Out here in South Dakota it is starting to get cold. Most nights it will get down to 40-45 degrees. Some nights down to 30 degrees! Anyhow, when I go to start my truck in the morning it takes 2-3 tries holding the key for about 5-7 seconds. I allow plenty of time each try for glow plug cycles as well. I have tried giving it some fuel but still no help. When it does start, it throws out a huge cloud of white smoke. I have been adding diesel additive/cleaner (found Diesel Kleen at Wal-Mart lol). Once she gets running she is just fine. Glow plugs were checked only a few months ago too. The injection system seems to function just fine as well. Any suggestions? Here in a few weeks I plan to do an overhaul so suggestions now would be a great help.

-Dave

 

Sounds like your GP's aren't heating up long enough. White smoke is unburned fuel. I would either change the plugs or add a heater to your system. I had the same problem. I added the heater to the lower Radiator hose,(one that circulates). I then plugged a timer into the wall socket so it comes on about an hour before I get ready to go start the truck. I now have instant heat when the truck is started and I only have to crank the engine like a normal start.

 

My 93 fires right up when the weather hits 32 F around my parts. It actually starts better around this temperature as the glow plug controller glows the plugs longer.

Double check your glow plugs. It is an easy test. All you need is a 12V test light and follow the procedure below:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...=1#post3548618

Try disconnecting the Cold Idle Timing Advance Solenoid for a few days. I found on older IP's not advancing the timing during cold starting actually makes the truck start better. Just pull off the second wire closes to the firewall on the drivers side of the IP and keep it off. You will need to keep the wire off for a few days and then should notice a difference in cold starting. I had a post on this about two weeks ago. Here is the link:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...connected.html

Lastly, It is quite common for air intrusion problems to start surfacing when the weather turns cold as the return orings and the rubber return lines harden with the colder temperature. Once hard they start leaking at the joints and let air into the fuel system causing starting problems. When did you have your return lines and O-rings replaced last? They need doing every 8 to 10 years as the rubber components just harden and start to leak.

Hope the above helps....


Seb.....

 

You could have one or more of the GP's going weak or bad that will throw the controler way off on the time to stay on.

Also you could have a controler going bad. Once I had a controler which would fire right on the first time then wouldn't some times. Found a bad ground on the controler bolt going to the block. I added a ground wire from the battery to the controler ground. Haven't had any problems in years.

 

I'm having the same cold start problems Dave7.3 and spoke with my mechanic this evening. My mechanic said almost exactly what Hamberger said! My trucks going into the shop next wednesday for diagnosis and most likely GP replacement and a fuel line bleed.

let us know what you find.

bart

 

I think the major problem is how you may be starting it........this info is general the maxi fuse is on the 92+.......

Glow Plug Controller
The solid-state Glow Plug Controller, attached to the top of the engine block, controls the Glow Plug pre-glow and after-glow time. It also controls the circuit's operation by sensing engine temperature, Glow Plug voltage and after-glow voltage from the start/run circuit.

When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, voltage from Maxi-fuse K is applied through the Glow Plug Controller to the Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp.

The Glow Plugs heat up in zero to fifteen seconds, depending on engine coolant temperature. After the Glow Plugs heat up, the controller cycling switch opens and turns the Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp off. The Glow Plugs are now warm enough for the engine to be started.

At the same time the Ignition Switch is turned to RUN, voltage from Maxi-fuse K is applied to the after-glow timer (located inside the Glow Plug Controller). The after-glow timer cycles the Glow Plugs for up to two minutes, depending on engine temperature. The after-glow timer then opens. The Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp will not light during the after-glow period.

If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF, it can be turned to ON immediately, and the Glow Plug heating cycle will start again.

Diesel Start/Run
The diesel engine uses two batteries to provide extra power for starting and glow plug heating. Power is applied from the batteries, through heavy gauge wires, to the Starter Solenoid (located in the Starter Motor assembly). When the Wait-To-Start Indicator goes out, the Ignition Switch can be turned to START.

With the Ignition Switch in START or RUN, voltage is supplied to the Fuel Heater, Fuel Shutoff Solenoid, and the Engine Temperature Switch through Maxi-fuses K and U.

The Fuel Heater is in the Fuel Filter/Separator. It heats the diesel fuel, melting any wax that might clog the filter. The heater has an internal thermostat to turn it on as needed.

The Fuel Shutoff Solenoid controls the flow of fuel into the injection pump. With the Ignition Switch in START or RUN, the Solenoid is energized, and fuel is allowed to flow into the injection pump. When the Ignition Switch is turned off, the solenoid is deenergized, fuel flow stops, and the engine stops running.

The Engine Temperature Switch provides voltage to the Cold Timing Advance Solenoid and the Cold Idle Solenoid. When the engine temperature is below 112 °F (44 °C), the Engine Temperature Switch is closed. When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, the solenoids are energized, advancing injection pump timing and engine idle, allowing the engine to run more smoothly when cold. When the engine temperature reaches 112 °F (44 °C), the Engine Temperature Switch opens. This denergizes the solenoids, returning the timing and idle to normal.

To start turn key on press fuel pedal to the floor, then if above 30*F hold at 1/2 throttle, if below 30*F hold at 3/4-full throttle start engine. Once started release the fuel pedal to the fast idle setting or feather pedal to keep running.

 

PLC7.3 you are the "Posting Guru" happy your on our side!

 

Looks like both trucks are 91s.

 

Thanks for the imput guys. I plan to start tearing her down and fixing her up here soon. Now that I have a few ideas of what all needs fixing it should be a little easier. Also, sorry about the late posting, was helping a friend with a little fencing work these past few days.

-Dave

 

i have experienced problems with cold weather starting. instead of watching the red light, i watch the volt meter. while the glow plugs are heating they draw a lot of current. when the volt meter guage starts pulsing, then i hit the starter. all my problems went away when i quit watching the stupid light. it seems to go out anytime it wants to. my truck is also a 91 model.

 

I leave the door open so I can watch the dome light dim.

 

that would be another good indicator, anything is better than watching the red light.

 

When I go to start my pickup, I turn the key and pay no attention to the light. I wait and listen for a click from under the hood. That sound is the glow plug controller from what I have been told. Soon as I hear that click, I turn the key to start her up. Normally she starts right up but only recently has it been taking a few turns to get her goin. Also its maybe the fact that I haven't ran her in a few days and went to start her in the cold that might be the problem.

-Dave

 

Dave7.3 Check the fuel return lines on the engine that go between the injectors. If they are painted "gray" then replace. You might be starting to get air in the fuel system which is starting to let the fuel return to the fuel tank after a period of time. After a while you will be cranking a lot to get it started if this is the problem.

 

i have fuel lines leaking, i know that because if the engine is warm and i crank it before the electric fuel pump gets fuel all the way into the system, it will die and then its hard to start. i have learned to let the electric fuel pump run 10 or 15 seconds, before i start the truck. yea, i know i have to fix it, but i dread it.