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So i'm replacing the head gaskets in my truck. The old ones were the composit type. I'm having trouble cleaning off the old gasket from the engine block. Nothing seems to touch it. What is the best method of doing this? The block is still in the truck, and the bottm end is still in. Any ideas or suggestions??
A gasket scraper, rags and some brake cleaner. I use a flexible scraper that is about an inch and a half wide. You could probably pick one up at Lowe's. Just make sure you clean the cylinders out real good before you put it back together. Good Luck!
EDIT: This is pretty much what I use, a putty knife, the price reflects a 5-pack so don't pass out :
But, it does allow you to get those stubborn bits off without damaging the surface *IF* you are careful. It must not have a damaged blade, or you will be forming tiny grooves as you remove gasket material.
I always stuffed rags into the bores, or intakes, and lined the valley with thick layers of newspaper to catch as much as I could.
scotch brite rollocks on a hand drill or die grinder will eat that stuff right up.just be sure to cover the lifter valley and piston tops like the guys said.
scotch brite rollocks on a hand drill or die grinder will eat that stuff right up.just be sure to cover the lifter valley and piston tops like the guys said.
X2.....
Or I will use a die grinder/wire wheel to remove stubborn gaskets.
Covering the lifter galley is important but I've found a shop vac will clean the cylinder/tops of pistons more than adequately without messy grease everywhere.
new wide flat file end...put a nice handle on it...use end and flat side of file....cuts the old gasket no matter how tough...some of the old asbestos based adhere like liquid steel welded on...
just be careful and not create gouges
get a US made Nicholson, not one of those peanut butter Chinese files
Better than a new file, grind a slightly angled end on an old one, makes one heck
of a scraper. just be careful of the gouging as 96 said. I've got one in the toolbox
I made back in the 1950's haven't worn it out yet, although I have touched up the end.
I use a piece of 7075 aluminum bar stock with a handle on steel, plexiglas on aluminum, no chance in hell of destroying machined surfaces.
Turn the crank so all buckets are all down the bore a little, wipe clean the bores and buckets with lacquer thinner, add duct seal after it's rolled to the diameter of a cigarette then placed between buckets and bores.
Add closed cell foam in all drain back holes in the lifter valley, coolant slots and oil feeds to the heads. When done a little air blast to remove gasket material before pulling the foam and duct seal. Your motor will thank you.
Scotch Brite scratches glass, ever wonder what those little broken particles do to the inside of your motor?
Kind of like modeling clay, we use it to seal unused conduits and underground pipes. You can get 1 pound or bigger bars at any electrical supply house.
Good for sealing firewall cracks, holes and were speedo comes thru the firewall.
Can be shot thru a "Spud Gun".
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