Starter problems, Low voltage?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Starter problems, Low voltage?
Please help,
I have a 93 f350 diesel and I cant get it to start, the starter engages but I can't get the motor to turn over. I replaced the starter, silinoid, all battery terminals (2 batteries), and had the battery load tested. I even tried starting it in neutral, I am getting 7.75 volts at the battery terminal when I try to start it. It is an auto with the steering column shifter.
It needs a water pump but I can't see that being the problem.
Please let me know if anyone knows what wrong.
thanks for reading
I have a 93 f350 diesel and I cant get it to start, the starter engages but I can't get the motor to turn over. I replaced the starter, silinoid, all battery terminals (2 batteries), and had the battery load tested. I even tried starting it in neutral, I am getting 7.75 volts at the battery terminal when I try to start it. It is an auto with the steering column shifter.
It needs a water pump but I can't see that being the problem.
Please let me know if anyone knows what wrong.
thanks for reading
Last edited by BIGRIG1993; Sep 7, 2006 at 04:00 PM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 3
From: Ladner, British Columbia
Turn the engine over one or two revolutions by hand with a 15/16" socket and Tee Bar on the front damper pulley to make sure you are not hydrolocked.
7.75 Volts is way to low, sure sounds like you could use some new 1,000 CCA batteries. I had batteries load tested before and was told the battery was good when really it was bad.
How old is the starter motor?
If the motor turns over freely by hand and you got new cables and terminals, and the starter engages, your problem is either with the starter or the batteries.
I would do the batteries first, if it does not help, replace the starter motor. How old are your batteries?
Seb.....
7.75 Volts is way to low, sure sounds like you could use some new 1,000 CCA batteries. I had batteries load tested before and was told the battery was good when really it was bad.
How old is the starter motor?
If the motor turns over freely by hand and you got new cables and terminals, and the starter engages, your problem is either with the starter or the batteries.
I would do the batteries first, if it does not help, replace the starter motor. How old are your batteries?
Seb.....
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Hamberger, Starter is brand new from napa, I had it tested as well its good, I am going to put a new waterpump tonight and install mew batteries as well I hope that works.
Dieself250, I let it do its cycle and then try to start, I have tries to see if there was a difference by not waiting and there is not.
Sailors30, I put brand new cables (ALL) and wire brushed the block and the batteries to ensure a good conection.
Thanks for the advice I will try the batteries and see what happens. If anyone elso has any more ideas feel free to let me know.
Thanks
Dieself250, I let it do its cycle and then try to start, I have tries to see if there was a difference by not waiting and there is not.
Sailors30, I put brand new cables (ALL) and wire brushed the block and the batteries to ensure a good conection.
Thanks for the advice I will try the batteries and see what happens. If anyone elso has any more ideas feel free to let me know.
Thanks
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Hamberger, (or anyone else that knowes the answer)
How would you go about fixing it if it were hydrolocked? What would this involve checking, (I have a 7.3 diesel I can't get the flexplate to budge.
also, once I get the engine to start, the truck drives perfect (except the water pump leaks, I am changing that tonight). could this still be the hydrolocked problem?
How would you go about fixing it if it were hydrolocked? What would this involve checking, (I have a 7.3 diesel I can't get the flexplate to budge.
also, once I get the engine to start, the truck drives perfect (except the water pump leaks, I am changing that tonight). could this still be the hydrolocked problem?
Last edited by BIGRIG1993; Sep 8, 2006 at 09:26 AM.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,561
Likes: 5,596
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
if you were hydrolocked, you would know it. you would have coolant out of the exhaust, and be loosing coolant with no visable leak showing.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Tjc Transport,
I have a lot of water leaking from the water pump, I will have to check the oil when I get home tonight.
I have a lot of water leaking from the water pump, I will have to check the oil when I get home tonight.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,561
Likes: 5,596
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
well, i don't think you have a hydro-lock problem, cause you say it drives perfect once started. if you had enough cavitation to cause a hydro-lock condition, you would have a noticeable miss, and no power. you would also have a surge in the coolant system that would pump the coolant out of the radiator cap opening, and exhaust pipe when running.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
There doesn't seem to be any water in the oil, there is way more oil then there should be. The truck started last saturday and I drove it all day without a single problem. (I had to fill the radiator in the morning) then sunday i started it in the morning just fine, and a couple hours later it wouldn't start and its been sitting since.
could the water pump be causing the water to go elswere (fuel?) or in any other compartment?
could the water pump be causing the water to go elswere (fuel?) or in any other compartment?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Bigrig1993,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
I would pull the drain plug in the oil pan.
If water comes out before the oil drains out, you have a problem that could be one of several.
Unless it was overfilled with oil, you are getting fuel or water in the oil.
Neither one is good, but water would be the worst.
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
I would pull the drain plug in the oil pan.
If water comes out before the oil drains out, you have a problem that could be one of several.
Unless it was overfilled with oil, you are getting fuel or water in the oil.
Neither one is good, but water would be the worst.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Dave Sponaugle & Hamberger,
I pulled the plug ang got 1.5 GALLONS of water. WOW. I am guessing that this can be as small as a partal head gasket to a complete rebuild, depending on where the water is coming in from. is it possable to that much water from the head gaskets? (keeping in mind that when the truck ran it drove fine, a little slow but it drove) I can replace the head gaskets myself but I just don't want to replace them and still have problems. I am concerned that the motor may be cracked and leaking water into the motor. that I am going to have someone else do.
am I even on the right page? or am I missing something?
also, I drained all the oil out and opened the cap to let all the moisture out.
I pulled the plug ang got 1.5 GALLONS of water. WOW. I am guessing that this can be as small as a partal head gasket to a complete rebuild, depending on where the water is coming in from. is it possable to that much water from the head gaskets? (keeping in mind that when the truck ran it drove fine, a little slow but it drove) I can replace the head gaskets myself but I just don't want to replace them and still have problems. I am concerned that the motor may be cracked and leaking water into the motor. that I am going to have someone else do.
am I even on the right page? or am I missing something?
also, I drained all the oil out and opened the cap to let all the moisture out.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I have seen this before.
The plate the water pump bolts up against may have a hole in it.
This lets coolant go into the timing gear cavity which then drains into the oil pan.
There are also some gaskets that could cause this.
There are 4 bolts in the water pump that must have thread sealant on them since they thread into the timing gear cover plate.
To test the head gaskets and cavitation, fill the radiator with water.
Make an adapter that threads into the glow plug hole so you can apply shop air pressure to each cylinder.
The air pressure will rotate the engine to BDC for each cylinder, so watch you don't get in the way of rotating parts when you do this.
When you see bubbles or water overflowing from the radiator, you have found the offending cylinder.
During tear down you now know exactly where to concentrate your inspection of the head gaskets and cylinder walls.
The plate the water pump bolts up against may have a hole in it.
This lets coolant go into the timing gear cavity which then drains into the oil pan.
There are also some gaskets that could cause this.
There are 4 bolts in the water pump that must have thread sealant on them since they thread into the timing gear cover plate.
To test the head gaskets and cavitation, fill the radiator with water.
Make an adapter that threads into the glow plug hole so you can apply shop air pressure to each cylinder.
The air pressure will rotate the engine to BDC for each cylinder, so watch you don't get in the way of rotating parts when you do this.
When you see bubbles or water overflowing from the radiator, you have found the offending cylinder.
During tear down you now know exactly where to concentrate your inspection of the head gaskets and cylinder walls.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 3
From: Ladner, British Columbia
Just got back to my computer. Sorry for not getting back earlier.
The water in the oil is bad and I would follow thru on Dave Sponagles suggestions.
It is possible that the plate at the back of the water pump either rusted thru or wore with the impeller due to a worn bearing. I think you should check it first. The unfortunate part is that this still would not fully explain the hard starting. I say not fully explain in that if you have that much water in the oil it would get into the bearing and could make them bind on starting as water is not a very good lubricant.
Check for bubbles at the radiator cap as Dave mentioned. This would be a possible indication of cavitation. You could also do a prolonged pressure test on the coolant system. Water would leak thru any pin holes into the problem cylinder.
Best of luck, from the sounds of it you might need it,
Seb......
The water in the oil is bad and I would follow thru on Dave Sponagles suggestions.
It is possible that the plate at the back of the water pump either rusted thru or wore with the impeller due to a worn bearing. I think you should check it first. The unfortunate part is that this still would not fully explain the hard starting. I say not fully explain in that if you have that much water in the oil it would get into the bearing and could make them bind on starting as water is not a very good lubricant.
Check for bubbles at the radiator cap as Dave mentioned. This would be a possible indication of cavitation. You could also do a prolonged pressure test on the coolant system. Water would leak thru any pin holes into the problem cylinder.
Best of luck, from the sounds of it you might need it,
Seb......