352 Into A 410
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 261
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From: Columbus, Indiana
352 Into A 410
Or a 406 at just .030 over which is what the engine is at now. It doesn't need rebuilt, I am just looking at possibilities for more power.
I have read back some threads and gotten mixed responses on what needs to be done to make this conversion. Some say the crank will fit, others say it won't.
Can I take a 410/428 crank, put it up against my 352 rods and pistons (@ .030 over) and have it work?
I have read back some threads and gotten mixed responses on what needs to be done to make this conversion. Some say the crank will fit, others say it won't.
Can I take a 410/428 crank, put it up against my 352 rods and pistons (@ .030 over) and have it work?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 747
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From: Klamath Falls OR
Bunch of BS. The crank will fit!!!! Find a 428 crank with a 390 bore will give you a 410. But if you use a 390 crank and a 428 bore will give you a 406. Go for the 410 if you can. You cant use 352-360 rods (with out custom pistons). Any FE rod will work (like 390-428 (like C3AE, C6AE so on...) You might have a hard time finding off the shelf pistons for it. JMHO
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
410 pistons are easy. Look at the Silvolite 1139, or Summit part number STL-381P. Basically all they are is 390 truck pistons.
Get a 428 crank, a set of short rods (not 352 or 360 rods), and one of the above mentioned pistons. Bore your block to 4.050". Get it balanced, put it all together, and you have yourself a 410.
Scat also makes a 428 crank if you're having trouble finding one. Rods should be easy to find from any 390.
Get a 428 crank, a set of short rods (not 352 or 360 rods), and one of the above mentioned pistons. Bore your block to 4.050". Get it balanced, put it all together, and you have yourself a 410.
Scat also makes a 428 crank if you're having trouble finding one. Rods should be easy to find from any 390.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
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From: Iowa
Originally Posted by Bear 45/70
The real 406s were 4.13" bore and 3.78" stroke. Your way works but it seems a waste of a great crank as you will be stuck with using stock heads.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
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From: Union, Washington
Originally Posted by rusty70f100
Why would he be stuck using stock heads? What's wrong with stock heads? Not trying to sound like a smart-***, just looking for a little explanation here.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
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From: Iowa
The Edelbrock heads with CJ valves will fit the 4.050" bores just fine, as they adjusted the valve spacing. Stock heads with CJ valves will fit, but it'll be very close. Best to have the cylinders notched in that case.
CJ valves help, no doubt there! But the flow data I have shows the stock 2.02" / 1.55" valves work great anyway with a little head porting.
I can post flow data and Desktop Dyno simulations if you like.
CJ valves help, no doubt there! But the flow data I have shows the stock 2.02" / 1.55" valves work great anyway with a little head porting.
I can post flow data and Desktop Dyno simulations if you like.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
Likes: 8
From: Union, Washington
Originally Posted by rusty70f100
The Edelbrock heads with CJ valves will fit the 4.050" bores just fine, as they adjusted the valve spacing. Stock heads with CJ valves will fit, but it'll be very close. Best to have the cylinders notched in that case.
CJ valves help, no doubt there! But the flow data I have shows the stock 2.02" / 1.55" valves work great anyway with a little head porting.
I can post flow data and Desktop Dyno simulations if you like.
CJ valves help, no doubt there! But the flow data I have shows the stock 2.02" / 1.55" valves work great anyway with a little head porting.
I can post flow data and Desktop Dyno simulations if you like.