some engines just develop lifter chatter as a matter of age and the only way to get rid of it is to tear down the engine and readjust the lash on the lifter rods.
For more information check out this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ine-knock.html
also.. is it true if i switch to synthetic oil i cant switch back???
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1. Run some seafoam through the system per the recommeded vacuum procedure (it's on here somewhere).
2. In conjunction with the above also add some seafoam directly into the crankcase about 100 miles before changing the oil. This will help clean things out.
3. Change the oil, you can go with syn or dino. Syn has more detergent in it for cleaning. You need to look for any leaks around the gaskets. The seafoam and synthetic oil will loosen all the "gunk", the downside here is that the "gunk" tends to plug gasket leaks. It's a risk, however i'm yet to read a post where someone ended up with an oil leak after doing this.
4. Change your plugs.
Hopefully that will address your issues. Keep in mind that some engines just develop lifter chatter as a matter of age and the only way to get rid of it is to tear down the engine and readjust the lash on the lifter rods.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
As far as step one, I'd be skeptical if it didn't get rid of my Expy's rough idle. I think my old Expy's intake was pretty gummed up from the oil on the KandN air filter and chemically, the seafoam is essentially the same a spray throttle body cleaner.
I've read post from others who have argued that the seafoam can't really clean burnt carbon deposits (because they have already been consumed) or provide any cleaning. However, carbon deposits are hydrocarbons that can readily bind to other hydrocarbons with the addition of heat. That's exactly what seafoam is...left over hydrocarbons from the highest fraction of petroleum refining. They are nothing but poly-carbon chains of varying lengths, probably between C10 and C15 in length. I doubt even the makers of the stuff know the exact percentages of the varying carbon chains in their product, as they are essentially selling a byproduct (which they are making a heavy profit on, there's not more the .25 cents of product in the large bottle). When you add the seafoam to your engine the shorter chains can pick up carbon and carry them out of the engine during the exhaust stroke.
Initially, I thought all the smoke was the result of incomplete combustion of the seafoam and gas mixing in the cylinder. If that were the case you'd get the same large amount of smoke every time you use it. However, I retreated my engine 5000 miles after the first treatment and got almost no smoke (this was at about 70K total miles). Which tells me that the product reacted with something in the engine during the first treatment that was no longer there during the following treatment. I treated the car again at around 95K miles and once again got a moderate amount of smoke.
Sorry for the rambling, I’ve been at a conference in Orlando for the past 5 days and I’m not really sleeping well in this hotel room…so I’ve got time to ramble
I had an engine full of emulsified oil from a head gasket leak.
I cleaned it out by thinng some cheap oil with kerosene about 50%.
I kept a close eye on the guages and a close ear for knocks.
I rinsed and repeated with less kero and a new filter then eventually I did about 100 miles on a full sumpfull of clean oil.
One more oil change, the good stuff this time, and a new filter and it's been fine ever since.
Just saying you can cut your oil with a solvent or detergent safely if you're careful.
I know a bloke who flushes his 360 Chrysler with neat diesel at every oil change.
I wouldn't recommend that but it appears to work.
But then you can't kill those old Mopar engines even with a big stick.
I too wonder how much a new engine would smoke. Mines got 12.5K on it, so its not exactly new. But, I'm going to run some through it this weekend hoping to smooth out the rough idle that the dealship says they can't find. I'd take some pics to give everybody an idea of the amount of smoke involved but I'm to embarrased to do this in day light. I ran some through my '02 Mustang GT a few months back (40K miles) and it smoked. Alot. So much that most of the neighbors all came out of their houses to see what the hell I had cought on fire this time.
I got back into town yesterday hoping the the dealership would have addressed all my issues (road noise and wobbling sound from the tires, rattling airbag cover on passenger side, rough idle). Nope. They did the force balance (free of charge!) but still lots of noise. They said they couldn't get the air bag cover to rattle when they were driving it. Some issues I could understand them having to identify before fixing, but a loose rattling air bag cover? Sometimes you've just got to trust the customer.
Last edited by bridge; Oct 12, 2006 at 07:05 PM.








