Report on headers
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From: Powell River B.C.
Report on headers
My 93- F350 4X4 7.3 with headers installed, 4" diflected ram air, 3" out of the headers to a 3" exhaust system with full flow muffler, 3.55 gears. I would have loved to actually put this on a dynometer, but about the next best thing is a 1/4 mile test and punch the numbers into the poor mans dynometer calculator I found on line. left the overdrive off. with estimated vehicle weight of 7000 pounds I got to 75 mph, which calcuated out to 230 HP, or about 45 HP better than a stock engine. This is with reciently installed rebuild injectors and IP, no fuel screw adjustments. Now that's done I can go back to granny driving to see how the fuel economy improves.
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by KJLYPW
My 93- F350 4X4 7.3 with headers installed, 4" diflected ram air, 3" out of the headers to a 3" exhaust system with full flow muffler, 3.55 gears. I would have loved to actually put this on a dynometer, but about the next best thing is a 1/4 mile test and punch the numbers into the poor mans dynometer calculator I found on line. left the overdrive off. with estimated vehicle weight of 7000 pounds I got to 75 mph, which calcuated out to 230 HP, or about 45 HP better than a stock engine. This is with reciently installed rebuild injectors and IP, no fuel screw adjustments. Now that's done I can go back to granny driving to see how the fuel economy improves.
The other big question is HOW DOES IT FEEL?!? Does it feel like ya' hitched up 45 more ponies?
These are the headers from Stans Headers in Auburn WA, right? What was the total cost of the new exhaust system?
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From: Powell River B.C.
1/4 took about 19 seconds to cover, Yes it feels like more jam, was the first time I was able to get it out of town to open it up. Usually with overdrive E4OD it kicks into 4th which slows down the rpm's and power band, but with the OD off it sure wants to snort along, I wasn't paying too much attention to the tach at that point though. I've been working on the exhaust mod in stages over the last year, but yes, headers from Stans in Auburn Washington, Y pipe back cost another 3-400 CND dollars, so all in I guess Ive spent 900 USD for the header-exhaust Mod.
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by KJLYPW
1/4 took about 19 seconds to cover, Yes it feels like more jam, was the first time I was able to get it out of town to open it up. Usually with overdrive E4OD it kicks into 4th which slows down the rpm's and power band, but with the OD off it sure wants to snort along, I wasn't paying too much attention to the tach at that point though. I've been working on the exhaust mod in stages over the last year, but yes, headers from Stans in Auburn Washington, Y pipe back cost another 3-400 CND dollars, so all in I guess Ive spent 900 USD for the header-exhaust Mod.
For comparison, what was your 1/4 mile time & speed before the header install - or did you ever check it?
$900 clams for 45 ponies - $20 per HP - not bad......
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From: Powell River B.C.
Didn.t check it before, but I know it has way better performance than when I it was stock, I'm going to run the truck over a set of scales Monday to check out the actual weight. Over all I think the approach of cleaning up the airflow and exhaust of the stock set up is worth while, will use less fuel for better performance. I believe after running the dyno 1/4 mile check thing that it is pretty close to being accurate, I dont have to push more fuel into the engine to drive a turbo that runs at 30000 rpm and requires additional power to drive, and I'm confident in saying I'm getting more for less out of the header installation.
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by KJLYPW
Didn.t check it before, but I know it has way better performance than when I it was stock, I'm going to run the truck over a set of scales Monday to check out the actual weight. Over all I think the approach of cleaning up the airflow and exhaust of the stock set up is worth while, will use less fuel for better performance. I believe after running the dyno 1/4 mile check thing that it is pretty close to being accurate, I dont have to push more fuel into the engine to drive a turbo that runs at 30000 rpm and requires additional power to drive, and I'm confident in saying I'm getting more for less out of the header installation.
I'm going to start out reworking the air cleaner and ram air, better Y-pipe to a single 3" and a glasspack, then maybe a home-brew propane setup. Figure that I can do all that for $200-$300 and if I can get even 20 or 30 extra HP out of it I'll be happy.
Last edited by CheaperJeeper; Sep 17, 2006 at 12:14 AM.
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KJ, how hard was the header install? I'm thinking of installing a new exhaust system and might as well go for the full meal deal. I've been debating the turbo deal for a while and for some reason I just don't want to go there.
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From: Powell River B.C.
Actual install of headers was no problem at all, I have a 3" Y right above and behind the transmission cross member. Hook up to pass side header was no problem. I had to fabricate a fairly involved cross over pipe from the drivers side as the header ends up just at the front of the transmission pan, so had to come down, across the bottom of the pan and back up to the Y. I will post some pictures in my gallery.
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From: Katy, Texas
So you say these headers are great? If theyre doin what u say theyre doing Im definately going to get me some. I was on stans site, and the ones he has pictured are chrome, is that the ones u got or are those the only way they come? As soon as you find a dyno in your area let us know some numbers! With all of us truck guys, youd think one of us would be able to come up with a way to mount a turbo to a pair of stans headers, but i guess no one wants to do that much work!
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From: Powell River B.C.
Well I weighed the truck today, as when I did the 1/4, it tipped the scale @ 6870lbs. so when I put that weight into the HP caculator and the speed I got up to it indictes 226 HP, which is still not to shabby out of a 185 HP stock engine.
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by KJLYPW
Well I weighed the truck today, as when I did the 1/4, it tipped the scale @ 6870lbs. so when I put that weight into the HP caculator and the speed I got up to it indictes 226 HP, which is still not to shabby out of a 185 HP stock engine.
Care to post a link to that HP calculator?
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KJLYPW you said 226 hp? is that to the wheels or the flywheel. Because if the engine had 185 stock flywheel hp it probably only had 140-160 to the wheels. Then if the meter thing says you have 226 hp to the wheels the hp gain would be more than 41 hp.
just curious.
hmm, I'm going to see how much it would cost to dyno my truck. there is a truck dyno a couple of miles away.
also, I'm curious if there are any other alternatives to stans headers. $500 is out of my college budget/range.
also, what would be the cheapest way to finish an exhaust system? Headers, 3 inch y-pipes into a 4 inch exhaust?
if I could do all this for $700 or less I think the fuel savings would pay itself off in a while. If I got 2mpg better per tank I would get 40 more miles per tank. At 15 mpg I would save almost $10 per tank, or $20 per fill up(dual tanks)
hmmmm.
just curious.
hmm, I'm going to see how much it would cost to dyno my truck. there is a truck dyno a couple of miles away.
also, I'm curious if there are any other alternatives to stans headers. $500 is out of my college budget/range.
also, what would be the cheapest way to finish an exhaust system? Headers, 3 inch y-pipes into a 4 inch exhaust?
if I could do all this for $700 or less I think the fuel savings would pay itself off in a while. If I got 2mpg better per tank I would get 40 more miles per tank. At 15 mpg I would save almost $10 per tank, or $20 per fill up(dual tanks)
hmmmm.
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From: Powell River B.C.
Poor mans dyno is just a calculation which uses basic physics to figure out how much power it takes to move a given mass a given distance at a given speed. The where doesn't figure into the equation! Like I said, its got way more zip than when everything was stock (185 HP measured on the valve cover decal);LOL
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From: Kent WA
Thanks KJLYPW - bookmarked that one!
As for where the HP is measured, looking at his formulas it has to be measured at the wheels. The difference between wheel & flywheel HP is mechanical loss in the drivetrain - which is different for every vehicle. His formulas appear to use physics constants - not variables.
Unless he has embedded an assumed constant for mechanical loss in one of his numbers (which would induce a ridiculously wide margin of error), his calulator has to be calculating wheel HP.
Anybody know if the 185 HP factory number is rated at the flywheel or at the wheels? I'm betting it is at the wheels. Does 70.2 mph and 19.4 seconds through the quarter mile sound about right for a stock rig? 'Cause that's the number that gets you 185 calculated HP.......
As for where the HP is measured, looking at his formulas it has to be measured at the wheels. The difference between wheel & flywheel HP is mechanical loss in the drivetrain - which is different for every vehicle. His formulas appear to use physics constants - not variables.
Unless he has embedded an assumed constant for mechanical loss in one of his numbers (which would induce a ridiculously wide margin of error), his calulator has to be calculating wheel HP.
Anybody know if the 185 HP factory number is rated at the flywheel or at the wheels? I'm betting it is at the wheels. Does 70.2 mph and 19.4 seconds through the quarter mile sound about right for a stock rig? 'Cause that's the number that gets you 185 calculated HP.......