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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 06:52 PM
  #1  
nastruk95's Avatar
nastruk95
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From: Nanticoke
Arrow Cam opinion

I've been doing a lot of looking around seeing who was running what, but wondering if anyone could give me some direction from there own experiences or sight. So far I am trying to decide between the
Crane Truck Power Camshafts
Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 260/ 272, Lift .458/ .487,

or
COMP Cams High Energy Camshafts
Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 260/ 260, Lift .447/ .447,


The truck is a 95 efi speed density. I plan on pulling the head, porting and polishing and finally slap on the headers. The other problem seems to be with the fuel mixture. It is very lean, every time I pull the plugs There have a white/grey ash to them. I was looking to get a high pressure regulator. WOuld larger injectors also help witht this combination?
Thanks for any thought.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 08:04 PM
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DT 466Man's Avatar
DT 466Man
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From: Adams TN
i have the Crane cam, but in a carb truck. i love it.

not sure if it will mess with the Speed Density or not

DT
 
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 06:38 AM
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both cams say they apply to the efi models, so I figured I'd get something out of it without having to order a new chip. I was just wondering more around the lines of the different lift characteristics between the two. How is the idle on your truck with the new cam and did it actualy improve the gas mileage as it claims?
 
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 08:17 AM
  #4  
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DT 466Man
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From: Adams TN
Um, the idle with 3" open exhaust sounds like a cammed up Oliver Super 88 pulling tractor.....which is good. it had a nice lope to it and you can tell somethings not stock just by listening.

well i put it in when i rebuilt the engine before the rebuild i was gettting 12-13.....on an engine that had 3 dead cyls, but ran perfectly just used oil. only reason i thought something may be wrong was a slight mis off idle. and now its 14-18. with 4k on the motor. not sure if its just the motor not being wore out or the cam.

i would say it would give the potential for better mpg............because the engine would be more efficient. but i also have a 240 head that brings the compression up...so i can't really say for sure.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 09:16 AM
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Thanks for your input. I think I'm gonna go with the Crane also, since it doesn,y have as much lift, but still much more than stock.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 12:02 PM
  #6  
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optikal illushun
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From: Coal Region
Crane cam...
 
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 01:38 PM
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Optikal..
Did you get the tuned or untuned heddman neaders?
 
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 01:39 PM
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Did you have to do anything with your fuel pressure or injector size witht he new cam?
 
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 09:31 PM
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tuned or untuned? they only sell one kind. i did have them ceramic coated though.

i didnt touch the injectors or fuel pressure. i would like to get it on a dyno and check the A/F and see if i can improve upon it by adding a larger injector (#19) or maybe tweaking the fuel map with a piggy back custom chip.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 06:31 PM
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You wouldn't happen to have any advice on the istallation would you? I ordered the can today, the Crane truck cam. I did a se4arch and read some people had to replace or rig something like a washer or some sort to reduce end play.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 06:36 PM
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do u have AIM or MSN? if so we can chat.

are u from naticoke Pa?

what cam did u order (part number)?
 
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 06:41 PM
  #12  
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I have the comp cams 260H cam in my carbed 1982 300. Im guessing what you are refering to as the washer is actually your cam thrust plate. It has two bolts that hold the cam in the block. You have to swap it over to the new camshaft. I had the machine shop swap it over along with my new timing gear onto the new camshaft. When they press they cam gear on it has to have the correct clearance between the cam gear and the thrust plate. That will determine your camshaft end play. Hope that helps.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 11:13 AM
  #13  
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I ordered the CRN-503905 Crane truck power cam,
Grind # H-260-2
I also ordered new lifters, but still deciding if new springs will be necessary
 
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 07:37 PM
  #14  
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I still need to get AIM or MSN, seems like I'm lagging on the whole communication thing
I'm from nanticoke, MD, its in Wicimico county. I've been to Nanticoke, PA and really enjoy the Sesquahanna River.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 02:43 PM
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From: Coal Region
i didnt use new springs and u dont need them bnecause the lift on the cam doesnt exceed the max rate of the springs (around .500).

i do highly recommend changing the timing gears with a set of steel units from a 79 F100. they cost like $40 and u can get them at advance auto.

only tips i have is to make sure u have all the gaskets and enough time. dont rush through it and have a repair manual handy.

u will need a side cover gasket, valve cover gasket, throttle body gasket, EGR gasket, possible upper to lower intake gasket and timing gear (soemtimes called front) cover gasket.

ur going to have to have the old stock gear pressed off the cam and into the new one or just get the steel replacements. either way u will need to have someone who can do it for u...or u can place the steel gear in an oven and heat it up to slide over the cam. u will also need a puller for the crank pulley/harmonic balancer. the crank gear (if u deicde to replace it with steel) coems off with the puller as well. dont forget the wooddriff key and fluids.

oh and u may need to jack the motor up to get the cam to clear the radiator support.

i think thats it...
 
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