I was wanting to use an upfitter switch to do a High Idle. I was wanting to know if this is possible, what to do, and any comments that people have about this type of mod(things to watch out for or bad experiences or hopefully, good experiances). I called Ford to see if it could be done using the switches and the tech at the place I got my truck didn't know because he doesnt get those questions on the high idle circuits and I checked the tech folder in the 6L forum here and there is an article that one person did it on an 03 6L, but he had a seperated button/switch to turn it on or off, it wasn't run thru the factory switchers, which is want I'm really wanting to do, I don't want to do it if I have to add something else to the dash that isn't going to look factory. Thanks for the help.

 

Tex25025

I could not find the original post but I had a copy on my computer.

Ok, this may be a bit complicated, but pay attention - you can do this. Once completed, one UpFitter switch will raise the idle to 1200 rpm (6.0L).

Project Cost: $47,560 (including truck)
Project Time: 4-6 weeks (includes truck ordering, building, & delivery time)

You will need the following:

1ea - 2005 Ford Truck
2ea - red butt connectors (or solder & tape)
1ea - available UpFitter switch (although any 12v switched source will do)
1ea - access to this forum
1ea - crimping tool
1ea - long nose pliers
6" - stranded hook-up wire (14-16 ga)
11 mm - socket
1ea - ratchet for socket
1ea - ability to follow directions (with pictures)

Optional:

1ea - garage large enough to enclose the truck (especially when raining)
1 to 6 - 12 oz refreshments
1 - Ford Tough tatoo
1ea - Electrical Engineering Degree
1pr - non-conductive footwear

Directions:
1. Remove all rings, watches, & bracelets (a must when doing electronics)
2. Remove the drivers side access panel (below the steering wheel)
3. Using the 11mm socket & ratchet, remove the 4 bolts which hold the fuse panel. Gently, pull the fuse box through the opening and leave it hang.
4. Look for the UpFitter wire bundle as noted in this photo:

5. Choose which switch you want to use. I used Aux-4 as it is one of the 10 amp circuits and only a signal voltage is required. Here is a list of wires:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]
6. Pull the black end off the chosen wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
7. Crimp one end of one butt connector to this wire.
8. Prepare the 6" wire by stripping 1/4" of the insulation off both ends.
9. Crimp one end of the 6" wire to the open end of the butt connector used above.
10. Crimp another butt connector to the other end of the 6" wire.
11. Locate the top of the parking brake pedal (approximately 6" below the AUX wires).
12. Locate the SEIC/CASC wire bundle (about 12 wires with black ends) as noted in this photo:

13. Locate the solid ORANGE wire. There are many orange wires in this bundle, but most have a color tracer. You must use the SOLID orange wire.
14. Pull the black end off the SOLID ORANGE wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
15. Insert the SOLID ORANGE wire into the open end of the butt connector attached to the 6" hookup wire.
16. This completes the electrical portion of this project. You need to replace the fuse box and access cover.

Testing

All the following are required to enable high idle:

Parking brake applied.
Foot off of service brake.
Vehicle in PARK (automatic trans.)
Foot off of clutch (manual trans.)
Foot off of accelerator pedal
Vehicle speed is 0 mph (stationary)
Brake lights functional
Engine at a stable base idle speed

Start your engine! Flip the UpFitter switch. The engine will idle up to 1200 rpm. If any of the required items changes state, the engine will go to its normal idle speed. If the item state is changed back to the required state, the idle will return to 1200 within 3 seconds.

There are many options available (higher rpm, gas engine information, E-series, etc) and all are noted in this document I noted in my first post in this thread (thanks Y-Guy).

Happy Hi-Idling!

Jim
________

 

You do not have to select the solid orange wire.

The solid orange wire (SEIC) is for power take off use. It sets the idle at 1,200 RPM and locks the torque converter. That's great if you plan to power a sump pump with your truck and drain the back 40.

The BCP (Battery Charge Protect) curcuit makes more sense if you want to keep the A/C cold, heater hot or jump start other vehicles. It elevates the idle to 1,200 RPM, but if the batteries need additional charging, automatically varies the idle as high as 2,400 RPM. It DOES NOT LOCK THE TORQUE CONVERTER.

The BCP curcuit made more sense than the SEIC for me. I can idle away with my Hella 4000 Rallye Lights on and power inverter charging my laptop if I want.

The BCP wire is PURPLE WITH A GREEN STRIPE.

Look in the SUPER DUTY Tech Folder again. The first thread is about hooking up high idle on a 2006 PSD. The second post has two links to Ford facory documentation. If you have any questions, the Ford documents list contact phone numbers - a real engineer or technician actually picks up the phone!

 

I just did this yesterday.. And altho the pics I found here:

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...bb_pdf/160.pdf

shows the 4 orange wires for the upfitter switches sticking out in the wide open... I had to really hunt to find them curled up on the back of the fuse panel.

Having said that, STGF250 is correct with advising to use the BCP wire instead of the PTO wire. (as my name implies, I spin Rig Anchors... and unless you're using a PTO device... stick to the BCP wire)

If u need any more help... just message me.. I can step u thru it..
Cheers

 

Thanks to all for the help, I really do appreciate it. I probably will be just using the BCP wire as I'm not going to actually use the pto provision(don't really need it in the horse business), I just wanted higher idle for when I had to leave it runnin or for those cold weather starts, etc.. I probably won't have time to get to it the next couple of days(got alot of crap underneath the fuse panel and the dash with all the other aftermarket wires running thru there, it'll take me awhile). If I have any problems(which I am pretty challanged when it comes to workin on trucks, so it is more then likely), I'll message y'all. I don't know why I didn't see the link the tech folder in this forum, I saw it in the 6.0 diesel forum, but not in here, I must be getting old and my eyes are going(eyes and brain power are the first to go after all). Thanks again everyone, I appreciate it.