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head gaskets or.....?

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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 06:37 PM
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Red face head gaskets or.....?

Hello,
ok I recently put the timing belt on my 2.3 and my husband didnt tighten the thermostadt housing good enough. by the next day it was starting to get hot and I pulled it over and waited, put water in radiator and kept it around 40mph. I was only 10-12 miles from home, so I was determined to get this thing there. When I was in the last 3 or so miles, it really didnt sound good in lower gears, almost like cross between a broken/loose spark plug and just a really hot block .
So, I get it home, I dont even touch it til the next day. I checked the spark plugs, all look good, the oil was recently changed and is still nice and golden buttery and I put brand new coolant in it. She was dry, steam cleaned itself with all it had. Checked the codes got a p0171. So, on that note, I turn it over, fires right up, but is pouring enough white smoke out the tailpipe and underside of truck it looked like some kind of disco fog machine.
My question is do I let it run and get up to temp. and see if it clears up, or do I need to change/check something before I run this thing? What do you guys think?
 

Last edited by 005h4rp; Oct 5, 2006 at 06:41 PM.
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 09:57 PM
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Well it sounds like a blown head gasket, maybe warped or cracked head or block, from overheating.

The "white smoke" is probably steam. So I wouldn't run it anymore until you can verify just whats wrong.

I'd begin with a compresion test on the cylinders & maybe a blow down test & cooling system pressure test & see if you can determine where the leak is.

Let us know what you find.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 11:33 AM
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Ok, sorry it took me so long. Well, the gasket ok, looked pretty good. The rest of it well, thats another thing. This poor truck.... #3 piston had 1/8th in. carbon stuck to it, which is'nt too surprising, I was throwing a misfire code from that one. The block looks good but the cylinder head is a post toasty. It wobbles on the ground, not alot but enough cause any bit of wobble on flat ground is bad news. Cyl. 1&2 bear 2 cracks each and the valve on #2 looks like the foot of any 3 toed mammal. Rings are shot, etc..
So, long story short, this one is gonna take a little more than a gasket, unfortunately. New head and accompanying parts, some misc. hoses, fluids, etc. can revive her.
So, looking at a few options here, what engines are compatible with the M5OD and will fit? I'm taking this thing out anyway and it may be cheaper and better in the long run to just do a swap. Any suggestions or info is always appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 11:40 AM
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im not totally sure, but i think the only that will bolt the a m50d with the 2.3 bolt patter is a 2.3l, the 3.0 has a bolt pattern all to its own, and the 2.8,2.9.4.0.4.0sohc, all have the same pattern but they are cologne v6s.. not alot in common with the mazda 2.3.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 12:33 PM
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Thanks, I just thought I'd ask. I located a couple potential local 2.3 candidates, but figured if doing an entire swap, may as well check out any other eng. that can work with this trans.. If that is the case, that I'm limited to a 2.3, I'll just rebuild the one I got. I think total cost is gonna settle this one though (still in process of figuring out). Thanks again for such a quick reply.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 12:53 PM
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Unless your going to do all the work your self, sounds like a rebuilt, or crate long block engine, might be a consideration and they'll have a warranty!!!!
 
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 01:34 AM
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Thanks for the reply....yeah, I am gonna be doing it myself. In trying to decide which route to go, I found only one 2.3 locally. So, if another type will work with the M5OD, that may give me more options/ better turnout. I'm up for rebuilding, no problem, but if I can get a decent complete for the same it'll cost to rebuild, I'd probably swap. A long block will fit and work? Which one?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 06:04 AM
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Pawpaw was talking about a 2.3L longblock I'm sure. This is basically an engine replacement like you have. The term "longblock" means it comes with the head, "shortblock" is the block, without heads.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 08:41 AM
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Yup, Bob explained it better than I did.

Seeing as how your engine apparently overheated so badly as to warp the head, you'll probably need another one or extensive machine shop work done & who knows what other hidden damage was done in the block & what kind of machine shop work would have to be done to put it right!!!!

Check around with your favorite autoparts stores & your Dealer, you may be pleasantly surprised what you can get a long block engine for & as I said it'll come with a warranty too!!!!

Basically all you have to do, is transfer the bolt on's like, manafolds, accessories, fuel rail, ect, from the old engine block, to the new one.
 
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