Advise on Interior
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
The mylarized bubble wrap has gotten poor reviews in longer term use on other sites, thermal performance is not that good in headliner service. The roofing products are Peel N Stick and an unnamed product by the same company that is without the foil. They don't work under roofs for long, the adhesive just isn't made for that. Works super on floors but again its adhesive limits it to "gravity assisted" applications.
Here is an excellent site with tests of Dynamat competitors:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Here is an excellent site with tests of Dynamat competitors:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Wow, this thread has taken on a life of it's own. I appreciate the advise I've read so far and will probably drive without a headliner for awhile until I figure out which direction I'm going. I have some insultator left over from the floor which is the kind which has foil on one side and will probably put that between the roof and headliner when I get to the final installation.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
Step 1: Install your three-point seat belts.
Step 2: Drive your truck like you stole it!!
Step 3: Someday, install your headliner, interior and insulation.
Note: The Rod Doors headliner comes with a very nice piece of insulation included. Also, the holes where the bolts for the seat belts can be cut later. You can make a diagram to pinpoint the location with a piece of cardboard set against the rear window on one side and the frame of the door on the other.
Step 2: Drive your truck like you stole it!!
Step 3: Someday, install your headliner, interior and insulation.
Note: The Rod Doors headliner comes with a very nice piece of insulation included. Also, the holes where the bolts for the seat belts can be cut later. You can make a diagram to pinpoint the location with a piece of cardboard set against the rear window on one side and the frame of the door on the other.
Admom
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,414
Likes: 201
From: Silver Springs
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
I decided to go with the RAAMmat.Sorry to bring up an old post but we don't have enough people in the 1947 & Older forum to advise us or lead us in the right direction
.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 21,984
Likes: 9,838
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Carlene,
Well, I can attest to the fact the this group will gladly tell you where to go and exactly how to ge there............(well, at least they are always telling me where to go)
Just kidding, the more the merrier
Bobby
Well, I can attest to the fact the this group will gladly tell you where to go and exactly how to ge there............(well, at least they are always telling me where to go)
Just kidding, the more the merrier
Bobby
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Carlene, for the most part the year of the truck has little to do with how and what to use to solve a problem, so feel free to come here as often as you'd like for help and advice. We just won't be able to help you much with cross springs, torque tube drive, wishbones and such earlier pre war technology.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Monterey, Indiana
Seawullf Are you trying to stay orginal. If not look at a mid 80's( or later) seat with the seat belts in the seat. This gives you the shoulder and lap belt no holes. This is what I will be doing with mine. Just make sure you give yourself a really good anchor job on your seat.
Max E
Max E
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Monterey, Indiana
Seawullf Are you trying to stay orginal. If not look at a mid 80's( or later) seat with the seat belts in the seat. This gives you the shoulder and lap belt no holes. This is what I will be doing with mine. Just make sure you give yourself a really good anchor job on your seat. Also you don't have to pay for a seat covering!!!
Max E
Max E
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,575
Likes: 36
From: Greenville, SC
We used RAAMmat in our 60, it worked great! We did the entire inside (including the entire inside of the doors), it looked like a miro-wave oven. Much quieter ride and the stereo sounds great. Total cost for the dampener and sound proofing was about $400.
Admom
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,414
Likes: 201
From: Silver Springs
Thanks for the imput Walston. It looks like a good product for the money and its not like the truck's gonna be sitting out baking in this Florida sun all the time. Its always nice to here from someone that has actually used a product you just purchased.
Bobby, I visit this forum enough to know that "you are not kidding". In all seriousness, I lurk around here for the entertainment value. Good thing you guys haven't figured out how to charge admission.
AXracer - is that greek you're speaking????
Bobby, I visit this forum enough to know that "you are not kidding". In all seriousness, I lurk around here for the entertainment value. Good thing you guys haven't figured out how to charge admission.
AXracer - is that greek you're speaking????
Admom
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,414
Likes: 201
From: Silver Springs
Originally Posted by Walston
We used RAAMmat in our 60, it worked great!