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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

replacing glass run channel felt

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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 07:45 PM
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replacing glass run channel felt

anybody got a link on the right way to replace the mouldings on the glass run channels? tia
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 02:19 PM
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I need to find out wher to get a window run channel

Hi to anyone in the forum,
I need to find out a place besides the Ford Dealer to buy (1) window run channel for my driver side, Can anyone help?
Thanks,
Shofartek
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 02:46 PM
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I got mine from LMC but there are several other places to, even think Blue Oval Truck Parts: Truck Parts, Truck Accessories, F-Series Trucks Parts, Ford Truck F250 Accessories has them.

As far as installing the channel rubber it's a real pain but pretty straight forward. Pull the old out and install the new, it just pushes up into the channel. I did start at the corner where the upper channel meets the wing window frame. It's kind of hard to work it down inside the door along the window.
If your talking about the anti rattle strips that go inside and outside on the flat part it's a little more involved. The outside just push it down and it slips right off. Then install the new one the same way, has clips on it. The inside you need to pull the door panel. It is held on by small rivets. I just popped them off and used real small screws to mount the new on. You get the panel off and you'll see what I'm talking about. Really now rocket science just takes a little time.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 08:00 PM
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I just did my driver side the other day. I got the kit from Bronco Graveyard to do both windows.

What I did was drop the regulator so I could pull the window out of the door to clean and regrease everything and so I could easily clean all the crap out of the door and in the rear track (one bolt holds that in). I don't think any of the old weatherstrip runner was more than 4" long after removing it and all the old debris was in there too, blocking the drain holes.

Starting at the fly window top like kedwinh said is the way to go.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 08:10 PM
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Ordered mine from Bronco Graveyard aswell. If your not pulling the glass, dawn dish soap will help slid it into place.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Swatter
Ordered mine from Bronco Graveyard aswell. If your not pulling the glass, dawn dish soap will help slid it into place.


Did you do the anti-rattle strips as well? Could you post a shot of the outside one as mounted? I seem to be having a problem with the curved end being a little tweaked out of place and am wondering how it looks on another vehicle.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Swatter
Ordered mine from Bronco Graveyard aswell. If your not pulling the glass, dawn dish soap will help slid it into place.
...or waterless hand cleaner like Gojo.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Cienega32


Did you do the anti-rattle strips as well? Could you post a shot of the outside one as mounted? I seem to be having a problem with the curved end being a little tweaked out of place and am wondering how it looks on another vehicle.

I replaced the outer strip (Rock Auto) on my driver's door because it was completely rotted out, allowing rain to pour down into the door. You're right - it takes some tweaking or the window won't go up. I repositioned it three or four times before I got it spot on. I bought the inside strip also, but haven't done it yet as that one is stapled to the door panel. Need to replace the channels too.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 10:22 PM
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Thanks for that info & pic, WillieJoe - that helps my peace of mind a bit. I didn't finish tweaking that part - I was too jazzed at being able to close the door and drive over small bumps without it sounding like the house was falling down.

It's really a huge difference and it's only one door! I had absolutely no side runners at all so those anti-rattlers meant nothing at that point.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 06:12 AM
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While you have your inner panel off it might be a good time to vacuum out the bottom of the door to make sure the drains are open.

Maybe spray some Rustolem primer or cold galvanizing down there.

I stuck some duct insulation to the inside of the door skin while I was at it. That made a big difference in road noise and how solid it sounded when I shut the door.
12 in. x 15 ft. Duct Insulation-FV516 at The Home Depot
 
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
While I was at it. That made a big difference in road noise and how solid it sounded when I shut the door.
12 in. x 15 ft. Duct Insulation-FV516 at The Home Depot
Wouldn't you be afraid of that trapping water?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
Wouldn't you be afraid of that trapping water?
It's closed cell foam with a foil covering.

I don't think it will absorb water.
It's intended purpose is to eliminate condensation on air conditioning ducts in humid weather.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 12:26 PM
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I did the anti-rattle inside and out aswell. I pulled the staples drilled and riveted the new ones on, because i didnt have a stapler that could punch threw that, worked well. note there are little prongs that are used for guides to align them.


I'll try and get a few pics up later today.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 11:29 PM
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That's some good info. I hadn't thought about doing the inside strip yet and now I know what's ahead.

Just for clarification: I pulled the glass and regulator out for clean & regrease because of the total lack of seals around the windows. I'm in southern New Mexico where the winds and desert dust are plentiful. Being it's a beat-em-up truck, it lives outside and catches every bit of dirt blown at it. Plenty of that to be found in the regulator's grease and the bottom of the door, of course.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 02:35 PM
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About my run channel weather strip

Thanks I'l try that link suggested...have a blessed day!
 

Last edited by ctubutis; Mar 12, 2012 at 06:27 PM. Reason: Removed hyperlinks
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