TC Drain
Just heard there's a hex bolt on the Torque Converter that will drain the TC when removed- flywheel must be turned to 6o'clock position- on the big Fords. Does manual show any such thing on '96 A'Star 4.0? It would be great to get all the old ATF out before the flush. Why leave any old stuff in when the objective is to get rid of all the old.

 

I've seen that diagram in the service manuals, but have never seen the access port nor a TC drain on any Aeros that I've worked on. The only thinkg resembling an access port is the starter hole, but all the TC's I've seen had no drain plug. They must be on older models.

This is why folks on this forum talk about the "gentle flush" to try to get out as much of the old fluid as possible.

 

most auto manuf's did away with the TC drain plug years ago....bean counter savings

new ROI rage is no service ATF changes for life auto trannys....RIGHT
no removable tranny pan...no owner accessible filter....no owner accessible fill hole....no drain plug...no dip stick to check level
throw away tranny

 

Oh curses! This just started to happen to my 91 2wd! I backed out of the driveway OK, but then got nothing when I put it into DRIVE. Then shifted into REVERSE, nothing. Back into DRIVE, nothing. Finally, I give the engine a little gas, and DRIVE finally engages, with an expected clunk like you would get if you shifted into gear with the engine at high idle. After this, van seemed to drive normally.

Fluid level is OK, and fairly new, no leakage at vacuum modulator. Van has about 137,000 miles. What can I check next? Band adjustments?

 

xlt4w90
Band adjustments are just what I'm considering doing first. Chilton's recommends tightening adjusting screw 10 ft-lbs.,then loosening 2 turns. However, they warn not to allow the adjustment screw to back out b/c the band strut could fall into the transmission assembly and cause extensive damage. The procedure is not so simple for me as the Haynes manual specifies backing off 3 1/2 turns on 4.0 L engine for Overdrive band ?? Overcoming the precautions, this should be a fairly simple and quick step. I'm hoping this will do the trick. However....
Since I haven't done this step, I cannot advise . Only relay what the manual says. Also, you have to pick up a new locknut for each band(2) and tighten it 35-45 ft-lbs. holding adjusting screw in position.
One driving technique I have employed in the meantime is to resist the urge to step on the gas when I don't get engagement or slipping. Why let it slam into gear at high idle? (Save the pieces!)

 

I just took my '94 into the tranny shop to have preventive work performed. When they droped the pan, there was a lot of sludge, mostly fine grit and some metal powder. The shop owner said that it was consistent material with normal wear, but it is quite possible that the fluid has never been changed. It has 122,000 miles and has been used to tow. Anyway, getting new fluid filter, nice gentle flush, and the modulator is being replaced. He wants me to keep an eye on it, because he says there are signs that the front seal has leaked before, and that if it starts leaking again, it may need to be replaced. I am not overly concerned, because I have not seen any spots left on the driveway, and the fluid level seems to stay where it should be. I am not brave enough to service my own tranny, but I found these guys who seem to be honest and reliable. Have had 5 of our vehicles serviced by them, all with satisfactory results and pretty descent prices.

 

1) There is no T/C drain plug on the Aerostar.

2) For old 4.0L A4LD, the overdrive band and intermediate band are different, hence a 2 turns on one and 3.5 (or 4.5 ??) turns on the other for adjustments. Newer 4.0L A4LD have identical bands for both, so the 2 turns will work on both.

3) XLT4WD90: I guess you would need the tranny jack again? Just let me know if you do

 

khanty,
throw in a bottle of ARX click...to present ATF...
has very effective safe ester type cleaners
run 1000 miles to clean
this will remove all the old worn off friction material from clutch packs and bands, varnish and thickened old ATF from ATF passages thru out tranny and in valve body....
valve body varnish and goop build up with resulting valve sticking and binding is the major cause of catastropic tranny failure, in 2 gears at same time...nothing like having tranny trying to do 1st and reverse at same time....slow valve movement also causes higher rates of band and clutch pack wear

do a gentle flush with 10 qts of top line quality ATF and add a 10oz bottle of Lubeguard "Red" or "Platinum"

 

The tranny is working great, it just hasn't been serviced for a very long time. One other thing that the shop said they found that would suggest the fluid was never changed was the gasket was the original type cork gasket. I don't do tranny work myself if I can help it. Everything seems to be working smoothly so I see no reason to add anything to the tranny. The shop wants me to bring it in in about 6-8 weeks and they will check for any potential trouble, and if all is well, I will have them drain and flush again, and replace with synthetic tranny fluid.

 

glad you are going to flush and do a complete change again and refill with syn ATF

 

copper90680
Being a '96, I'm hoping that's considered a newer 4.0 A4LD which is two(2) turns back on the Overdrive band? I'm ready to give it a try. Had to locate a new locknut. Parts store and Ford dealer do not carry it. Readily avail. at Tranny supply dealer ($2).
Thanx.

 

When I said newer, I'm talking about '91 or so. Of course '96 is new for us Aerostar owners

For tranny parts, go to your local tranny shop. Much better price and availability. Good luck.

By the way, the only reason you need a new locknut is for the seal. I just goop up the old one with RTV (what else!) and put it back on. Never leaked!

 

Copper,

If I were to drop that transmission, it would be for the major internal work that really bad symptoms would imply. It's not that bad now, so I'm not ready to do that, and hope that I won't have to. Maybe it's time for a full flush and filter change. I've never done this one.

On the other one, where I did the full fluid drain and installed Mobil 1 ATF, the shifting got noticeably quicker and firmer.

 

xlt4wd90,
I have rec'd a bit of counter- information to the full flush from a parts store man(Advance Auto Parts) who says he has worked on Aerostar transmissions at a Ford dealership. He says the pumps usually get weak and don't put out the pressure as well when cold, and changing the fluid will worsen the problem as the grittier old stuff grips better on the bands, clutches, etc. He's recommended the band adjustment first(Overdrive only for this problem). After that, the tranny has to be pulled to repair the pump and also replace the seal there. Upon inspection, I have seen a slight blackish residue at the front of the trans,where there may be a slight seal leakage.
Thanks for the tip on using RTV on band adj. locknut. I don't know how I would fully remove it while holding adjusting screw still. Don't wanna back off adj. screw and let the strap fall off into the transmission.Horrors!

 

spikeddie,

That information from the Autozone parts person still leaves you back at square one - To flush or not to flush.

I'd look at it this way - If you don't do the flush for fear of loosening the gunk, the transmission will accumulate more and more gunk, possibly breaking down because of it and leading to expensive internal repairs.

If you go ahead with the flush, you *might* cause some problems, but by and large the experience of the owners here is that it solves more problems than it causes.

I was in a similar position with the A4LD on my old '87 Mustang 2.3L automatic convertible (Slow as a DOG!) when I bought it for $250. It would move, but the tranmission would momentarily fall out of gear on hard acceleration and then grip again, so much that the rear tires would bark.

I took it to my mechanic, who agreed with me that the transmission fluid desperately needed a change. He also gave me the same "If I change it, it could possibly be worse than leaving it in" warning.

I figured that without any work done, the transmission would die soon anyway, so I had him do a flush and filter change along with adding some Lucas Oil.

During the changeout, he found half of a metal ring in the pan, but the change corrected 90% of the problem, and it drove MUCH better afterwards. I sold it a year later to 2 guys driving back across the country and it got them home, so I doubt that it ever had any serious problems again, at least no transmission related ones.