Most rental companies have portable (break-down) hoists for rent for an hour -day - week.

You usually can get a running 400 out of a truck at a wrecker for $50.00.

The 400 won't be any more expensive to rebuild than the 351M would be

 

Excuse my ignorance but, is'nt a 400 the same as a 351-M with a stroker crank ?, and what are the visable differences between a 351-M and a 400. Just curious, since I thought the were basically one in the same engine. Also what makes the 400 better.
I had my 351-M rebuilt a few years ago (1987) and asked for more power and better low to mid range torque, they suggested I have it stroked to a 400 and change the cam, which I did. The engine was originally out of a 78 T-Bird, it's been a great performer for me to this day and is still in my 78 F-350 dually. I get between 14 & 16 mpg hiway (depending on my foot), which I find respectable. I just built a new flatbed and it weighs in right at 5300#. With new radial tires and alloy wheels it rides unbeleivably good.
Pics in my gallery. Excuse my braggin, but it sure turns heads as I'm refuelling as well as starts nice conversations. From women too!!
BTW, I really would appreciate knowing the engine differences.


Later, hobo.labo

 

No differences externally.

Whether you make a 400 out of a 351M or just get the 400 ...no difference.... except for peace of mind knowing exactly what one has.

You making the 351M into the 400 was a good thing.

Hopefully they rectified the oiling system problem as well on rebuild ?

Difference between the 2 ?
Longer stroke = more torque at lower Rpms

IMO...Ford makes Long stroke engines just for this purpose.

Work trucks need "Out of the hole" power from an engine (idle through power band)......not an engine that needs to get to 3000-4000 rpm before it starts developing real torque like GM engines do.


GM makes short stroke engines and puts them in their trucks.

Who sells more trucks ...especially for working ?

 

Thanks for the explanation. Now I feel better knowing I didn't make a mistake back then. As for the oil correction, I'm sure it was taken care of too since this was done by a very reputable rebuilder and the fact that I don't have any rattaling upon start-up anymore.

Thanks !!

 

So I found a '85 460 for only $150. It supposedly only needs a new oil pump. Which the guy is supplying. He also said that it is should have it's bearings looked at. But it was running when it was pulled it out. Actually, as typical, the engine was bought as a project from a neighbor, but the guy didn't work on it, so now he's selling it after a year of sitting in his garage.

Am I going to have to tear down this engine and end up spending alot of money on it? I'm willing to throw down a few hundred on tools (rentals if needed) and gaskets, but not much else. Is it a serious commitment to check the bearings?

Am I going to have to deal with different exhaust pipes? enging mounts? etc?

The truck I have used to house a 460 (so says the VIN) but the engine in it is now a 351M. What things will I have to change to bring her back to a 460? The VIN also says that it has a C4 tranny. How can I check? Should I worry about overpowering/matching bolt holes, or are all of these engines swappable?

Any advice will be eagerly read. I am a complete novice when it comes to swapping engines.

 

are you sure its a c-4? if it is that transmission wont hold up to a 460... but since you already have a 351-m/400 the transmission will bolt up just make sure the 460 still has its flywheel otherwise youll be replacing it... 460's are internally balanced up to 1978... in 1979 they became externally balanced
as for changing gaskets and stuff the price will be pretty much the same as the 351/400
if youre changing bearings all you really need is a micrometer and caliper and good clicker torque wrench... pull the main caps and connecting rod ends apart... check the crank journals with the caliper and check for wear... crank may need to be ground for a good bearing surface... but if the crank journals still look smooth just use the caliper to check and see what size bearings you need... they come in standard and .010 increments... then torque the new bearings down... bearings only cost about 100-150 for both rod and mains... youll be more happy with the 460 because youll have more low end power... but youll have to get motor mounts (about 100 from summit) and if its out of a car youll need a different oil pan and exhaust manifolds... if its out of a truck or van then youre good... just the motor mounts

 

The C4 was only used in early to mid 70's trucks with 300,302,360's.

Code G stands for automatic.

The 351M/400,460 came with a C6 trans.

 

I must've written the wrong code down. Let me go check the door before it gets thrown away. Thanks for all the help.

Are there any things I should look at as far as the quality of the engine I am going to go look at tomorrow? It's a 460 sitting on a stand. I heard that it was running when it was pulled out, but I don't want to buy a lemon engine.


Thanks again, vast fount of knowledge known as the FTE forum.

 

I wouldn't buy any engine that someone says was running.
I want to see and hear it running before I buy it.

Too many scam artists out there.


IIWY,If you are set on a 460 I would try to find a 460 that's in a Van heard running.

 

if your on a budget, pull the front clip off, and make a tripod with some timbers(6x6 or better). attach a come-a-long to the peak and you have your hoist. (oyu'll need to puch the truck out from under it.) a shopping cart with the cage removed will make an okay engine stand for your application. full engine gasket kits are inexpensive, and allow you to pull everything apart and paint it (if that is what you want). A really common leak for the c6 is the front seal, which is accessible from the inside of the bell. The worst mistake i can think of is either not nbolting your torque converter. remember to mark it before you pull it. The biggest problem with a quick reseal of an old motor is that it usually uncovers bigger problems, such as cracked piston skirts or heads.

 

Bottom Feeder, you understand a.m.t by any chance? :)
(if not, ignore)
Alvin the old f*rt in AZ

 

If you are richer in time than funds as many people are, stick with the 351M. You'll get better mileage and you aren't losing anything but mileage to the bigger motors.

I would suggest that you replace the bearings and gaskets. You can do the whole job from underneath without pulling the motor. Loosen the nuts on the motor mounts and jack the engine up and remove the oil pan. The rear main seal is the toughest. You can do it by removing the main cap, poking the old one out and feeding the new one in. You can do the rest of the bearings one at a time by rotating the motor by the 15/16" nut on the harmonic balancer. If you are really ambitious, you can replace the oil pump with a high volume version, its right there.

Bearings will probably set you back about $100, get Clevite brand bearings, an oil pump should be about $50, an oil pan gasket is about $25-30. Get Fel Pro gaskets.

I've built 351Ms and 400s, and you can get much more power from a 400, but for economy and reliability, I would choose a 351M.

 

Well, our plan got halted rather quickly. I purchased a 460, planned on reworking it, and pulling out the old 351M to sell or something. The engine stand it came with was weak and broke when we were unloading it from our trailer. The engine was immobile until I could get an engine stand and borrow/rent an engine hoist. At least it was immobile to me. Four days after buying the engine, it disappeared. Right from my friend's lawn. Either the city was cleaning up the streets (it was slightly on the sidewalk) or it was stolen by some fast moving people. I'm completely at a loss of what to do here. I guess I just lost $150 and the better part of a day (picking it up took a while).

Now I'm pretty angry. AAARRRGGGHHHH!!!!!