Advise on Interior
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Advise on Interior
I have had my 1956 Custom Cab for about 18 mos and am itching to try and start it and drive it. It hasn't run in over 15 years and I am really close. Here is the dilema. I need to put seatbelts in and a new headliner. I am looking at the one from Midfifty which is ABS and covers the B pillars where the shoulder mounts would go. If I put them in now and install the new headliner, in he future when I complete all the body work and such and want to get the whole truck painted including the interior, will I have screwed that up by doing the new headliner and seatbelts first. I have put a lot of work into this truck and kind of want to drive it for a while before "finishing". What I don't want to do is create more wasted time and expense by having to redo something I have already done by having to take it apart to paint it. Maybe there is no good answer but hopefully someone else has been down this road before. Thanks.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 828
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, Indiana
I dont think it would hurt, Headliners can come back out, yruth is I drove mine for a year before putting in seatbelts or the headliner, I would say drive it and enjoy it, get your game plan, then put the money into it.
Kyle
Kyle
Clean & Classy
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,656
Likes: 20
From: Riverside CA..
I think you are creating more work for yourself down the line by installing headliner before paint. However if it is going to be a long time in between, it is doable(is that a word?)
Maybe you could get just the interior areas that are going to be exposed in the end painted for now, and the exterior later?
Maybe you could get just the interior areas that are going to be exposed in the end painted for now, and the exterior later?
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 1
From: oh
Seawolf-hi and I am in the same mode as you.I would get the interior parts mocked up and then wait till paint time.Personally,I work this way-get all interior in and figured out-then remove and sand and do the bodywork/prime/seal/paint and unmask and sand/buff and when all the messy crap is over--install the mid-50s interior ,etc..I have my 56 ford EPOXY primered and then black high build primered,then I retro-fit my parts and if they do not interfere with paint I install and mask .I am having my carb rebuilt for my 272,and when it gets back I will try to start my 56 for the 1st time since 1988.It was from GEORGIA,with 21,000 miles and a F600.I removed the flat-grain bed--it is so nice!!!but want to make the 56 into a car-hauler with a roll-back set-up.I think my WIRES WERE OUT OF SEQUENCE--and the carb leaked so -hopefully will run ---let me know how you do and if yours runs good----Bill
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,734
Likes: 2
From: Kansas City area
You don't need a headliner to drive it. It would be worthwhile to clean the inside metal and apply some insulation material to help with the heal/cold and noise. This could be removed when you get to the point of painting. I have used the 3M spray adhesive and the quilted aluminum roll insulation at Home Depot or Lowes to do a temporary driver.
As for the seat belts I would recommend considering the shoulder/seat belts for more safety and this will probably require some welding for anchor points.....definitely something you want to do BEFORE painting. Just my .02 worth.
As for the seat belts I would recommend considering the shoulder/seat belts for more safety and this will probably require some welding for anchor points.....definitely something you want to do BEFORE painting. Just my .02 worth.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,497
Likes: 5
From: Tucson AZ
I am kind of in the same boat with the headliner, I am looking for a molded plastic 'liner that I can cut to fit around my newly formed rear window and the roof console. I would be interested in a broken liner or one without the side parts, I didn't mean to hi-jack the thread but this may be a good forum while everyone is thinking about it. Good luck to seawulff and thanks to the rest of you.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 1
From: oh
fatfenders-I don't know where to find a headliner ,but all the catalogs out there--should be something.Did you insulate first?I am thinking of it.I want the self-adhesive kind to cut and put all over the cab ceiling -floor-walls.THANKS
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: oh
LEckart-how did the insulation work?I will check out the home depot stuff/lowes insulation.That is my next step.--WELL-GOING TO THE HOT ROD SHOP--HA HA!!to primer the frame and finish the door panels.-
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Tim, why don't you give rod doors a call direct? I'm sure they'd be willing to sell you any individual part you want. Not likely to find a broken one as ABS is very tough and easily repaired if someone managed to break it.
BTW Rod doors is moving their operation to Rocky Mount NC about an hour from here. I need to visit and see if I can convince them to make panels for Panels.
BTW Rod doors is moving their operation to Rocky Mount NC about an hour from here. I need to visit and see if I can convince them to make panels for Panels.
Last edited by AXracer; Oct 6, 2006 at 12:09 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Have you talk with them yourself? Sometimes suppliers are much more flexible when it's the customer doing the request, especially if you sent them pictures of your truck since it definitely will be magazine feature material when completed.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Kansas City area
Walford's56-
The insulation is a med. or light duty being only +/_ 1/2 inch thick but it does help. Comes in a roll about 36" wide. You could also add some cheap sound deadening material. You can't beat Dynamat but it is an expensive item and for a alternate you could consider the self adhesive roll type material found in the gutting department at Lowes or Home Depot for gutter repair. It is about 6-8" wide and about 1/8" thick. Looks like a tar base material and does help. I have used it directly on the metal panel (must be clean), then installed the quilted insulation over it. Good luck.
The insulation is a med. or light duty being only +/_ 1/2 inch thick but it does help. Comes in a roll about 36" wide. You could also add some cheap sound deadening material. You can't beat Dynamat but it is an expensive item and for a alternate you could consider the self adhesive roll type material found in the gutting department at Lowes or Home Depot for gutter repair. It is about 6-8" wide and about 1/8" thick. Looks like a tar base material and does help. I have used it directly on the metal panel (must be clean), then installed the quilted insulation over it. Good luck.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
There is two types of the roll insulation I have run across: One type is like super heavyduty bubble wrap with shiny mylar on both sides, the other has a layer of thick felt between the mylar layers. The former is lighter and waterproof so IMHO would be good inside headliners and doors whereas the latter is quieter for use on floors and firewalls. There is a product very similar to dynamat sold at the DIY stores for roofing use primarily north of the MD line as "ice dam preventer" it a rubberized self stick mat with foil on the non-sticky side.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Originally Posted by WALFORD'S 56
fatfenders-I don't know where to find a headliner ,but all the catalogs out there--should be something.Did you insulate first?I am thinking of it.I want the self-adhesive kind to cut and put all over the cab ceiling -floor-walls.THANKS
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,288
Likes: 1,053
From: NM
Originally Posted by AXracer
There is two types of the roll insulation I have run across: One type is like super heavyduty bubble wrap with shiny mylar on both sides, the other has a layer of thick felt between the mylar layers. The former is lighter and waterproof so IMHO would be good inside headliners and doors whereas the latter is quieter for use on floors and firewalls. There is a product very similar to dynamat sold at the DIY stores for roofing use primarily north of the MD line as "ice dam preventer" it a rubberized self stick mat with foil on the non-sticky side.
Here is an excellent site with tests of Dynamat competitors:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/