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Hello everyone. Its been awhile since I posted any questions. I have a 01 CC, with 7.3 PSD and the manual trans. It is a completely stock vehicle with just under 50,000 on it. I mainly use it for towing a camper and a trailer for the local school band.
My first question is to those with the manual trans; what is the average miles you all have had to change your clutch? What type clutch is recommended? I ask because I am noticing a bit of slip when pulling.
Second, I see alot of posts regarding chips, tuners, programmers. First, do any of these cancel the warranty? I work for a local law enforcement agency and was just assigned a new Ford Explorer. I noticed in the warranty manual that it states that any such addition will basicallly cancel the warranty coverage. I have searched for this topic before and it seems to be bit of difference between different people with different dealers. Anyone with a truck still under warranty, who has a chip tuner etc, and has any dealing with Ford on this topic what has been your experience? Thanks.
Clutch life is directly dependant on how the truck is driven. Lot's of highway miles and not much stop and go = very long clutch life.
Lot's of stop and go and/or pulling a big trailer = shorter clutch life.
My factory clutch has 75,000 miles on it and it still grips just fine but I think that the hub is coming apart and need to replace it ASAP. There is a shuddering in OD under load that I can manipulate if I pump the clutch pedal. So I am going very easy on the clutch right now until I have the time to get a new one in there.
As far as the chips and tuners and Ford: Play and Pay. Some of the dealers overlook that sort of thing and others are very hard nosed about it. If you want to preserve your warrenty, no questions asked, then don't mod the truck.
Powerstroke Modification Syndrome is a very slippery slope. Once you start you can't stop. The end result, however, is a truck that you like a WHOLE lot better than the stocker that you had.
What clutch will you put in YOUR truck? I need one and only got 30-35,000 out of this last one, (the John Deere dealer put the first 10-15,000 on before I bought it) I cannot say how they treated the clutch but I USE the H@$# out of this truck, I just turned around on the Pa. Pike with 30,000 gross (truck and trailer) and returned home when it started slipping at top gear with the power band kicking in at 60 mph. I have a chip on the lowest setting. Thanks Reid
What clutch will you put in YOUR truck? I need one and only got 30-35,000 out of this last one, (the John Deere dealer put the first 10-15,000 on before I bought it) I cannot say how they treated the clutch but I USE the H@$# out of this truck, I just turned around on the Pa. Pike with 30,000 gross (truck and trailer) and returned home when it started slipping at top gear with the power band kicking in at 60 mph. I have a chip on the lowest setting. Thanks Reid
This is the one that I am getting for my truck. I have removed all performance tunes because the last time I was out with the trailer the engine ate the OD bearing for lunch. So I'll never need any more than this. It's stronger than the factory clutch to begin with, and the factory clutch was able to contain the power that my engine made. http://carolinaclutch.com/ShowItem/108877.aspx
I run a LUK and it's been great for me. It is a really nice setup. Make sure you get one of these Kevlar pilot bushings. Make sure. Buy it in advance if you have to. Do not use the factory style roller bearing. There have been a lot of problems with them and none that I know of with the Kevlar.
I also run the DP-Tuner chip with a switch that allows for multiple programs. If you're worried about whether the dealer will give you trouble, go and talk to the service manager and see what he says in advance. A lot of dealers chip trucks themselves. Just find the right one.
Well, I am making headway. So far most have recommended the SouthBend 1944 OFE for my application. Man you gotta love the information/ learning that the little pile of electronics ( my computer) on my desk can generate. As far as the Kevlar bushing, it's a no brainer for me, thanks for that input. Even the recent leaking petcock on the fuel filter has found a cause/ solution here.
What mods did you remove? Do you want to sell them? I would like guages, air intake and exuhast. Ironwood.
All I did was remove the Tow/Haul tune from the ECU. Everything else remains.
Nothing is for sale. The Predator has some great diagnostic tools built into it as well and I want to keep it for that.
Has your 5" exhaust really helpful? I am considering air intake and exhaust. I think the payback should be fairly quick as I do run 15,000-25,000 per year in the rig hauling loaded trailers and logs locally. Where did you get the 5" from?
Has your 5" exhaust really helpful? I am considering air intake and exhaust. I think the payback should be fairly quick as I do run 15,000-25,000 per year in the rig hauling loaded trailers and logs locally. Where did you get the 5" from?
Ironwood
Not really wanting to highjack a clutch thread.
5" is mostly for bragging rights and a very distinct sound. 4" will do you just fine.
Click on my signature where it says "5"exhaust". There's a link at the top of the page that shows my system.
i thought that luk was the best because u can buy a larger fly wheel from them and a clutch that is a smaller version of a peterbuilt clutch they make, just what i heard though...
I put a Southbend Con OFE clutch in my truck when I pulled the trans last winter to replace a bad throwout bearing. (Turned out the pressure plate fingers were bent, pilot bearing was shot, etc) I haven't pulled anything heavier than a 18' walleye boat with it yet, but I haven't noticed any problems yet.