Yeah, stuff my get loosened, but failure is inevitable if the fluid is not changed and a flush is not performed. However, the "powerflush" that some transmission companies advertise is a death sentence to not only these trannies, but most other makes as well. They will run fine at first (no better than a gentle flush) but could be damaged from the adventure. I knew a guy who had a power flush done on his 1994 B4000 and it had severe transmission damge and failed less than a year later. When it was opened up, it was found that metail particles had been washed into the torque converter, as opposed to being flushed out. This is impossible with a gentle flush. The particles likely came from another vehicle, since the machine that performs the flushes is not often cleaned. Someone should sue these companies for their "power flush" service.

 

Searching Bear Cub,
Thank you for the understanding given by your experience with your ol' '87. It sounds like that van had some rather poor maintenance in it's past. Mine, meanwhile is a '96, purchased in '02, had a trans fluid and filter change at time of purchase at 71,000 miles and again Sept. '05 at 116,000 about 10,000 miles ago. I just recently started experiencing the worsening trans slipping while cold.
I just did a band adj. today, following the manual specs. Backing off two full turns left it 3/4 of a turn tighter than the original position.. I took it for a test drive about a mile and experienced shuddering in all gears on acceleration. I then relieved it 1/2 turn and got rid of the shuddering. No slipping yet, however I will try it out cold starts for the next week or so and see if slipping or delay is still there.
Thanks.

 

My daughter had her honda civic automatic power flushed by some slime. Used wrong fluid. transmission is now wrecked. cost her 35,000.00 for new car at 112000 miles.

Never have a transmission power flushed. follow manufacturers advice. Who knows better?

Ken

 

96_4wdr -- copper 90680
Have started the gentle flush procedure today. Got 10 qts. Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and a 10 oz. bottle of Lubeguard Red. Dropped the pan-it was lined with blackish sediment/coating- fluid was brownish- hard to discern discoloration on dipstick-- emptied out about 4 1/2 qts., refilled with 4 qts. can't get good reading on dipstick, but think it is still overfilled. Used new neoprene pan gasket-- worked like a dream- no gnarly boxed gasket to wrestle with the hole line-up. Took a test drive to mix the old and new fluids and check if Overdrive gear shift shudder is still there. It is!
Maybe should have never messed with band adjustment-- OR my Haynes manual is correct in specing 3 1/2 turns back off, not 2 as Chiton's recommends. Will call them in the morning and see what they say. Meanwhile, I backed adj. screw an additional 1/2 turn, and test drove--seemed to be a slightly less shudder going into 4th at 45-50. or maybe just my imagination.
Hope to start the qt. out-qt. in flush tomorrow- have located ATF coolant line hose connection in the middle of the front end with a screw type clamp on it. Much better than messing around near the radiator what with spinning pulleys and that.
Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks guys.

 

I wonder if the band adjustments you made aren't causing more than one gear cluster to be engaged or partially engaged at the same time, causing the shudder you're feeling. I don't know exactly how these transmissions work, but could there be something jamming one of the bands, preventing from releasing when it is supposed to.

Just some random thoughts.

 

is it OD 3>4 shift shudder or TC shudder?


from Ford Service manual cd
Band Adjustment


Intermediate Band Adjustment

CAUTION:
Install, but do not tighten, a new locknut (388307-S100) on the adjusting screw (7C492). Apply petroleum jelly to locknut seal.

34. Tighten the adjusting screw (7C492) using the Band Adjustment Torque Wrench Set T71P-77370-A.

NOTE:
The wrench will click at 14 N-m (10 ft-lb).

35. Back off the adjusting screw (7C492) exactly two turns and hold in that position. Tighten the locknut (388307-S100) to 47-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb) using a 19mm wrench.

Overdrive Band Adjustment

CAUTION:
Install, but do not tighten, a new locknut (388307-S100) on adjustment screw (7C492). Apply petroleum jelly to locknut seal.

36. Tighten the adjusting screw (7C492) using the Band Adjustment Torque Wrench Set T71P-77370-A.

NOTE:
The wrench will click at 14 N-m (10 ft-lb).

37. Back off the adjusting screw (7C492) exactly two turns and hold that position. Tighten locknut (388307-S100) to 47-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb) using a 19mm wrench.


standard 1/2" torque wrench is not accurate down at 10 lb ft reading....get a transmission tw or a 1/4" drive low range tw
something that 10 lb ft is mid range for device


o Slipping fourth gear.

Possible Source(s):
§ Check overdrive band adjustment.

Action(s) to Take:
§ Reset band to 2.0 turns.

Possible Source(s):
§ Overdrive servo damaged or leaking.

Action(s) to Take:
§ Check cover seal and piston assembly -- replace if required.

Possible Source(s):
§ Polished or glazed overdrive band or drum.

Action(s) to Take:
§ Service or replace.

Torque Converter Clutch Test

NOTE:
Engine coolant temperature must be above 53°C (128°F) and below 116°C (240°F). This temperature can be obtained after approximately 15 minutes of highway driving. Since most torque converter clutch shifts are difficult to feel (much less noticeable than a 1-2 or 2-3 upshift) a tachometer and/or vacuum gauge must be connected to the engine.

To check the torque converter clutch for engagement/disengagement, drive the vehicle at approximately 80 km/h (50 mph) and, while maintaining this speed, tap the brake pedal with the left foot. The engine rpm and vacuum should increase when the clutch disengages, with light brake pedal application, and decrease when the pedal is released and the clutch engages. If the torque converter clutch does not engage, see Diagnosis portion of this section.


http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/at/bl-at-47.htm

 

96_4wdr,
Succeeded in removing 2 qts. ATF from coolant ret. line. Cannot get a reading on dipstick when warm, idling, in Park, on level surface. With engine shut off, dipstick reads way high, at least an inch or more over crosshatch?? Cannot gauge how much to put back in, and wanna leave room for last shot of Lubeguard Red. Added back 1 1/2 qts. but still no reading.

 

Hi Eddie:

To check the oil level, the engine has to be running and you must cycle through all the gears, waiting a few seconds at each position. Then, put it in Park and check the level. But beware that sometimes fluid will stick to the wall of the tube, making the reading falsely high. Best to wait a while after filling for all the fluid in the tube to drain down.

If you read way high when the engine is not running, that means your Torque Converter has been leaking back down to your tranny. That's no good.

 

just keep draining and added 2 quarts until you get to last 3 quarts...
then drain 1 quart...add Lubeguard...drain another quart
add a quart....check level while running....if on stick>run 5 miles till hot....top off to mid range on cross hatch....check in a week
there will be a level difference running and engine off=higher....ATF drains back from VB, tranny passages and servos with engine and tranny pump off
also ATF expands, Fords are spec'd for hot measurement
many imports are spec'd for cold measurement
many new rigs do not even have any way to user measure ATF level...shop only and/or monitored by PCM

 

96_4wdr ,copper,
With engine hot, having gone thru all ranges, in Park, engine idling, I wipe dipstick clean and dry- insert all the way to seated position, draw out and it is DRY except for a slight amount on edge of stick above qt.holes(2)to past the words "don't fill if"(above crosshatch, etc.) the tip is dry as is the backside of the stick. After shutting off engine, immediately sticking again, it is wet from tip to past the words 'crosshatch', like way overfull.??? Van shifts and moves fine thru all ranges except occasionally does not move in '1' or 'DR'.
Took it out for a few miles night before draining out 2 qts. and it performed well but didn't get a chance to go above 40 to check O.D. shudder upshift. Backed off band adj. another 1/2 turn totalling 3 1/2 turns (Haynes rec.),to see if I could eliminate shudder, but haven't test driven b/c of fluid level reading problems and occasional no go. Your reply about TC draining back into tranny has me concerned. Any ideas what's going on? Thanks.

 

Update and thanks---
xlt4wd96,copper, et al. - I suspected the fluid level was low, so I added another 1/2 qt., also added Lubeguard Red. Have had only one minor slip at takeoff while not fully warmed up, but have not had any delay or slip when cold since. Still very cautious. Starting to see the wisdom of your recommendation to do Gentle Total Fluid Flush! Thanks for the good advice. Now, if I could only get rid of that nagging 3-4 shudder that I caused myself to suffer by monkeying around with the Overdrive band adjustment! I've backed it off all I dare-3 1/2 turns-. Nothing's ever simple.

 

Well, just took my van towing, and performed like a champ. I installed a tachometer to get a visual confirmation of TC lockup, and so long as I kept it locked in overdrive, it took every hill flawlessly without overheating. If it came out of lockup, I would shift it down to third. Mine doesn't shudder and shifts smoothly, exept it is sometimes rather rash when shifting from Overdrive to Drive at freeway speeds. I'm guessing that is normal, can anyone here confirm?

 

khantyranitar,
I'm not certain its "normal' to have a harsh OD to D downshift at highway speed, but mine does the same thing if it is under a load such as pulling a long grade at high elevations. I've just adjusted my driving style to pop it down to D the first time it acts up or to go to D before going up into the mountains around here.

 

Khan:

Sometimes, depending on how steep the hill and how heavy the loads are, the automatic downshift from OD to D or from 4th to 3rd can be pretty "violent" on my van. It depends mostly on the rpm when that occurs. The lower the rpm, the smoother the shift. I usually just get my foot of the gas and shift it manually from OD to D or to 2nd if need be.

 

Ok, it was under load. So i guess that is normal, and I should take precautions to avoid it. I will shift into drive before going up steep hills.