Oil weight change ........?
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2006
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From: Sanford Maine
Oil weight change ........?
I have been in maine about 3 years now. , But prior to I was in houston Texas for 19 years. I had a 89 3/4 ton down there and ran 40 wt. in the winter (if you wanna call it that) and 50 wt. in the summer. I figured with all the highway and heavy traffic miles in the texas heat it was ok. I now have a 95 ford f-250 w/118,000 miles, 4x4 and I plow a little with it. What I am wondering is--- is it ok to run a heavier oil in hot weather and a lighter wieght in cold weather ? Does this do more damage than good? No one ever told me to do this I just always had older work trucks and never nothin new and thought it was a good thing., so, any opinions-thoughts on this will be appreciated. thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Running Springs CA
What engine in the '95 F-250? 15W-40 is the thickest I could imagine using in it, and I would try 10W-30 first, and only go heavier if there is high oil consumption. I did try straight 30 summer and 10W-30 winter in the '94, and also tried 15W-40 all year. Since it had a bad seal, oil burning was impossible to measure.
Jim
Jim
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: So Cal
Maine gets bloody cold in winter. I would go with a 5W30 in winter unless the engine was worn or burning oil. I prefer syn but with your miles, I would just stick with a good dino. If it gets much below 0F I might even go with a 0W20 or 30.
In summer I would probably still stick with 5W30, that is what multi vis oil is for, but if your engine is tired I might go 10Wsomething or 15Wsomething. I would probably stay away from a 20W50 since that is way too thick for an engine in good condition, and in winter it is like taffy in the pan.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
In summer I would probably still stick with 5W30, that is what multi vis oil is for, but if your engine is tired I might go 10Wsomething or 15Wsomething. I would probably stay away from a 20W50 since that is way too thick for an engine in good condition, and in winter it is like taffy in the pan.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
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Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Northern California
Randolph, your thinking is closely related to oil technology from the early to mid 60s!! Why not also remove a spark plug wire, retard performance, and make your engine work much harder than it needs to?
With your '95, use a quality 5w30, 10w30, but nothing else. I'd run 5w30. These oils will easily take the heat. Emission controled engines are built for these lighter viscosity oils. You are doing much more harm, than good, with running a 40wt or 50wt straight oil.
Even with snow plowing, your engine is working MUCH harder with that thick 40wt oil, then add the added stress of snow plowing? Don't do it/.
Also, with the cost of gasoline, 40WT oil will reduce your fuel mileage by as much as 40%. If you have an engine, that say, will give you 15 MPG, why run an oil that will give you no more than 10.1? If you enjoy spending more for your fuel, adding fuel more often, it's your business.
Unless your engine is a worn, piston-slapping, loose oil burner, blowing blue smoke out the tailpipe, I would cease using 40wt or 50wt immediately. You are doing a modern engine, No favors with a straight-weight lubricant.
5w30, even with snow plowing. It's done all over the Snow-belt, USA. Ed
With your '95, use a quality 5w30, 10w30, but nothing else. I'd run 5w30. These oils will easily take the heat. Emission controled engines are built for these lighter viscosity oils. You are doing much more harm, than good, with running a 40wt or 50wt straight oil.
Even with snow plowing, your engine is working MUCH harder with that thick 40wt oil, then add the added stress of snow plowing? Don't do it/.
Also, with the cost of gasoline, 40WT oil will reduce your fuel mileage by as much as 40%. If you have an engine, that say, will give you 15 MPG, why run an oil that will give you no more than 10.1? If you enjoy spending more for your fuel, adding fuel more often, it's your business.
Unless your engine is a worn, piston-slapping, loose oil burner, blowing blue smoke out the tailpipe, I would cease using 40wt or 50wt immediately. You are doing a modern engine, No favors with a straight-weight lubricant.
5w30, even with snow plowing. It's done all over the Snow-belt, USA. Ed
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Freshman User
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From: Sanford Maine
thanks for the replys all. My truck doesn't smoke and makes no noise so I guess I will stay with the lighter oil. It only uses about a 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart between changes. Its a 5.8. thanks again all
5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2006
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If the vehicle is left outside, in Maine during the winter, you will benefit from the Castrol 0w30 or Mobil1 0w40 oils. Esso in Canada also has 0w30 and 0w40 oils if you're near a border store.
Another option is the 5w40 oils which will work well enough year round. Castrol, Valvoline, and Rotella have excellent 5w40's.
Regardless of oil chosen, you'll also benefit from oil pan and/or coolant/block heaters. You'll appreciate the hassle of the extension cord with a quick to warm vehicle.
And, I'll always recommend a synthetic over a mineral oil for those northern winters.
If you're stuck on mineral oils, use the 5w30 for the winter, and 10w30 or any 40wt during the summer.
Rislone sells a pour point depressant called WinterStart that can be added to any oil to aid in cold oil flow. I know some that like to thin their oils with Marvel in the winter. But, IMO, any of the newer GF4/SM 5w30 oils should work well enough in the winter without additives.
Another option is the 5w40 oils which will work well enough year round. Castrol, Valvoline, and Rotella have excellent 5w40's.
Regardless of oil chosen, you'll also benefit from oil pan and/or coolant/block heaters. You'll appreciate the hassle of the extension cord with a quick to warm vehicle.
And, I'll always recommend a synthetic over a mineral oil for those northern winters.
If you're stuck on mineral oils, use the 5w30 for the winter, and 10w30 or any 40wt during the summer.
Rislone sells a pour point depressant called WinterStart that can be added to any oil to aid in cold oil flow. I know some that like to thin their oils with Marvel in the winter. But, IMO, any of the newer GF4/SM 5w30 oils should work well enough in the winter without additives.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Northern California
Good job, Randolph! I apologize if I seemed a bit hard on you with my reply. It was not my intention. My main concern was you Ford F250 (1995) getting the best possible performance. Also peak gasoline fuel mileage, an engine will deliver.
Also, I tend to agree with DeadRX7. You should run a good synthetic oil, such as Mobil 1. 0w30, 5w30, in Canada during the winter.
Regardless, all you have to do is put a 1/2 quart of 40HD oil, a 1/2 quart of 5w30, in your freezer over night. 12 hours or more later, note which oil you'd rather have in your Ford's oil pan, for the starter to have to turn over, a cold crankshaft to have to turn in, and which oil you'd rather have to pump to the top part of your engine.
It's an easy choice, trust me. Post often, Randolph...
Ed
PS I also like Rislone's "WinterStart" product. Generally, I refuse to use any type of oil additive. This one from Rislone, and also Valvoline's "SynPower" is two I have no issues with, adding 15 ozs. or about a 1/2 quart to the total oil capacity.
Also, I tend to agree with DeadRX7. You should run a good synthetic oil, such as Mobil 1. 0w30, 5w30, in Canada during the winter.
Regardless, all you have to do is put a 1/2 quart of 40HD oil, a 1/2 quart of 5w30, in your freezer over night. 12 hours or more later, note which oil you'd rather have in your Ford's oil pan, for the starter to have to turn over, a cold crankshaft to have to turn in, and which oil you'd rather have to pump to the top part of your engine.
It's an easy choice, trust me. Post often, Randolph...
Ed
PS I also like Rislone's "WinterStart" product. Generally, I refuse to use any type of oil additive. This one from Rislone, and also Valvoline's "SynPower" is two I have no issues with, adding 15 ozs. or about a 1/2 quart to the total oil capacity.
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