I need some help quick guys....

2005 F-150 2WD I'm "trying" to do a brake job and remove the rotors to have them machined.

The spindle nut has "Do Not Re-use" written on it, and is so darn big I'm going to have buy a special socket just to get it off. I don't know the exact size, but it is bigger than 1 5/16", and is on there so tight (is it a stop nut?) that channel locks won't budge it.

Can I re-use the spindle nut if I get it off? The local parts store doesn't even show to have one, or even be able to get it. The dealership has a machine that turns the rotors on the truck, so they wouldn't have this problem.

What size is the nut, exactly, and can I reuse it? Are the back rotors the same way?

Thanks for your help.

 

You shouldnt have to remove that nut to get the rotors off on a 2wd. It should be a floating rotor. Lock closely, but you should just be able to tap on it a couple times to loosen the rust and it should pop right off leaving the studs and everything attached to the vehicle.

 

The studs are inserted into the rotor assembly - they can be removed with a quick couple of taps and come out the back of the rotor.

I have no idea how to get this rotor off! I only tried the front drivers side, but trust me, I hit that rotor with enough force that if it were going to slide off, then it should have, unless there is some kind of awful rust or something else holding it on. When I say "hit," I mean "HIT".

 

on the 2wd the rotor is the hub as well. I havent changed it before on my truck, but it may be a crush nut that can only be used once. Youll have to get new nuts at the dealer, but they shouldnt cost TOO much. Autozone rents out and sells some larger spindle nut sockets, thats probably the way you will have to go.

 

I am soon to undertake the same job, except I will be replacing my rotors with aftermarket.
BUT NOTE: you do NOT remove these rotors to have them turned. Ford specifies that they be turned on the truck.
The spindle nuts are torqued to 295 lb-ft per Ford spec.
While the retainer cap says "Do Not Reuse", I have heard folks have reused them with no ill effect. Heck, I called the parts dept at a local Ford dealer and the guy really didn't know what I was talking about. Said he has sold very few spindle nuts. He said the service guys there at the delalership reuse them, but I have my doubts about that. WAAYY too much liability to expose themselves and the dealer to.

But anyways.....
In case you need them:
spindle nut part number: 3c294
retainer cap part number: W710242-S426
As far as I know, you'll have to get them through Ford.

I'm guessing you have warped rotors on the front of your 2005 F150.
There have been quite a few folks with that problem, and I am one of them.
I love my Ford truck(s) but Ford blew it with the vendor and/or material for the new front rotors. But, we have to deal with what we have.

My rotors were turned by Ford, while under warranty. They also installed new calipers and new pads.
Alas, about 5,000 miles later (and out of warranty) the rotors were warped again. I have lived with it long enough now.

I have done quite a bit of research and have about decided to go with RotorPros. I can get slotted rotors (and drilled if I choose) delivered to my house for $200 (pair). $320 if I want to do all four corners.
Advance Auto sells a plain replacemet rotor (Wearever) for about $80 each.
You can also fine Raybestos (slotted and dimpled I believe) for about $140 each.
I believe Powerslots also offers rotors.

ALSO NOTE: prior to Nov 2004 build date (can't remember exact date, but believe it is 11-29-04) Ford used separate rotors/hubs. Post that date, they are a single unit. So, if you go shopping, be sure whoever is pricing you rotors knows which ones you need.

Bottom line: Have your rotors turned on the truck (and I expect they will warp again)
OR
buy aftermarket rotors.

Hope the this info is helpful.


edit to add: The rear rotors are separate from the hub. They are not held on by a nut.

 

About having the rotors turned on the truck:

It's going to cost a darn mint to have all of this done at the Ford place. "IF" I could get this spindle nut off (and then get the rotors off) could a local parts store turn them for me? In other words, I don't want to go to the trouble of getting them off only to get up there and have them say "We can't turn these". Someone up there has said that they can turn them, but I'm not sure they even know what kind of animal I'm up against.

The rotors aren't warped - I'm just wanting them turned at the same time I do the brake job, really just for good measure.

 

I don't know how much difference this makes, but:

It is 6-lug, not 7, and the date on the door is 09/04.

 

if there not warped id just put the pads on it and not worry about it, if it starts shaking like its warped later on then go through all the trouble

 

turn the rotors. i tried putting just pads on and i had a hell of squeal.

on my '04 FX4 the rotors were frozen with rust. a couple of hard wacks and they were loose.

 

usualy a squel is caused by the pads, have found this out from different brands we use at our auto repair shop. Not to say that is always the case, but for how easy pads are to change why not just put them on and see if its fine

 

6 lugs is non-heavy duty payload package.

Based on your build date, you should have the two-piece rotor/hub assembly.
Yes, they can stick together and be very hard to seperate.
I have read of frustrating attempts involving lots of penetrating oil, a dead blow hammer, and a few broken rotors.

My advice, and it's probably worth what you are paying for it, if your rotors are not warped and don't have grooves in them, do not have them turned.

You'll just be making the rotors thinner for no good reason. Thinner rotors have less heat tolerance and are more likely to warp.

Put your new pads on and be done with it.

 

i did a brake job where i only replaced the pads and it developed a loud squeal. so, i had the rotors turned, used the same pads and no squeal.

just my 2 cents

 

FX4Dude,

Are your studs inserted into the rotor or are they part of the hub assembly? The reason I'm asking is, I'm wondering where the best place to whack this rotor would be? I can tap the studs out the back of my rotor easily and hit toward the center, otherwise I'm left to hit the rotor surface. What do you think is best? I suppose I can try both. I've already hit on the rotor surface some, so I don't suppose any more would hurt.

 

I think the studs go through the rotor but are not threaded.

First, use some penetrating oil. then use a rubber mallet on the rotor surface, hitting outwards.

if this doesn't work, use a hammer but start gently and turn the rotor after every hit. If you hit too hard the rotor can fall off the hub, so be careful.

If i remember, i had to wack it a few times. Hitting them hard wasn't a concern because i had planned to have them turned. Still, i believe that this is not the correct way to remove the rotor, but i am still searching.

Hint: when you reassemble, use "Anti Sieze" on the mating surface of the rotor and the hub.

 

SUCCESS!

It turns out that I did have to remove that nut to get the rotor off (the rotor and hub are one assembly). Once I put my break-over with a cheater on that thing, it came off like butter, and the rotor slid off with no problem. There must have been some crossover during that manufacturing period.

Thanks for the help guys!