78.

BTW, you don't need to quote a picture...if something pertains to me .....just address me ......like a letter

BTW again <> some day we're going to meet...you'll be buying the drinks of course

 

Cool. :)

Is that a correction to my '75 manual or did Ford change the parts?

Yeah but. :) That's for the others reading it tho, we are building a thread together and I want it to be useable as it can be. Complete as posible too.

Cool, are you gonna snow-bird your way down here to SE AZ? :)

Alvin in AZ (non-smoker, panty-waist-drinker but cus's like a sailor)

 

The wording is exactly the same as the 1976 shop manual.

To discuss anything personal please click the "My FTE Forum" in my sig.

 

I messed with my metering rod ('75 F150) and found out it pushes-in about 1/16" but doesn't feel like it's doing anything.

It pulls-out about 3/32" and I can feel the spring tension, it's definately made to do something different when it's pulled out..

My guess at this point, is Ford changed the design on the part after '75. (?)

Still when bleeding the brakes using the one-man method, they bled fast and easy and bled good too. And couldn't tell any difference whether my home made tool was on it or not.

The one-man-method uses a clean jar with a little clean brake fluid in it and a clean hose that fits tight over the bleeder. Loosen the bleeder and with the hose-end submerged in the brake fluid simply pump the brake pedal.

I like to watch the master cylinder while I'm pumping the brake pedal by looking through the windshield and under the open hood. You'll see right away you need to pump slow both in and out or you'll splash brake fluid all over the palce. :)

My youngest son taught me that method. :)

I've only bought one re-built master cylinder for my '75, first and last time, buying new is worth it IMO.

What I've found, even with some new master cylinders, they've been tumbled and/or hot-tanked, for cleaning. That upper surface is rough and won't seal good.

What I do to the really roughed-up ones is "hoof rasp" the surface flat, then file it smooth, then sand it, going through at least a couple grits of sandpaper. The ones I've done that way don't leak around the seal. Believe it? :)

Alvin in AZ

 

Here a picture of the metering valve bleeder tool to hold the metering rod out on the combination valve https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=94664&width=0

 

I just wanted to thank everyone for the valuable info. Brakes are complete and working well. Note: I purchased the brake lines and proportioning valve from inline and I believe they are about 75 percent accurate. If you get the same be prepared to make some modifications. cutting, flaring and different fittings. Thanks again.

 

Excellent ..thanks for getting back to us and letting us know