This is set #4 of front rotors on my 03 CC, The dealer has put 3 sets on under warranty. No more warranty at 41k. I have a new set of Wagners to go on, but I hear that slotted and cross drilled rotors and sever duty pads are the way to go. They are suppost to last longer and not warp as easy as the stock ones. Also is there any truth to the rumor that the ABS system has to readjust after towing, the towing throws off the bias?

 

pappyross,

Yes unfortunately the SD brakes up until the 2005 model year were undersized in most peoples minds and brake problems, rotor failures are quite common.

Many people have switched to the Powerslot rotors with cryo treament and hawk pads.

Do a search for SD brakes in the forum and you will get a list of many threads to read.

Here is a link to one supplier and they are also an FTE sponsor.

www.buybrakes.com/

Others will be by shortly with there positive feed back on upgrading the brake rotors and pads.

Haven't heard about having to readjust the ABS after towing. But others with more knowledge on this will be along.
Hope this helps

 

blackhat620,
If you switch the fronts to the Powerslots do you have to the rears at the same time?
I don't want to create a new prob.or does it not matter.

A clairification! I was told that the ABS had to readjust itself after towing to correct the brake bias.

 

pappyross,

You can do just the fronts, it won't upset the balance with the rears. Most people have posted they change the rotors when the old ones wear out. Since the fronts do most of the work the rears which are smaller than the fronts generally last longer and can be left stock or upgraded in the future.

Basically by switching to the power slots and hawk pads you are getting a better quality rotor and pad setup that dissipates heat better than the stock and gives improved braking performance and increased rotor and pad life.

Now if you really want to spend alot of money Brembo, for one, makes replacement rotors and calipers that are larger, i believe you have to install larger rims (not 100% sure of this) to clear the larger rotors and calipers. They work well but are really expensive and most people have found the Power slot and Hawk pads to be a great improvement.

I have never heard anything about the ABS having to reset after towing. I was under the impression the brake system continually adjusted automatically as the load and road conditions changed. But as i said you bringing this up is the first i have heard of it, and that in no way means that what you asked is not true, just that i don't have any info on it.

I am sure someone will be a long with more knowledge on the ABS system and be able to answer your question about it.

Hope this helps

 

blackhat620 has it right. The Powerslot and hawk pad setup is really one of the best for the $$$. I started off with the rear setup first...as those brakes needed replacement first. Then a few months later...upgraded the front. Been very pleased thus far!

FWIW: I did purchase from our FTE sponsor www.buybrakes.com. If you look in the Vendor Specials, Discounts, Product Announcements and Group Buys forum...you will find the discount to FTE Users.

Link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum173/

IMHO...if you are thinking of replacing the rotors, do not go with cross drilled rotors. These tend to crack over time...and for the SD application the slotted is much better.

NO knowledge on the ABS question...but interested to see what the other folks will contribute there.

biz

 

Thank you blackhat620,
I did the search and found many, many discussions on this topic lots of info.
I all ready have the parts for this job but next time and I'm shur it will be soon,I'll go with the good stuff.
I read that many had trouble getting this covered under warranty, My fisrt set was easy at 9k, the second took some work and then the service manager realized I was going to show him the gum stuck to the bottom of his desk is when he dicided to replace them at 20k. The Third set thats a story: After the service manager ran away from me at the dealership where I got my truck,I went to the dealership where the Muncipality (please no shovel leaning jokes) I work for purchased over the years, 23 crown vics, 1 F-150, 3 f-350s 2 F-550's and played that trump card. It worked and I sqeezed out the third set at 28k.That set lasted untill now.
Besides the brake issue Ford rebuilt the rear diff at 8k and 12k. By 20k all the sqeeks rattles and compaints were settled, then at 28k the brakes again ( I think my truck was built on a Fri afternoon)

 

pappyross,

Wow!
4 sets of brakes in 40k miles is a lot. Do you have a lot of weight on the truck or tow regularly?

 

Blackhat620,

The truck is empty my daily user, I only tow the Rv trailer (6800lbs) about 15 times during the summer, mostly 2hr trips. Thats why I started asking around and got told about the ABS issue and the brake bias (this came from a Ford tech. he said the system had to relearn after towing????), also was told Ford just used crap metal in there rotors, the brakes were engineered to small.
This last set warped and no one would cut them because of the rust pitting.

 

If you have did alot of research on the brake posts .you have then seen some of my answers to the brake problems.
Your brakes/calipers need just as much attention as if you were changing the oil in your truck ,
Most common problem is caliper pin/slides never get lubed until to late ,causes sticking and the brake pads never back away from the rotor,thus this is one way your rotors are getting warped.Also if they get worn the keep the pads skewed which is a reason the stick.
Along with the other ways you have read about.

I have 63 k on orignal pads and rotors on a 02 f250 that tows 5 k two times a week and is a daily driver also,not alot of stop and go traffic though ,which helps them last.
But I do preventive mait. on them often.

As far as I know there is no relearning in the abs system it is based on wheel sensor feedback to the module .It will activate based on input every time depending on what the wheel sensors give it as input.
Now there is a special way of bleeding a abs system though .You would need a manual or we could lookit up for you .
Rich
Good luck with your brakes.
Rich

 

pappyross,

Forty answered most of the questions i was thinking when i asked about weight. Sounds like 1 or both calipers are hanging up. This has been an issue as Forty pointed out. When you redo the brakes i would replace the caliper pins and lube them well. Then i would periodically relube the pins as Forty suggested. I think i would check them at least at every oil change to make sure they are not sticking. Also i believe there is a TSB that says specifically not to resurface the rotors but to replace them at each brake replacement. This is do to the fact that the rotors become to thin at resurfacing and cause them to warp and fail even faster. Now i do know people have resurfaced the Power Slot rotors but they seem to be able to handle this at least one time with no adverse effects.

And yes the brakes were engineered to small and the people with the Excursions really have had problems do to the increased curb weight over a pickup.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

Forty & Blackhat
Took the time today to do the front brakes, when I got to the right side, I found the inner pad jambed in the braket, took a hammer and drift to get it out. Don't know why! After cleaning it up I dry fit the new pad and it was fine. I made shur every moving part was cleaned and lubed before assembly. I'll check the slides next lube job.
Maybe now I'll get more than 12k out of the rotors. Thanks for the info!!!!