hi i have a 1987 bronco 2 efi (injection) and i have so much problems with it map and maf sensor need to be changed O2 sensor needs to be changed and many more. so i said to my self insted of wasting time and money i should just change the intake in stick in a carb but now how do i know if i can fit a 1986 bII intake and carb on my 2.9 efi ?
plz some one help me the bII has been siting there for about 7 months and i am runing my 1989 honda accord witch im fed up with.

 

This question actually comes up quite frequently. And the answer is always, "you can't simply bolt on a 2.8 intake and use a 2.8 carb." Basically, there are no bolt on intake swaps for the conversion you want, and there are no aftermarket "kits" to easily make this conversion. If you have the skills and resources to make your own intake from scratch, you'll be able to figure something out. If you don't have access to someone with those kinds of resources, you'll probably be better off fixing the EFI.

Another comment: Did you generate this list of sensor that need replacing, or is this from someone else? Obviously whoever has diagnosed these problems hasn't done so correctly, because an '87 2.9 never came with an MAF sensor.

My best advice at this point would be to get a proper diagnosis.

 

no ur right there is no maf sensor but but i have a obd obd2 scanner well its not really a scanner its more like my laptop with a scan tool box and the software digimoto to read codes and practicly all the sensor are screwed up i. i did all the sequeces to test all sensor and its not the wirering an neither the ecu because i changed it so.
im just fed up rinung my accord and want to run the bronco again.
i have one question though i though about maybe just removing the throtle body and installing a vertical carb direcly on the plenum would that work ?

 

i forgot to say if i do what i said i would isconect the injectors wires to the ecu.and i would put a aftermarket fuel regulator.
now winter is coming fast and dont want to spend another winter with my front wheel drive i rather use my 4x4.

 

I haven't heard of anyone doing anything like that, but, if you have the know how to make it work, go for it. Anything's possible with enough time, money, and human ingenuity.

Just one thing, you've talked about how you'll handle fuel delivery. EEC-IV computer is also involved in controlling spark timing. The computer uses information from many, if not most of those sensors, to determine how much to advance the timing. If you disable them all, then you're going to need to find some other way to get proper timing advance.

 

well i herd that i can just unplug the injectors wire and pu a resistance between them (just put a OHM meter on the injector to see how mnay homes it gives and then put a resistance of the same value between the wires)so that the ecu doesent even notice the injectors are unpluged but for the other sensors i thingk the ecu changes the timing advance only buy temperature and rpm. If not then ill have to find an distributor that is controled buy vacuum and that fits the on the block buy the way im amazed how fast i get answers on this forum. ITS GREAT THX.

 

It most certainly needs more than ECT and RPM to calculate timing advance. It also needs engine load indicators such as TPS and MAP. That year 2.9 also had a knock sensor that was used to detect pinging and retard the timing. Here again, I don't think you're going to find a bolt on replacement distributor. As with the intake, I don't think you can just use a distributor made for a 2.8. Again, you're going to be mostly on your own as far as finding a distributor and making it work on the 2.9. As before, anything is possible with enough time, money, and ingenuity.

BTW, I forgot to mention, if you have an automatic transmission, the torque converter lockup clutch (TCC) is also controlled by the EEC-IV computer. When you take all that stuff out, you'll want to figure out how to control the TCC (if that's important to you).

 

If you're dead set on getting rid of injection (though no doubt it will be a less efficient, more expensive way to fix your problems), why not just ditch the 2.9l for a 2.8l w/a non-feedback carb, and a Duraspark ignition system? I'm not saying that you SHOULD do this, only that you COULD do this. That being said, why get rid of a reasonably efficient, reliable, relatively simple engine management system for one using outdated technology, that is less efficient, and that has many more potential problem areas than EFI? Just because any monkey with a set of wrenches can work on a carburetor, doesn't mean they're better or more reliable.

 

the thing is im thinking of rebuilding the whole engine with edelbrook kit 2 heads intake cam shaft and pistons but there is one thing i know is that 2.9 are fragile engines and the 2.8 were german engine thats was really reliable and tuff i knwo this rebuild could cost alot but i could swap a 302 but the thing is gaz$$$$$$$$$$$ and its even more expensive to fit a 302 than rebuilding a 2.8 the truck is worth it its has 135 000 kilometers no rust and trans and diff and eveything is in good condition so thats why i want to invest in it
i already put alot of money on it like 36 in dirt tires and air suspension and the body was redone all over (sand blasted then painted)

 

buy the way its a manual edelbrock 5 speed trans

 

2.9 is actually also a german engine built in the same "cologne" family as the 2.8. I'd be interested to know where you got the idea that the 2.9 is a fragile engine, because most people I've heard say the 2.9 is also a pretty tough, reliable engine (other than it's tendency to crack heads if it's allowed to overheat).

Have you thought about just pulling the 2.9 out and putting a 2.8 in there?

 

Well, the 2.8l and the 2.9l are from the same family, but you're right in saying the 2.9l is more fragile, relatively speaking. The 2.8l is commonly referred to as "the sewing machine", they aren't quiet by nature, but are durable and buildable. However, they aren't a cheap engine to build, performance parts are only built by a select few companies, so when you find them they will cost you. On the other hand, there are some build differences that make the 2.8l a solid engine, IE, gear driven cam (2.9l is chain drive), mechanical lifters w/adjustable rocker arms (eliminates the pesky and dreaded 2.9l lifter tap), and heads that are much more solidly built. The 2.8l would be a bolt-in to the trans and motor mounts, and since they can use Duraspark and a carb, they have relatively little wiring. But I still think you'd be further ahead financially to fix what you have.
BTW, contrary to popular belief, the 2.9l is a VERY solid dependable engine if correctly maintained, just change your oil and maintain your cooling system correctly and it will serve you well for MANY miles. My last 2.9l is running strong with absolutely 0 lifter noise or oil consumption at around 180,000 miles untouched!

 

First thing if all or almost all of the sensors are showing up as bad, your problem has virtually nothing to do with the sensors. Throw the code reader away, it's not doing you any good and probably doing more harm than anything. (man I hate those things, keeps people from actually diagnosing the problem). Almost everytime you have multiple sensors throwing codes, it's an easy fix, you have a ground problem, so before doing anything else to this vehicle start checking ALL of the grounds, start at the battery although probably not the problem, next, engine to frame strap, engine to body strap, under the dash ECM to body grounds (I believe there is 6 of them, you need to check each and every one of them) one or more is most likely corroded, broke, or just plain needs replaced.

 

weel i dont think ground would be the probem since i had the code telling me that the maf sensor was faulty and i opened mitchell on demand 5.8 and followed the instruktions echeck voltage between ground and sign return and all that ) and finaly it was the maf sensor faulty so i changed it and that code never showed up on the scanner again since .i have redone the whole wirerig from the ecu to all engine components even then tail lights lol
every single wire behind the dash was redone like this (slice wire,solder them together and put heat shrink on them) so even with a new wirering i keep having the problem.(startup the truck runing weird then seems like its runing too rich if u open the throtle a litle bit the exaust is black.
i cheked vacuum too and i have -24 psi so i guess its ok so now my last hope is that tomorow il go check if maybe an injector isint bloked open.
just buy turning the engine on and back off and check in the presure room after the regulator if i still have presure after like 10 minutes.

 

Have you checked your fuel pressure regulator? That can cause your engine to run
rich and rough. The Haynes manual tells about how to check the pressure.