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cleaning the beast

 
  #1  
Old 10-01-2006, 03:06 AM
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Talking cleaning the beast

so tomarrow im going under the truck to try and clean off all those years of nasty tranmisson oil and what not drippings. if anyone could give me any idea on what would make this easyer id like the help.
 
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Old 10-01-2006, 03:00 PM
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a pressure washer..........yeah youll get all the crap all over you, but its well worth it!
 
  #3  
Old 10-01-2006, 07:12 PM
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I just bought a new pressure washer. Would it be a good idea to hose down the bottom/frame and spray it with rubber undercoating? When I had caliper problems a while back I noticed that the frame was starting to rust, would that rubberized spray take care of it? I have about 4 cans left over from when I restored my horsetrailer. Seems to be holding up nicely. Any thoughts?

-Dave
 
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Old 10-01-2006, 07:29 PM
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for a frame you should something like zero rust, por 15, or rust bullet. i just used zero rust on my frame and it looks asome. i would use something that you brush on because you can put it on alot thicker that spraying it. all i did was remove the bed wire wheel the framepower wash degrease and than paint. i have heard bad things about rubberized undercoating i am not sure if it is true because i have never used it i chose the zero rust over it.
 
  #5  
Old 10-01-2006, 09:27 PM
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Undercoating tends to dry out and loosen from the surface it is supposed to protect.
Once it loosens, it traps dirt and moisture against the metal.
The more dirt you have trapped, the more moisture you will have trapped as well.
Moisture and steel are not good things to have trapped together.

I would use Rustoleum paint before I used undercoating.
Brush application does give much better coverage than spraying.

Por 15 or Rust Bullet I have read about and both look like very good products, expensive but good. I have never read about Zero Rust, but it must be on the same lines.
 

Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; 10-01-2006 at 09:30 PM.
  #6  
Old 10-01-2006, 10:40 PM
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i really like the zero rust product i have used both zero rust and por 15 and i like the zero rust because it is easy to work with unlike por and it is about half the price $15 a quart $45 a gallon. i just painted my frame it looks really good and it is really duarable.
 
  #7  
Old 10-02-2006, 11:26 AM
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I like Hammerite. It is about 1/2 to 2/3 the price of what you're paying for Zero Rust.

PLUS it gives that "hammered metal" textured finish (great for hiding imperfections), it can be painted right over rust, and it will neutralize whatever rust is already there...
 
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Old 10-02-2006, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by CheaperJeeper
I like Hammerite. It is about 1/2 to 2/3 the price of what you're paying for Zero Rust.

PLUS it gives that "hammered metal" textured finish (great for hiding imperfections), it can be painted right over rust, and it will neutralize whatever rust is already there...
Where can you find Hammerite and what does it cost? Is it available at any auto parts store?
 
  #9  
Old 10-02-2006, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave7.3
Where can you find Hammerite and what does it cost? Is it available at any auto parts store?
Not sure in other parts of the country, but around here it is available at Lowes and Home Depot. Like I said, it is about 1/2 to 2/3 the price that BrownieBoy525 was quoting for ZeroRust - about $7-$10 per quart for the brush on.

It also comes in smooth finish, and spray cans.
 
  #10  
Old 10-02-2006, 02:50 PM
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i have never heard of hammerite i will have to try it on my next project i like that its only $10 a quart. i was going too use por on my frame but then i seen the price of it and i just couldnt bring myself to spending $45 on a can of paint no matter how good it is so thats why i chose zero rust too bad i didnt know about this stuff thanks cheeper.
 
  #11  
Old 10-02-2006, 03:07 PM
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You're welcome BrownieBoy525.

I use it on ALL my fab work projects. It goes on thick and the dimpled finish does great at covering grinder marks and such. It takes a week or so to fully cure - though it dries hard enough to touch in just a couple of hours. When fully cured it is "glass-hard" (their description), very shiny and quite tough.

You do need to be aware that the hammered finish "black" isn't really black though - more of a dark charcoal gray. The smooth finish stuff is pretty much true black though.
Try it, I think you'l like it.../
 
  #12  
Old 10-02-2006, 06:30 PM
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Hi,

i have many experience with hammerit, but they are bad.
Yes, hammerit is cheap, but when you want prepaire your car for years, you must buy many more hammerit later.

I work with 4x4 cars and trucks, we prepaire them for the Sahara, Rally events or for work in forrest, sierras, snow...
The hammerit is ok for 1 year, no more. flying stones an fast flying insects bring more and more holes in the paint, and the rust is working under the paint.

Now we only work with Por15, and our customers and myself are very lucky, because this material is good for a long time and ok under all bad conditions.
Por15 is a real hard stuff, stops the rust, it will be harter and harter with air moisture, no scratches or bubbles.

Josh
 
  #13  
Old 10-02-2006, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by LaPuente
Hi,

i have many experience with hammerit, but they are bad.
Yes, hammerit is cheap, but when you want prepaire your car for years, you must buy many more hammerit later.

I work with 4x4 cars and trucks, we prepaire them for the Sahara, Rally events or for work in forrest, sierras, snow...
The hammerit is ok for 1 year, no more. flying stones an fast flying insects bring more and more holes in the paint, and the rust is working under the paint.

Now we only work with Por15, and our customers and myself are very lucky, because this material is good for a long time and ok under all bad conditions.
Por15 is a real hard stuff, stops the rust, it will be harter and harter with air moisture, no scratches or bubbles.

Josh
Very interesting Josh. That hasn't been my experience. Rocks will chip it, but I've certainly never seen Hammerite (or any other paint) damaged by flying insects. Naturally anyplace the paint chips, rust will form. However I've not had any significant problems with rust getting under the surrounding painted surface. In my experience that happens less with Hammerite than it does with other paints - though I've never tried using POR.

One of the nice things about Hammerite is that, since you can paint right over rust, any rock chips that do start to rust are very easy to fix - just paint another coat right over them. Like I said, I've had nothing but good experience with it, and I have stuff I painted with it YEARS ago that is still looking good.

Were you using the brush-on or the spray cans?
 
  #14  
Old 10-02-2006, 08:35 PM
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Hi CheaperJeeper,
i used hammerite with different methods, pistol, brush, spray and rollers.

I dont no why our expierences ar so different...

i know some people with good experiences with hammerite, and many people with bad experience.

This with the insects is real.

We have big and hart flying insekts, i don't now the name in english, when they crashed on the bumper and you take it off, a good many times you lost a slip of the hammerite paint.

For example my Discovery, with the same bumper, but painted with only one layer of Por15, i have no problems in this.

Or the chassis, flying stones make lost the hammerite, so i clean the hassis completly from the hammerite, paint it with Por15, only one layer, and it's like new since 2 years.

My experience with hammerite is, it's real ok for static metal things in the garden like chairs and so, but my image is, it's not god for vehicles by reason of vibrations and many movements.

Josh
 
  #15  
Old 10-03-2006, 02:45 PM
86 F-250 Diesel 4X4
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So, pressure wash the underneath of the truck, degrease, grind any bad spots on the frame and then hit it with one of the three products (hammerrite, POR, 0 Rust) and then paint??

This may be a dumb question, but I'll ask anyway -- since the body is on the frame with all the parts, pieces, lines, etc.......do I just cover it all with one of the three products doing the best I can??
 

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