Is it possible to replace the cab mounts without totaly disassembling the truck. Basically, I'm not interested in restoring this truck, but I wouldn't mind some peice-of-mind.

 

Sure

 

first of All what Year & Model is it? & theres a right WAY & many Wrong ways to re-placing any thing! is your trucks Floor in good shape? & Do you have? a cutting torch? or an Air powered muffler Gun? is where the Mounts contact the truck floor Solid? I have done a lot of Cab mounts & its hard to inform YOU Not actually Seeing the Mounts! as each are usually Rotted differant here my suggestion Un-bolt One Side--& jack it UP just enough to Clear the Mounts say an Inch? remove the Mounting Bolts & Rubbers ECT! look over the New Mounts & compair them to the Rusted Out Ones! especially where they are spot welded to the Floor hope fully? their Soild there? & the Floors good? cut Off the Ole Mounts--but--Leave the Piece that attaches them to the Floor--the Mounts Lip! Install your New Mounts & lower the Cab back Down holding the mounts in Place & Re-install the Rubbers & Bolts--finger Tight!--now drill {4} 1/8 holes from the under neath on the {4} edges of your Mounts so You can SEE! where your Mounts Are! from inside the CAB--Drill 1/8 holes around the New Mounts & Pop rivit as many as needed to hold the mounts & Re-Peat on the Other Side! & You have New Cab mounts-- Tighen UP evey thing & Now Paint them! & your All Done! but If? You still have Questions?? I*M right Here!--BADCAR@WEBTV.NET --BADCAR--

 

On my 77 F150 which has the front gas tank set up, I am going to have to drop the gas tank to get at one of the rear cab mount bolts. The other three should not be too much of problem for me, since I already have the front clip off and the engine and tranny are out of the truck as well ;-)

 

Quote:

first of All what Year & Model is it?

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see his user name: seventysevenf250

 

Don't worry Dennis, it was my mistake. Yes, this is for my 77 F250, 2wd, supercab. I should have put that in the first post.
Mea Culpa.

 

Your name kind of gave that one away.

 

Remove the box, remove the cab mount bolts, disconnect all the wiring and hoses from the cab, remove the innner fender bolts, and simply roll the cab on its back onto the frame.... i know it works, but its still pretty complicated.

 

What Badcar said makes sense, but I would change the pop rivet idea. Pop rivets only do the job temporarily, it won't last for years. If you want it to last, weld them in place. If you aren't equiped to weld or don't have enough material to weld onto, at least use bolts rather than rivets.

JMO
Madmike33

 

I agree and disagree both. :)

And use all three methods you mention.

Buy the -steel- pop-rivets by the hundred and try to use them all up, on the one proDject. ;)

The factory tacked welds on the front corners of my hood came loose.

Lots of dirt-road miles on my pickup, believe it? :)

In the mid 80's I put 9 steel pop rivets on each corner with room for 4 more. The original 18 are still holding... just went out to count them. :)

My favorite trick is to use clamps to -keep- everything lined up... drill one hole and pull down tight the one pop-rivet, before drilling another hole. Maybe you'll see where you need to re-arrange your clamp/s after each new pop-rivet is pulled down tight.

Spot welds and tack welds are better in many ways but they'll only use a couple where you can use like ten dumb ol' pop-rivets. In that case the pop rivets are stronger, see?

BTDT

Buy them by the hun'erd. ;)

I almost took a picture of my hood's pop-rivets but didn't. :/

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/throttle.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/throttle1.jpg

I understand and like machine screws, ok? :)
The throttle lever-arm is drilled and tapped for those machine screws!

Having made and modified dunebuggies, there's one thing I learned right away... engineers can get away with stuff I can't. :/ I have to over-engineer the crap out if it just to get it to hold up as well as their "otherwise sloppy looking" designs.

They work it out. Being a tinkerer/modifier I have a lot of respect for engineers. No kidding.

Alvin in AZ
ps- the throttle ball joint wore out and got play in it, I hate play, so I replaced it with an allenhead (grade-8) machine screw, it doesn't have to be a ball shape, the throttle-ball's socket is a simple drilled out cylinder shape :)
pps- can you tell I've had my pickup a long time? ;)