I just bought a clean '66 truck from a friend. The VIN keys out as a F100 custom cab, but his registration reads F250. This truck has been in his family for 20+ years, and everybody has always thought it was a 250. Crawling underneath, it appears that somebody added 3/4 ton springs at some point, which makes me wonder what exactly are the differences? I wouldn't have thought you could convert between the two so easily.

F100/F250, either way I love the truck. It has lived in Southern CA all this time, has very little rust, a rebuilt 352, original 3 speed (3.54 rear axle), power nothing. My wife and I just picked it up in San Francisco and drove 850 miles home to Seattle via the scenic route - U.S. 101. The truck ran like a champ, and we had a blast. While you guys were freezing to death back east last week, we were enjoying the sunshine and spectacular scenery of the CA redwoods and OR coastline. Do not miss the opportunity to make this drive if you get the chance.

The steering on this truck is solid. I have no need for power steering (believe me, this drive would have uncovered it). I'm also fine with the 3 on the tree. I am planning to overhaul the brakes soon, and I'd be interested in recommendations short of the full-on I-beam transplant from a 70's model. No storage space for a donor, and my wife is being way too accommodating with the truck right now to push my luck. Is there a booster/MC upgrade from the primitive old single cylinder, or do you guys recommend simply refurbishing the stock setup until I decide to plunge in on a full power disc refit?

I have a number of other questions for future posts, but the brakes are my number one priority. Everything else is window dressing. Thanks.

 

I may be mistaken, but was the 3-on-the-tree tranny even available in an f200? I'm not sure it was.

I'm always interested in hearing about people finding clean old, original trucks. I have a dead stock '66 f100 Camper Special myself with only 45,000 orig. miles. It's not in the FTE gallery yet, but you can see it at:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1424418&a=10664277

Although mine's an f100, it has the 352 and heavy-duty 4 speed tranny. I think the C.S. had heavier springs, too..... further blurring the line between 1/2- and 3/4-ton models. I'm not sure what the exact differences were.

--Todd

 

What are the first 3 digit's, letter and two number's, f10 is half ton 2x4 f11 is 4x4, f25 is threequarter 2x4 ,f26 is 4x4. that should tell you what you have.

 

As I stated in my original post, the VIN indicates it was assembled as a F100 custom cab, 352 V8, in San Jose, Mar. '66. Apparently someone beefed up the springs at some point and started calling it an F250. It has been registered in CA as an F250 for many years. I have no idea when this happened. I'm trying to find out.

I'm assuming that there are other differences between stock F100 and F250 than the springs and available options. Wouldn't the frame be different? This is a long bed. Just a curiosity really. I'm pretty certain this is (mostly) a F100.

 

What kind of rear diff is in it?is it a dana 60 or an 8.8"?? does it have 5 or 8 lugs on the front wheels?

 

The rear axle code on the plate is A8, which I believe is the Dana 44. I have no knowledge that it has been changed, but I have not verified. I haven't counted lug nuts either.

 

Just a thought on the brake issue, i was going to transplant a dual master cylinder from a '72 to my 66 f100 but found that the rod that connects to the pedal needed to be shortened, which I wasn't willing to do. Also, the brake light switch problem needs to be solved. It looked as if the pedal from the '72 uses the same size (dash) pedal shaft and this pedal has the brake light switch attached to it.Rubber pedal pads are not the same. Porportioning valve needs to used from the '72 instead of the 66 when going to the dual MC. I converted this truck to a C4 and used the '72 (auto trans) pedal mounting shaft to eliminate the old clutch pedal. Easy swap with no modification needed. Stock '66 brake hoses are available over the counter almost anywhere and are easy to change.Hope some of this helps..

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 02-Jan-01 AT 08:50 PM (EST)[/font][p][FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="3" FACE="Veranda"]
Have you checked the frame for the VIN? (On a 4x4, look on the passenger side between the shock tower and the firewall on the top side of the frame rail. On a 4x2 look at the same side, top of the rail, but usually between the shock tower and the radiator support). Report back to us.
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[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]PS -- The A8 code axle is indeed a Dana 44 with 3.54 ratio and a locking differential! (That should be easy enough to verify)[/font]


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I'll have to wait for daylight to check for the VIN on the frame and look for a tag on the diff. It is definitely a locker though, with the distinctive hum and pull through the turns. It's actually one of the things I like about driving it. Of course I haven't tried it on wet pavement yet. 3.5 sounds about right for the gear ratio too. It's a bit revvy at highway speed, but not disturbingly so. The manual overdrive on the 3 speed is currently disconnected.

 

rickb! Congratulations on your "new " truck. Even better is your understanding wife! You are doubly blessed! On the brakes, (no pun intended). Machine the drums, replace the shoes, return springs and adjusters. Inspect and replace any leaking wheel cylinders and replace all three rubber lines. Flush the system (blow air through the steel lines it) add a rebuilt master cylinder and you should be back in business. later you can do the power drum/drum or power front disk rear drum conversion. A set of line wrenches and a double flairing set from Sears will help, you will need these tools when dealing with rusted steel brake lines. While your in there carefully inspect the wheel bearings and wheel bearing seals. On the rear differential clean and service the axle vent and replace the rubber hose. I tie them up under the bed to keep out excess moisture. Please post back and let us know how this comes out.
William in Atlanta

 

 

I had promised to close the loop on this post.

With regard to the VIN on my '66 F???, the number on the frame jives with the one on the door. It is definitely a F100. It has a light weight locking diff (Dana 44). Everything else is stock F100, except the springs and leafs which were apparently beefed up to 3/4 ton specs many years ago. The previous owner told his insurance carrier it was a 3/4 ton and that's where it started getting labeled as a F250 - on the insurance form. The CA state registration actually has no model designation, just the VIN. Can anybody help with the DSO #? Mine is 712211. I believe the 71 is LA, which fits the known history. 2211 must be an option package.

Brakes - which pulled badly left. I'm finally happy after 4 new wheel cylinders (3 leaking), shoes all around, rebuilt MC, hoses. Front drums were good, rear ones awful, the worst I've ever seen. I got lucky and found a nice pair at a salvage yard that turned beautifully. She stops smartly now, and straight. You wouldn't confuse it with power discs, but I'll take it.

Thanks for the advice and encouragement.

 

I believe the 2211 is a "special order number"
hey typically had a six digit dso code, which corresponded somehow with an invoice somewhere within Ford.

But here's a strange thought, could this truck have been special ordered with the heavier springs? That might have made it a special order.

Like I said it's just a thought.



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