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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Off With Her Head!!

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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 02:26 PM
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Off With Her Head!!

My '49 F2 project was moving along great until yesterday. I did a tune up, rebuilt the carb and did an oil change. Then came time to start it up. No such luck. It was backfiring through the carb and the exhaust. Stuck valves...not a problem. I pulled the plugs back out, and started oiling the valves. I could get some of them moving, but some weren't giving in that easily. I decided to pull the head to do the job properly. After snapping one of the head bolts off and fighting for a half hour, the head was off. The head gasket was blown, one valve was broke off, (my fault) and the valves look like the engine had been used as a water pump. The valves are all rusty and stuck firm. The cylinders look very nice though. Now I have to decide if I am going to try and save this 226, find another one and replace it, or put in a flathead 8. What would you guys do? By the way, I'm trying to build this on a budget (aka I don't want the wife to see where my money is going).
 
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 02:48 PM
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Rebuilt carb, oil change, tune up? I'd grab the chance to change to the hardened valve seats and keep the one you got.

But then, I'm notorious for never giving up on something until the pieces are too small to sweep up Besides, it's easier to sneak in with new valves than it would be for a whole new power plant, right?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 02:50 PM
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That was my thought too, but I don't know if I can clean up underneath the valves. It is pretty ugly down there....And I have to try and get that head bolt out yet too.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 02:50 PM
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I would give it a valve job and do the normal tune-up stuff like said.
Hows the rings?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 02:52 PM
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I'm assuming the rings are fine. There are no marks in the cylinders, and not much wear. This truck only has 40 sum thousand miles on it.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 10:17 PM
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I'd not commit to either way just yet. I'd pull the engine and take it step by step. Pull a couple of pistons; remove the rings and check their gaps in the cylinders. I can't believe they are OK if the valves are that bad.

Vat the block to see if that helps loosen the valves, get the valves out, and assess condition. I'm not ultra-familiar with the flathead 6's but if they are like the V8, the guides are easily replaced, seats are easy too. But if the block is cracked, time to toss it. Getting a broken bolt out shouldn't be a big deal, the shop could do it for about $30 if you want to leave it to them.

In other words, wait til you know the whole story before deciding what to do. Unless you buy a new reman long-block, you'll just as likely be dealing with a new set of equal problems if you buy a different engine.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 07:45 AM
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A reman is out of the question. The cylinders don't have any scoring or rust, and the ridge is minimal. I think I'm going to try cleaning it up and replacing the valve guides and seats. I do need at least one valve though. Does anyone know if I can get new valves, or would I be better off finding used ones?
 
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 08:45 PM
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I think you should try to get new valves if you can but older ones that are true will be ok. Try Joblot Automotive 1-800-221-0172 for your parts, and they usually have them in stock as well as the seats. Also, I would at least try to drop the pan and get the motor turning over if possible before buttoning her back up with a valve job. There is reason for some concern with the valves being rusted shut. Good luck and if all else fails grab a V8 and go for it.

fifty2f1
george
 
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 11:28 AM
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A couple of good articles on removing broken bolts/studs

http://www.reds-headers.com/html/red...e_talk_11.html
http://www.reds-headers.com/html/red...ne_talk_9.html

Try these two links for some good tips/methods for removing broken studs or bolts.

Mike
 
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 02:31 PM
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I believe Kanter also has 226 Valves

Rod 51F1
 
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