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If "set it at 32 degrees at 2,700 rpm's", hope you checked the maximum advance until you hit the limit stop. Is this 2,700 against the stop or still floating? Mechanical and vacuum should be tuned to the motor installed not what some shop spun it as this is just a starting point spec. There's a lot more you can get out ot the motor should you work at it.
It stops advancing at just over 2700. I think it was operator error using the light. I guess I didn't understand what the owner of the light told me to do. I started the truck with the light turned up to 32* instead of setting it to 0* and then turn it up after you get to max advance. By doing it like that we were getting the high readings. My fault.... It seems to do a little better set at like 12* initial and close to 36* total.
12 degrees has always worked very good for me, as initail timing. If your closer to sea level or running a very hot cam, The engine might like a different initial timing.
How does the engine start at 12 degree initial (base) timing?
This one way of very verifying if initial timing is ideal.
The total timing (degrees) at 2700 rpms must be verified. Sometimes it lower and sometime it higher then 38 degrees. The internals within the distributor housing can be adjusted to where you want the total timing set at. It seems the manufacture has set the distributor timing at 32 degrees total timing as mentioned for some reason. Maybe, it the size of cam? What was their determination why they used 32 degrees total timing?
There are people or members here at the forum running some healthy engines, and could relate what total timing has worked for them, or what setup would be appropiate.
What are the specification of your engine?
Every engine is different, engine build, compression ratio, heads, machine work, intake, carburation, and etc..., this all attributes to what the engine has stored. The engine will take some adjustments to bring out the maximum potential of the engine.
The engine was a 360 when we pulled it from the truck. I got a 428 crank, Silvolite pistons, ported and polished C7AE-A heads with the CJ valves, Comp 292H cam and lifter kit, custom pushrods, Comp roller rockers, ported and polished Edelbrock Streetmaster intake, Hedman 89100 headers, and a 750 Holley. The block was decked to .003 under, a Mr Gasket .038 thick head gasket to get quench right, the heads were shaved flat (about .010), and I had the motor internally balanced. I think the compression ratio is about 10.7-1 with about a 8.57-1 static or dynamic I can't remember which is which now.
As far as why they said set it to 32, I'm not sure. I told him it was a 410 and he said with that big a cam I should not use the vacuum advance and try to set total at 32.
I haven't had time to tinker with it anymore this week, but hope to get to soon. Hunting season is in so my time is short.
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