de-arching compared to flip
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de-arching compared to flip
I have read up on some lowering articles and have heard quiet a bit about de-arching and flipping the axle. Are there any pro's and con's? Do you get more drop with one and not the other? What about removing the helper spring? And what about the $ differences? I live in the south-western part of Ohio and have asked around for places that do the de-arching and noone knows of any places... anyone know?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
De-arching will change the ride of the truck, and can sag significantly over time.
Removing springs from the pack is really not recommended, for similar reasons.
When you talk about flipping the axle, you aren't actually -flipping- the axle. You cut the perches off the top of the axle, and weld them on the bottom, re-install the axle above the springs. You do keep the stock ride, and it'll drop it about 6-7".
Removing springs from the pack is really not recommended, for similar reasons.
When you talk about flipping the axle, you aren't actually -flipping- the axle. You cut the perches off the top of the axle, and weld them on the bottom, re-install the axle above the springs. You do keep the stock ride, and it'll drop it about 6-7".
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I understand what flipping meant but just wanted to know the pro's and con's from some of the people that actually have done it. But if you want to be technical about it, if de-arching would cause sag.... then are you saying that old springs will never sag also. I mean to some degree all springs are going to sag, whether they are customized or just worn with age. When you say that flipping will give you 6-7" are you meaning that there would be something else you would do because I measured flipping and relocating the perch and it looks to be 4-5" at best. I just thought of something.... if you put a spacer between the springs and the perch (maybe 1") and weld it all together and put lowering blocks, would that effect negatively in any way? My point is that I don't want to go the route of 4 linking and want to drop as much as possible with that in mind. It would have to be one doosy of a c-notch job but would it hurt?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
I wouldn't tow a trailer with a truck with a c-nothed frame, but it shouldn't be too bad. I've seen trucks that had the bottom of the notch about 4" above the top of the frame rail, up in the bed, with the frame still structurally sound.
Usually, if you take a spring, heat it to remove the temper so it can be bent, then re-temper it to hold that shape, it will fatigue and sag faster than even the old leaf springs.
Usually, if you take a spring, heat it to remove the temper so it can be bent, then re-temper it to hold that shape, it will fatigue and sag faster than even the old leaf springs.
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hey
Originally Posted by Ford_Six
I wouldn't tow a trailer with a truck with a c-nothed frame, but it shouldn't be too bad. I've seen trucks that had the bottom of the notch about 4" above the top of the frame rail, up in the bed, with the frame still structurally sound.
Usually, if you take a spring, heat it to remove the temper so it can be bent, then re-temper it to hold that shape, it will fatigue and sag faster than even the old leaf springs.
Usually, if you take a spring, heat it to remove the temper so it can be bent, then re-temper it to hold that shape, it will fatigue and sag faster than even the old leaf springs.
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