I bought a 72 F600 dump truck that has a 330 engine in it and stuck. So far I have removed the plugs, shot diesel, auto tranny fluid and wd-40 into the cylinders, been soaking for a week and a half. Removed the valve covers and tapped the valves to make sure they were not stuck. Tried turning the engine with a breaker bar and finally hooked up a tow bar to my pickup and tried rocking it back and forth while the truck was in gear. So far, no luck. I was told the thing was running when it was parked and it was sitting for a couple of years. Any suggestions? Should I start pulling the heads or maybe the pan to get at the pistons, or give it more time? I really don't want to pull the engine yet, I'm trying to get it running for as cheap as possible for right now. Thanks for any ideas you may have.

 

I would completely fill the cylinders with Diesel. I would also drain the oil and fill the crankcase to overflowing with Diesel. Then wait....at least a week. When you go to try to break it loose, Jarring it is good. I've never had much luck with just trying to turn the crank with a pullbar. I usually use a large punch, find somewhere you can get a good hit with a large hammer, and then start trying to jar the engine loose this way. I've also had limited success with using an air impact on the crank bolt. Usually I'll wait about a week...then try to break it loose with the hammer...give it a good effort and then if it doesn't move stop and go try it the next day. Most times it's several days before I get it. With the hammer trick you can alternately try breaking it clockwise and counterclockwise. A note of caution....once you do get it broke loose, drain the diesel completely and drop the exhaust and drain any excess diesel from the exhaust pipes. If a bunch of diesel gets left in the exhaust system then you've got a potential fire hazard.....You can burn a car to the ground with this....don't ask me how I know....lol.

Good Luck!

Tracy

 

Just me but? Your going to have to pull the motor for a complete rebuild anyway...Pull the motor and put it on a stand... For ease of access...

Your probably going to break some rings "if" its that stuck.....Pull the pan when its on the engine stand...Put a drip tray under it..Pull the heads..take a dead blow and a 2x4 and tap on top of the pistons and on the counter balances of the crank.. and keep it wet with WD-40 or some Liquid Wrench.. Just work it a little everyday!! Do try to much at one time....To try and keep from breaking a piston or the rings.. JMO..

Russ

 

Brake fluid is a good creaper, but I do agree with Russ.. free or not that thing aint moving far without a overhaul.
Tip: Maybe pull the timing cover and set and distributor to determine where the binding is exactly. It cant all be stuck..

BOL

 

Then again maybe it was running 2 years ago when some jackazz drove it into a quarry

 

Don't use WD40 as a penetrating oil. It's not - it's a water-displacement product, not penetrating oil.

I'd use something like Gibbs, which is a great product for this sort of thing. Reminds me of ATF mixed with isopropyl alcohol...

This situation sounds like "old smokey" is going to be run like heck until it can't run anymore - even if it's running on 4 cylinders and knocking like a beast, right ???

Whatever you do, be as gentle as possible so as not to break TOO many rings

The one thing you might be able to do is put a 360 in place of the 330 pretty cheap. Is this motor one with the motor mounts mounted to the timing cover?

 

Thanks for all your replies so far. In response to Krewat, yes is does have the motor mount on the timing cover. My understanding is, that if I would swap the engine, a 361 or 391 would mount right up with no modification. Is that correct? Does anyone have an idea what a half decent engine would go for $$? Being the tightwad that I am, I was sure hoping that I could get this engine going, but I guess that I'll still be ok since I paid a grand total of 500$ for it . It has a nice 6 yard dump bed on it , a 5 speed with 2 speed axle, and the body is in great shape minus paint. One last question, I assume it would be cheaper to reengine than rebuild? Thanks again.

 

That would depend on what you can find, ($$ and health) if you do the job, you know whats in it. Or buy remanufactured=(warranty), drop right in.

 

If it were mine, I'd pull it up to about 25mph, in first, with the clutch in. Rapidly release clutch, and hope the motor turns!

Probably a good thing it's not mine...

Oh, you might look at the starter. Sometimes a tooth can break off the starter, and wedge itself up on the flywheel. This can make them seem locked up.

 

A running 330, 361 or 391 shouldn't be too much money, if you find one that's running good. And it should swap right in.

Now, I know all FT's should be externally balanced, but I wouldn't bet on an unknown 330 being anything near what it's "supposed" to be. If you do go to a 361/391, get the flywheel with it, just in case

 

Rusty: If you put it in straight thru gear, not OD and not 1st, it will have the best advantage and strength to break it loose. You lose advantage using 1st or low gear, as it wants to spin the engine fast, the opposite of what you want. OD of any sort is probably not strong enough to handle the torque (maybe) in my opinion.
Just a sayin'
tom

 

Tom's right

 

I don't think freeing an engine (even a fairly complex one) needs to be such heavy weather as people are making it. I just freed a 5.0 liter EFI one that had been sitting since '96 in an '88 Lincoln with a burned out dash. Here are the steps:

1. Pull the plugs (useful for checking engine condition when it had last run).
2. I used a 2' length of tube to spray PB Blaster penetrating oil into each cylinder, with a chaser of Marvel Mystery Oil introduced with a veterinary hypo (10 cc).
3. Break off the electronic stuff, remove the drive gear, and turn down the top of an old 5.0 liter distributor to fit a power drill chuck.
4. Change the oil, and include about a quart of Marvel or a similar oil treatment with good solvent properties.
5. Get pumping with the power drill (use a slow speed to start, to go easy on the oil pump drive rod). Oil pressure/circulation will help free especially the valve train.
6. Gently try both forward and reverse rotation (no cheaters longer than 3 feet) over a couple of days. Once you've got some initial rotation, no more cheaters. The engine will free in steps. When it jams (i.e. sticking valves), just rotate backwards, rather than forcing the issue. Otherwise, you could bend pushrods or break rings.
7. After a little of this help, you should be able to get full rotation, but don't rush in with engaging a starter, until you're satisfied the oil pumping and mechanical action has completely freed the valve train.

Once you've got the engine free, some other things to consider:
1. Most likely, you'll have to replace the air pump of an engine that's sat for even a year, and for this one, I had to free and clean the clapper starter.
2. You'll want to salvage the harness, relays and all the peripherals you can get to help in making a swap. I went retro from the '88 harness and electronics to the simpler '86 stuff. Some connectors may be different, so pay attention to color-coding of the wires. Since pulling an engine and trannie as a unit can be a bit rough, now's the time to check for broken wires that could be tough to troubleshoot later on.
3. You'll also want to salvage good air tubes for the catalytics. The tubes are expensive to replace. The check valve for the pipe supplying air to the heads will probably be shot. Replacing the pipe is nowhere you want to go, so the best way to remove the check valve without stressing/breaking this pipe is to grind through the tapped portion in a couple of places without damaging the thread on the pipe, and ease the remainder off with lots of penetrating oil.

If you're going all the way and doing the trannie too, there are some exta steps:
1. First, check the fluid to make sure it's a good colour and not burned.
2. See if the shifter is free, and if the TV cable and arm at the trannie are free.
3. Look for signs of old leakage at the seal.
4. If it's a keeper, and even if you cut the parter driveshaft to save messing with stuck/Locktited twelve-pointers at the rear end, keep the slip yoke (wiring it to the extension housing will retain the fluid on removing the engine and trannie as a unit). There are lots of conversion U-joints available for matching different sizes of yoke and driveshaft.
5. For the AOD, be aware that the Lincoln extension housings are 3/4" longer than the regular Ford ones. If you're lucky, there may be enough room on the slip yoke to avoid shortening/rebalancing the driveshaft. If the slip yoke is in good condition, but will be going further in, a good way to remove corrosion and smoothen it on the part that was out is to take 600-grit sandpaper, wrap it around the exposed area, and hold it with elastic bands for equal pressure and to avoid sanding it out of round.
6. I drained the trannie by upending the engine and trannie over a bucket, and removing the slip yoke as a plug.
7. Removing a pan that has sat for 10 years takes patience. Before reinstalling the assembly, soak the pan bolt through-holes (upper side) on each side with a good penetrating oil. Lightly tapping the bolts helps break the corrosion bond with the aluminum. At the first sign of loosening, rotate the other way, rather than freeing the bolt only to snap it when the stuck-on aluminum hits the lower clean threads. Go backwards and forwards, loosening each bolt an increasing amount, until you can finally extract it the whole way. Not breaking bolts is a lot easier than breaking EZ Outs.
8. Expect to break the AOD speedometer gear hold-down bolt. I drilled and retapped to about 1/2" (don't drill through the housing) for a 5/16" bolt.
9. You'll probably want to swap this plastic gear for the one that's on your cable, as the gear pitch and size changes with the number of teeth (axle ratios, etc.).
10. You can adjust the linkage after swapping by counting the detents (helps to mark the linkage connections with a little spray paint beforehand).
11. For the AOD, replace the TV cable grommet, and readjust the tension. A crumbling nylon grommet or loose/improperly adjusted TV cable will cook the transmission after a few miles.
12. Be sure to flush cooler lines and anything that could have got contaminated.

For the final steps with the engine, I used a finger over the #1 cylinder plug hole to help find TDC for initial timing in reinstalling the distributor. A Shop Vac worked to suck excess oil out of the cylinders (rotating while vacuuming), before replacing the plugs (less smoke on start-up, save the new plugs from fouling). For a quarter tank of gas, I used a couple of bottles of injector cleaner, assuming there'd be gunk in the rail and injectors after 10 years.

Don't go live with fuel and ignition yet, but just rotate the engine with a jumper on the Ford starter relay. This will make sure everything's free and that oil pressure will build quickly. With harness swapping and corrosion, you may have to wiggle/unplug/plug the connector that runs to the transmission and neutral safety switch.

Even after 10 years' sitting, this engine started to kick on the first turn of the key, and after goosing the timing ahead, I got action. Be kind and just run in short bursts initially. There wasn't much smoke, and after a little running, the engine was smooth, clean, and powerful. Trannie shifts were a bit sluggish until I changed the filter and fluid.

I've had it out on the highway several times, for increasingly long hikes, and it looks as though it should run for several years. No leaks of coolant, oil, or trannie fluid.

Hope this helps,

Richard

"Don't Fix What Ain't Broke"

 

WHAT THE HELL ? How many F600 are there out there with a AOD ? LMAO.. ok skipper...my god

 

Heh Redmanbob, this may be about very stubborn people getting the little guys unstuck, but not much of a difference with a 460 and C6, except they're simpler. Big or small, the point was that patience and little things will free an engine, while the gorilla stuff breaks things and forces you into a teardown the value of the iron probably doesn't justify. Besides, there are a lot of those old Lincolns around with pooched electricals as a cheap resource to keep little guys truckin'.

Richard