Water leaks into cab
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From: SC lowcountry
Water leaks into cab
Recently have had a pretty good water leak into cab of 95 150 S/C on driver's side. Started by finding plastic bushings on door striker bolt split and not letting door close completely; replaced and adjusted door to close snugly.
Still leaking - tried hose while in cab upside down and noticed water leaking in at bottom of steering column boot metal clamp. Took it loose and cleaned clamp and boot (boot was ok). Started checking bolts in the firewall since 2 of the 3 boot clamp bolts were not tight and found the top two nuts for the power brake booster were loose but the bottom two were very tight.
Still trying to dry out the carpet and firewall insulation so can't know if the leak is fixed yet.
Any thoughts and experience on this leak would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Still leaking - tried hose while in cab upside down and noticed water leaking in at bottom of steering column boot metal clamp. Took it loose and cleaned clamp and boot (boot was ok). Started checking bolts in the firewall since 2 of the 3 boot clamp bolts were not tight and found the top two nuts for the power brake booster were loose but the bottom two were very tight.
Still trying to dry out the carpet and firewall insulation so can't know if the leak is fixed yet.
Any thoughts and experience on this leak would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
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I don't have any experience with this leak, but I know how to dry one out. Got a friend that buys cars at auction, fixes them up, and sells them to JD BYryder. He typicaly pulls out the seats and carpet to power wash and shampo them. After hanging a day the carpet and seats, goes back in. Then he sets a dehumifier inside, the car and closes all the windows. He emptys the water pan every few hours, and in about 48 hrs it is dry.
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From: SC lowcountry
Slowly getting it dried out. Had a nice day today, washed it thoroughtly with no apparent leaks. It was slow to dry, it has a plaxtic backing on bottom of carpet with insulation under the plastic. Also the firewall insulation won't come off without unbolting the world or cutting up the insulation.
The only reason for adjusting the striker was to make the door gasket seal slightly tighter. Probably could use new bushings and pins in driver's door hinges but haven't tackled that one yet. Just a slight lift on door when closing, in fact, the door striker bushings were damaged, split lengthwise, and not allowing the latches to go all the way locked. i noticed the Help pieces from Advance are slightly oversize compared to the originals - I may try some Ford bushings before I get thru.
Thanks for the thoughts.
The only reason for adjusting the striker was to make the door gasket seal slightly tighter. Probably could use new bushings and pins in driver's door hinges but haven't tackled that one yet. Just a slight lift on door when closing, in fact, the door striker bushings were damaged, split lengthwise, and not allowing the latches to go all the way locked. i noticed the Help pieces from Advance are slightly oversize compared to the originals - I may try some Ford bushings before I get thru.
Thanks for the thoughts.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: SC lowcountry
Update
Had a good slow rain today and inspected this evening; looks and feels dry as far as I can reach under carpet. Hopefully it was just the brake booster bracket being loose.
For info, I picked up some 3M Dripchek sealer at a parts store that handles paint; I had used this for sealing the bed seams on a 70 F100 when I was painting it some years ago and found it to work very well. I had noticed some small cracks in the drip rails over the doors and at the front of the cab windshield corners and it was real easy to work the dripchek sealer into the gaps and clean it up (very quickly or it will be a real pain to get off).
Anyone with some good ideas or products that will get the stain out of the carpet (light gray) would be really appreciated. So far carpet shampoo and naptha haven't touched it.
For info, I picked up some 3M Dripchek sealer at a parts store that handles paint; I had used this for sealing the bed seams on a 70 F100 when I was painting it some years ago and found it to work very well. I had noticed some small cracks in the drip rails over the doors and at the front of the cab windshield corners and it was real easy to work the dripchek sealer into the gaps and clean it up (very quickly or it will be a real pain to get off).
Anyone with some good ideas or products that will get the stain out of the carpet (light gray) would be really appreciated. So far carpet shampoo and naptha haven't touched it.
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